macgyver35

It's time...
I've had a brand new RC 4.5" X-Series lift sitting in the garage for a year. I also have control arm drop brackets and a dropped Pitman arm. I also have a Rigged Ridge SYE I bought from Serious Offroad.

I plan on doing the lift this weekend, and then next week getting 31 x 10.5/15 Toyo Open Country ATII's. I'm also going to have a set of Alloy USA 4.10 gears installed in the axles. Except for the gear work, I plan on doing everything else myself.

I'm hoping to install the slip yoke eliminator kit on there without having to take the t-case out of the Jeep. Just split the case and remove the rear half. I remember seeing a video of this done once, but now I can't find it. Bleepinjeep has a good video of an SYE install with the case completely out, but for whatever reason, his installation seems more involved than I would have expected.

If anyone has any advice on how to go about this or things to watch out for, I'd appreciate it.

Cherospeed99

I just did my sye. A few months ago and although I didn't try to do it in the vehicle I would say its worth pulling it out....it's only a few extra bolts and it's light enough to take out with one person....Just my two cents though

XJwonders

It's much easier to pull the t case out and do it on the bench. But if u are still adamant on doing it on the jeep, just make sure to not let the internals fall out while splitting the case.

And when you install the sye, don't fill the t case with fluid and immediately drive. You gotta wait at least 24 hours for the RTV to cure fully before adding fluid in. Just my 2 cents.

info@digital802.com

I have done it both on and off the vehicle. The amount of time you save by taking it off is well worth it alone. If it isn't worth it to you, consider the fact you want to clean the case, check for wear and debris and get a good seal...all easier with gravity in your control, vs. working from one position. The reason I changed it on the first vehicle I did the SYE on, was because I was afraid of the usual complications with dealing with dirt, rust and my ability to over tighten or strip bolts.

Take your time, do it the right way. Remember the instruction by the company were designed with intention. Cheers!

SatiricalHen

I did mine in the jeep not hard in my opinion. Just make sure you have a good set of lock ring pliers and snap ring pliers. And make sure you do everything in the right order and everything.

SatiricalHen

I used the right stuff sealant. It's amazing only have to wait 1 minute before refilling.

Rogue4x4

I did mine in-vehicle, but disclaimer: I had access to a lift at the time. So, it was a tad easier to deal with. I wouldn't want to do it with it on the ground. Just pull the T-case and do it on the bench, IMO

XJwonders

never heard of it. Where do you get it

SatiricalHen

They had it at an oreillys around here but only in the pressurized can form (which is the easiest but most expensive form) but I prefer the caulk tube for which is what I get and I got it off of amazon. The best place to buy everything.

aka"dude"

I did mine in jeep but on a lift. Really wasnt bad. just make sure you have the right tools and a very clean work area and go for it. I would not do this job in a driveway or even worse on dirt. Keep it clean take your time and be orderly. I probably watched this video a half a dozen times before I gave it a shot.

ehall

I've done them on and off the vehicle, much faster to keep the tcase installed since you don't have to lower the transmission to get to the upper bolts or mess with the linkage bushings. The only reason to pull the tcase is because you want to do a full rebuild.

Fred/N0AZZ

My RR SYE that I bought on special for $99 if you guys remember when the guy posted about them here 5 mo. before I used them anyway.....They were installed in the XJ by my 4x4 Shop who also installed a new chain and gear, he had a lift but charged me $200 to do it.


Just a question with 4 1/2" of lift are you sure you want a 4.10 gear?? After you install 31" tires for a while you may very well change your mind in favor of at least 33's or 35's like I now run and a 4.56 is marginal at the least but still works where a 4.10 would not. Mine with a 3" lift and 31's with trimmed fenders looked small in fact switched to 33's then.


Here is mine on just the 33's with the 4 1/2" of lift.

macgyver35

@Fred. I have factory flares. And I have a few reasons for sticking with 31's.

• This is my daily driver, and spends 98% of it's time on pavement.
• I like the look of my factory Ravine wheels, which are 15's, and larger tire options for 15 inch wheels are becoming limited. The largest 15" Toyo Open Country ATII is the 31 x 10.5.
• I want to be able to keep the spare in the back factory location (will require some slight modding). I don't want it on the roof, and as much as I think the new JCR rear tire carrier is awesome as all get out and I love the look of it... It pretty well guarantees you have no rear viability, And with the high percentage of tailgating a-holes we have in Dallas, I need to see who is behind me.

Whiplash

i did mine in an hour while the t-case was still in the jeep... 6.5" lift
best bits of advice i can give would be:

pull the cross member and support the tranny with a jack, the slack comes in handy
keep an eye on the oil tubing on re-install
keep an eye on how the speedo is clocked

SatiricalHen

I guess mine might have been a little easier because when I did it I had my tcase drop on then after installing it I took it off so I had an extra 1.25 inch of wiggle room above.