TJkiller98

Okay so here's the deal im trying to decide what axles to swap into my xj. Im currently running 35s on stock axles ( hp dana 30 front 8.25 rear). Im planning on going to a 37 inch tire and I know these axles will no hold up to them. Im trying to keep this fairly cheap, about 2000 per axle. I was thinking of doing a ford 8.8 in the rear and a dana 44 in the front. Properly built should these axles hold up to 37s with gears and lockers or should I be looking more into 1ton axles? I know more then tire size plays roll in picking the right axle but its a stock xj as far a drivelines concerned so you guys should know what im dealing with. Thanks!

btm24

If you want pure beef but full sized axle HP ford Dana 44 and a rear 9" would be wonders.

Or you could do a ford HP 44 front and cut it down to size then a ford 8.8 out back. That just makes you work for one axle.

And the last is where you could spend less $ and keep your axles. Get better gear ratios I would say at least 4:88 if the Dana 30 can fit it. Chromaly axle shafts, beefy u joint and a truss could do wonders. If you do the same out back I think you'l be fine.

What type of wheeling are you doing any ways?

Brandon

TJkiller98

I thought about keeping my stock axles and building them but I feel like 37s might be to much for them no?

The wheeling I do is mostly rock crawling and trial rides. I do like to push my jeep though to find its limits. Im not hard on it though I wheel with common sense. Ill try something once or twice and if I can't do it I don't keep trying until something brakes. My jeep is also my daily driver so I kinda need it in working order. Haha

TJkiller98

Also id like to keep the axles about the same width as the stock ones without having to shorten new axles. I know the 8.8 is close and if I could find a rubicon 44 out of a tj (haha) it would bolt right in.

btm24

Please don't go with a TJ Dana 44 it's a Wana be 44... It's like a half beefed up Dana 30 but cost 10 times to much. You can find a cheep ford HP Dana 44 and build it to your needs and cut it down to the size you need. And you can do that for about the same cost and get a much better axle then the TJ 44. Just in case I would while your cutting it down to size beef it up just like you could with the Dana 30. It's going to cost you some $ but you will almost never brake it. Do the same with the rear (I would use a ford 8.8 because it's going to take less work to put in and you can find parts easier)

If your going to do alot of rock crawling then don't keep what you have now. I'm not to sure on how good the 8.25 is but I would replace it any ways. Rock crawling puts ALOT of stress on every thing.

Hope I helped, now I have to get back to class the professor is giving me the evil eye...

Brandon

ThE_CaPtaIn

How come alot of people don't suggest the front Wagoneer Dana 44?? There a dime a dozen? And the proper width.

btm24

Well right now I'm in my math class and the professor hates me being on my phone so I can only say a few things about it. They are low pinion, dime a dozen sure but costly VERY COSTLY, and expensive to get parts for.

Brandon

Gorillaxj

How is it costly? D44 parts are SUPER cheap... I would agree that the waggy axle swap is a good option, but built 37-38 is maxed out. If you are interested in the waggy setup I have lots of details about the swap in my build thread.

If you are planning on 37's+ I would jump to a D60 Front, and a D60,14BFF,Sterling for the rear.

A 35-36 will be my max tire size. so D44's are a good choice and can handle it with alloy shafts no problem, but pushing the 37+ I would just go with D60's now...

I swapped F+R D44's locked and regeared, LA's, rebuilt them and installed for roughly $2k tottal. Did all the work myself which helped a lot on cost.

ThE_CaPtaIn

It all depends on how u wheel. I know people say u have to jar 1 tons for anything over 35s but I have built several rigs. And done alot of Wheelin and been to many and in a bunch of crawling competitions. And u will be surprised how well a good built axle will hold up without having to go with one tons. And b4 ev1 rags on me. Don't get me wrong I have seen people that can break a built Dana 60 only runnin 35s. Alot plays into axle choice besides tire size. My cj has built factory axles with 4.10 lockers chromoly shafts and holds up to a 500hp sbc on 35s and it dosent get babied in the least bit. But if I could go back and do it again I wouldn't put all that money in those axles I would upgrade. So what I'm sayin is the amount of work to swap in one tons and do it right in a Cherokee to me isn't worth the work when there are good axle choices that will hold up fine and be much less money and work to swap in and get the same results. Just my .02

TJkiller98

Thanks for all the help so far. I think im gonna do an 8.8 in the rear with c clip eliminater chromoly shafts and a truss with and auto locker. Anyone have anything they would change or do different with that?

Now for the front axle if I were to do a ford hp 44 and cut it down to the width can I get shorter shafts or would I have to cut the shafts and have them resplined? Also what did they come in and are they driverside drop? Will I have to change the spindle inorder to get the correct lug pattern? I feel like this option may be more trouble then its worth.

As far as the wagoneer 44 I've have you to find one close to me on craigslist of in a junkyard. Plus I always thought they were a full width axle?

xjmarc

Some waggys are full width but the ones with a driver drop are not. They come in 6 lug but can be swapped to the ford or IH 5x5.5 bolt pattern. You won't find one with the small jeep pattern except the Rubi 44 which is junk. Unless you're set on an 8.8 you can get a rear 44 out of a Rodeo with disc, no c-clips and the same 6 lug pattern as the waggy front. Both these axles are about an inch wider than stock. The waggy will need to be geared since they come with really high gears, like 2.70 something, but the rodeo can be found with 4.10s and lower stock.

btm24

I think but am un sure that the Rodeo Dana 44 is a danna 44A which means it's a crap axle. But that's only if I am right.

Brandon

Gorillaxj

"Other pluses are disc brakes complete with mini-drum parking brakes and larger-diameter axletubes (2 3/4 inches as opposed to 2 1/2 inches for TJ Dana 30s, 35s, 44s, including the Rubicon's Dana 44s)"



taken from
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...#ixzz1W0mI8GQs

btm24

Thank you very much for giving me that information, very helpfull. Now that I know, dose any body know if they all came with Dana 44's in the Rodeos within the years given?

I'm sorry for the hi jack tho but I think this might help the OP with his question.

Brandon

TJkiller98

Im not sure if they did come in all of them but I think im gonna stick with the 8.8 for rear. I've researched the 2 and from every thing I've read the 88 is a stronger axle. The 44 is close but with the availability of the 8.8 so hight I think that what im gonna go with. I just found one on craigslist for 150 obo so I know I can find them cheap