Sittinglowforever

So i was wondering, my rear leaf springs arent sagging, would it worth it to just replace my leafs with a new set, or go with an AAL Lift Kit?, most are AAL, but i see that Rough Country also offers the full leaf package, must be for a reason. I'm going for a 4.5" Lift and im going to probobly add a new steering stablizer, I will not need a SYE unless i go 6" Right? everyone has their own philosopys but i still want to hear them, anyone who has had a 4.5" lift for awhile . please leave your feedback.

if you do have a lift, post who makes it, i've been considering Rough Country and Zone Lift kits.

brookhart63

I needed an sye at 4.5. I have rubi express full packs and they work great.

Sittinglowforever

what SYE did you end up getting?

brookhart63

I purchased a HNT from dirtbound offroad for 90 bucks. I beat the s**t out of my jeep last weekend and literally had 0 drive line problems.people will tell you get a full sye brah blah blah blah. It works for me and im not easy on my jeep.

Sittinglowforever

http://www.dirtboundoffroad.com/feat...bound-offroad/ This right here?

that's what i've been considering, never wanted a Full Sye. thats alot of cash

ericfx1984

I did the Rough Country 3" AAL... (got the entire kit for only $70 used)

when I first installed the AAL, the rear sat at around 3.75"... almost 4"... after a while it settled at around 3.25" and has stayed at that height ever since...

I recently added a Rough country 1.5" shackle ($6 at the bone yard) to the rear and a home made shackle relocation box... (FREE made of scrap steel)

it rides great and flexes great too

however I plan to build a bastard pack if I ever have to do it again...


I would MUCH rather have a 3" leaf spring and a 1.5" shackle... better ride, better flex...

brookhart63

Yup thats the one. Skip the bits though they are junk. I bought a pilot and finish bit for 20. Took 45 seconds to drill after that.

Gee oh Dee

Thought you went with the $35 shakles from the parts store??

Gee oh Dee

Not to mention if you ever nuke your tcase you run the risk of needing to buy another SYE kit. If you do the HnT then you can just move it to the new output shaft.

Sittinglowforever

what is an HNT? and what you're saying is to get a full SYE?

Gee oh Dee

No, I'm saying stay away from a true SYE.

The HnT is a cheaper, less involved way if eliminating the slip yoke, although its just as strong and can be reused if your tcase breaks. Not always the case if you get a traditional SYE.

dug_543

i would definatly go with what hes saying because you dont wana buy the same part twice and a new tcase all at the same time and im pretty sure he knows what hes talkin bout

Sittinglowforever

What does HNT exactly stand for? And no worries I am taking his advice and btw thanks fir the info Gawd!

Wearingthin

Stands for hack and tap because you hack off part of the rear of the output shaft then tap it so you can bolt on the new yoke.

dug_543

Both the Hack and Tap slip yoke eliminator and the heavy duty slip yoke eliminators should suit just about everyone's needs. The advantage offered by the HD units is the increased spline count of the replacement output shaft included with the kits. The increased spline count offers more surface engagement which increases the peak torque handling capacity of the t-case so equipped. HD unit installation requires removal of the t-case and minimal disassembly of the case so as to permit RnR of the OEM output shaft with the shaft supplied with the kit. The job is not terribly difficult and can be accomplished in an afternoon. But like he said the true slip yoke you could end up buying again if your tcase does out

The HnT uses the same output shaft and therefore does not require removal of anything other than the rear d-shaft. The chief complaints concerning HnT install have to do with the quality of the taps supplied with the kits. A tap is used to thread the output shaft to recieve the bolt that will secure the new yoke to same. IMHO, these problems prolly have more to do with operator error, ie. failing properly lube and clean tap and threads during the cutting process and/or rushing the tap.

Regarding d-shafts. Some HD kits include a replacement d-shaft in the cost however I have not seen that with any of the HnT kits. You will need a new d-shaft regardless as, the lift will increase the distance between rear diff pinion yoke and the t-case output shaft, simply put you driveshaft will be too short. The amount of increase will depend upon the amount of lift and will vary with articulation of the rear suspension Increase it enough and your d-shaft could fall out and possibly damage t-case, underbody and exhaust in the process, not to mention cause you to stop moving.

Hope thats enough info haha