so you can stick out your hands and scream like riding a roller coaster.
engine brakeing is nice in a manual but doesnt mean you should skimp on actually upgrading your braking system.

 

braking control. all you have to do is pull back on the shifter and it pops right into drive again. I feel much more in control in neutral and letting it come down on it's own than be standing on the brake pedal fighting it

 

I'd prefer a manual over an auto anyway. But it's easier to find an auto Cherokee fir cheap. Only reason I have mine

 

and effective ways to increase braking power on stock axles short of an $800 WJ swap would be?...

 

I can swap an 8.8 in for far less than $800, and have rear disks which are a huge improvement, and a much better axle. Stock front brakes are fine imo, I can lock down my 33's up front, my rear drums don't do much.

 

Slotted rotors, read discs...dual diaphragm booster..
Plenty of ways on stock axles

 

scary scary scary. a TC lockup switch wired up makes engine braking just as good as a stick. 1-2 with the convertor locked works great. and the only reason youd be heating up brakes is because theyre undersized (protip: 33s are larger on stock brakes is too much for them)

 

Yes its much easier on your brakes and foot for certain. IF you have an atlas........well maybe not.

But for us poe folk neutral is better.

I used to stand on the brake in gear for the longest time. Figured out how much easier neutral is and thats all I do on steep sections.

 

I've seen it all done. the only thing I've heard of making any significant difference is the WJ brakes. guess you and me both will just have to try some stuff out and see for ourselves

I've never really seen this as scary or dangerous. whats so bad about it? I click in and out of drive all the way down the hill. I guess it's just that one time where I fail to engage drive when I need it most huh

 

NO different than trying insanely steep high walls and just as the truck is about to get light drop it in reverse to pull it down quicker.

Actually clicking it in drive or even low going down hill is much easier than this.

 

yeah. but sadly, to agree with what caveman is saying, not everyone is up for an $800 axle swap. and the front brakes aren't fine for 35's. I don't like it


all I know is that with the teeter totter down hill situations I've been in on rocks I feel much more comfortable clicking into neutral for a second so I'm not fighting my jeep while I'm trying to reposition. is it safe to do this? consensus says apparently not

 

honestly ive seen alot of stuff done but yes there isnt always a cheap way to do it I was saying that not dealing with the brakes while upgrading tire size and such is asking for issues. I upgraded rotors and brake pad compound to increase grip it works for me i kill rotor fast but hey its a trade off for knowing i can stop. I also engine brake my jeep i was just presenting the fact that it does increase the wear and tare on the drive train.

these things come with wheeling experance they do work but not everyone one should try them do to skill level. heck I drift my lifted jeep on 35's. stupid yes but i know how she handles. its going to bite me sooner or later. the Torque converter lock switch is a great upgrade for any aw4 wheeler changes the way the jeep feels. allows you control it better.

 

yep I'm all over this one too lol. felt a rear tire lift up once. can you say oh ****

 

worst one i had was a switch back mid rally jeep unloaded and i had to jsut spin the jeep to kill the drift or i was going into the ditch

 

FWIW, I'm only looking at spending $250-300 tops to swap a 31 spline disk brake 8.8 into my XJ. It helps that I won't have to regear the 8.8 though, found one in Pull a Part with 4.10's and LSD.