Anyone running these shackles?
#16
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Year: 1994
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Yup. I agree with this. Just get the proper sized shackles. It's not like you're going to be able to run separate height on each side. And 5" of lift via shackle. See how tiny that U portion looks. And don't get me started about a jamb nut. That nut loosens even the slightest bit, the pressure can shear those threads and its bye bye shackles.
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Year: 2001
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There is no way I could believe the weld on either end would fail, and as far as them being fully adjustable is a huge plus. Almost all my heeps sag worse on one side then the other. Most aren't that bad but I have seen some that are pretty bad. I wasn't actually going to buy them either. Have the idea in my head some visual to make my own.
#18
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In a previous discussion regarding Core4x4 using nuts welded onto pipe, bushings, all-thread. I recall a welder mentioning there is a strength issue with welding onto hardened steel. IDK, need a metallurgist, where is XJwonders..
I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
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Year: 2001
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Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
In a previous discussion regarding Core4x4 using nuts welded onto pipe, bushings, all-thread. I recall a welder mentioning there is a strength issue with welding onto hardened steel. IDK, need a metallurgist, where is XJwonders..
I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
#21
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Not a good idea to have different sized shackles. Maybe a slight difference but eh to each his own to find out. And its not the weld I'm worried about, its the lack of any bracing on the part that connects to the leaf spring. Plus having a jamb nut worries me alot. Anyone not bright enough to constantly check the tightness of that nut will face the issue of shearing threads. That's alot of force on those threads. But again, to each his own
#22
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Anyone running these shackles?
They do not look safe as many of us have told you. However if you're not going to listen, just buy them and be the Guinea pig.
#23
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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In a previous discussion regarding Core4x4 using nuts welded onto pipe, bushings, all-thread. I recall a welder mentioning there is a strength issue with welding onto hardened steel. IDK, need a metallurgist, where is XJwonders..
I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
I only remove the one bolt when adjusting my shackles.
Take a look at these; http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/RLS.html
Correct, and then the elbow in them reverses or inverts. They may have fixed that by now however.
**** if i knew my thread was gunna get flamed so bad i wouldnt of even asked. i was mostly asking people who HAVE used these or an adjustable kind like these. also, when control arms are made they still have a threaded sleeve thats welded into the tube? what is the difference there? once you weld the heat is still going to affect the threads
#24
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Usually control arms have a solid tube welded directly onto bushing housing, not a nut welded to bushing then all-thread welded into nut. The joint at opposite end that threads into arm is often a forged part, no welds.
It is not the threads becoming distorted that is the issue, it has more to do with the dissimilar metals and using a hardened nut for that purpose.
Sorry you feel flamed, not my intent.
It is not the threads becoming distorted that is the issue, it has more to do with the dissimilar metals and using a hardened nut for that purpose.
Sorry you feel flamed, not my intent.
#26
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
Usually control arms have a solid tube welded directly onto bushing housing, not a nut welded to bushing then all-thread welded into nut. The joint at opposite end that threads into arm is often a forged part, no welds. It is not the threads becoming distorted that is the issue, it has more to do with the dissimilar metals and using a hardened nut for that purpose. Sorry you feel flamed, not my intent.
A threaded bushing or a DOM tubing that was threaded is deeper and much more stronger.
#27
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I've been running them since the beginning of summer with no issues, I've only wheeled them a few trips and a couple thousand road miles though.
#28
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that bolt is probably 1 inch or larger thats welded to that bushing. do you know how thick the nut is for that? dont bull**** me about thread engagement. i dont even need to bring up the tensile strength of a bolt that big. even AFTER you weld on it its still STRONG.