You can find them with 4:10's and limited slip pretty easy too.

 

Save up your money and get a new set of G2 D44 from any of the online catalog stores. 4wd.com has em in the $2600 price range per axle, not including shipping. Should be around 6k for both with shipping and the axles will be the right width and bolt pattern with a warenty and available parts. And the front will bolt up and rear only needs spring perches.

 

$6K is a bit much for me...

Or you could also get a ford 9" and either get mosser 6 lug shafts or get 5 lug knuckles for the D44 to match the front.

But you can also convert the 8.8 to 5x5.5 with shafts/redrilling. or use adapters. the options are endless really. I would get the axles of choice and hten hammer out the details.

Any ideas on which front axle your going to use? Ford HP and narrow it? full width? or waggy?

 

$2k per axle? get a 60 front and sterling rear. most junkyards they are not that expensive and can be cut down pretty cheap as well. a stock D60 is stronger than an averagely built up D44.

 

Bit to swap in tons it's more than just gettin the axle in there it's alot of work. Frame stiffeners steering up grades really need todo hyd assist if he wants any chance and really have good steering off road. Which mean pump and steering box upgrades you also will have to have drive shafts made. You will prolly have to spend another 2k in addition to 2k per axle just to swap them in and do it right.

 

$100 front axle
$125 rear axle
$250 to make the axle the width, make mounts
$50-100 for the machine work on the long shaft
$100 for the rear to redo mounts and cut a side down
$60 for the extra passenger shaft for a sterling
$100-150 poor mans hydro assist
$100 other steering parts
$130 front gears
$230 rear gears
$135 frame stiffeners
welding rods for lockers

were is the $6000 your quoting? i am kinda doing the swap on my truck.

 

You get your axles a lot cheaper than I get mine. A high pinion D/60 for 100 bucks, last one I seen was 800.

 

$92.xx with tax local upullit had it.

 

Looks small for a D/60, almost D/44 sized tubes, like I said don't find them that cheap where I live.

 

they were thicker around than a 31 spline 8.8 its a D60 according to BOM and huge pumpkin helps ID'ing it. tube size could just be the angle and crappy cell phone pic. thats a D30 in the background for reference.



next to a small bike pumpkins bigger than its tire

 

Good luck with it. The driver side tube is tiny and means you'll have to move your spring buckets up about 3". You can grind a decent bit of the cast spring perch off but then you chance weakining the chunk/tube joint. That's why the 78-79 versions are worth so much more. I personally don't care for the ball joint versions either. Still that's a great price.

 

ballistix has a kit for grinding them down. not a big deal to me especially since its going on a ranger and will be left full width with heavy backspacing. as for balljoint vs kingpin plenty of opinions on that one and as long as they function i could care less. the truck this got pulled from was a year off 92 instead of a 91

 

Idk where Ur gettin Ur prices from but u can't touch a high pinion 60 for under 1000 - 1200 here in Texas and that is just pulled outta a truck not rebuilt ready togo... And like I said to do it right to where is dependable and drivable on the street is not cheap the throw it together just to trash offroad is different this he said he is looking to spend no more than 2k per axle I assume he is looking to drive It on the street there for he isn't gonna want to cut corners and such can't weld the diffs stuff like that... I agree it can be done on the cheap but u can't do it on the cheap and have a dependable daily driver and weekend warrior. Unfortunately u can't have Ur cake and eat it to...

 

dont know were in texas you looked but between witchita falls and houston i found several when i lived there. if you get the front axle at a good price then the whole price thing is fine for the price he is looking to spend. $4K is plenty to build a jeep with a D60 front and sterling rear reliably with quality parts. that being said it can cost an arm and a leg if you are one of those everything has to be an off the shelf product.

 

I live down in houston. And I'm def not one of those people that has to have name brand off the shelf products but I think a 60 is over kill anyway I build and do all my own stuff as much as I can and am capable of! But honestly these uni body cherokees have to get beefed up alot to handle that much axle and tire... A factory power steering pump and box just won't cut it I have a welded dana 30 with 4.10 and 33s on my trail rig and I go thru power steering pumps like babys thru diapers. I agreeing with what your say for a trail rig you can go cheap and cut corners. But you have to take more care and invest more time and money to not only make I safe but also make it dependable... I'm not arguing or callin u a liar or anything there is just a higher standard to make something safe streetable and dependable for the road then something that is just gonna see dirt rock and mud and never gonna have to cruz at 70 or 80 down the road.