There is no way I could believe the weld on either end would fail, and as far as them being fully adjustable is a huge plus. Almost all my heeps sag worse on one side then the other. Most aren't that bad but I have seen some that are pretty bad. I wasn't actually going to buy them either. Have the idea in my head some visual to make my own.

 

Not a good idea to have different sized shackles. Maybe a slight difference but eh to each his own to find out. And its not the weld I'm worried about, its the lack of any bracing on the part that connects to the leaf spring. Plus having a jamb nut worries me alot. Anyone not bright enough to constantly check the tightness of that nut will face the issue of shearing threads. That's alot of force on those threads. But again, to each his own

 

In a previous discussion regarding Core4x4 using nuts welded onto pipe, bushings, all-thread. I recall a welder mentioning there is a strength issue with welding onto hardened steel. IDK, need a metallurgist, where is XJwonders..

I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html

Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.

 

Design just looks shady too me. Idk, I would inspect them personally if someone handed em to me, but I wouldn't chance buying em

 

I ran some for over a year with no issues.

 

you could always tack weld the jamb nut once its all adjusted up. i guess no one has ran them or anything similar, i see the ebay listing has sold quite a few

 

They do not look safe as many of us have told you. However if you're not going to listen, just buy them and be the Guinea pig.

 

**** if i knew my thread was gunna get flamed so bad i wouldnt of even asked. i was mostly asking people who HAVE used these or an adjustable kind like these. also, when control arms are made they still have a threaded sleeve thats welded into the tube? what is the difference there? once you weld the heat is still going to affect the threads

 

Usually control arms have a solid tube welded directly onto bushing housing, not a nut welded to bushing then all-thread welded into nut. The joint at opposite end that threads into arm is often a forged part, no welds.

It is not the threads becoming distorted that is the issue, it has more to do with the dissimilar metals and using a hardened nut for that purpose.
Sorry you feel flamed, not my intent.

 

Welding a nut to something that ll be used on suspension is retarded. Welding a threaded bushing to DOM tubing is acceptable.

 

you got it, my friend. A nut welded to a bushing housing doesn't have sufficient depth of thread engagement. Especially in high tensile/compression situations, ie. Leaf packs.

A threaded bushing or a DOM tubing that was threaded is deeper and much more stronger.

 

I've been running them since the beginning of summer with no issues, I've only wheeled them a few trips and a couple thousand road miles though.

 

that bolt is probably 1 inch or larger thats welded to that bushing. do you know how thick the nut is for that? dont bull**** me about thread engagement. i dont even need to bring up the tensile strength of a bolt that big. even AFTER you weld on it its still STRONG.

 

Welding a nut is doing it cheap. I wouldn't trust a company who do that.

 

Just let it go. At this time just smile and wave. He's made his decision. Were just lying to him I guess.