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I did a 2” spacer up front with 2” extended shackles in the back and 30.5 tires on 16” wheels.
the thing I’m running into now is the passenger front tire when I turn the wheel all the way to the right it rubs slightly on the lower control arm. It does not occur on the driver side and it doesn’t rub at all when turned left.
any suggestions on how to resolve this?
One good way is to get an adjustable track bar and adjust it so it measures the same on both sides, or simply follow this video which covers both adjustment of a track bar and re-centering your steering :
I did a 2” spacer up front with 2” extended shackles in the back and 30.5 tires on 16” wheels.
the thing I’m running into now is the passenger front tire when I turn the wheel all the way to the right it rubs slightly on the lower control arm. It does not occur on the driver side and it doesn’t rub at all when turned left.
any suggestions on how to resolve this?
A couple other things to consider, first is the stops on the steering, if one side is a little out of adjustment it could be allowing it to turn further to one side.
Second would be to look at the angled control arms which give a little more clearance, something like these https://www.morris4x4center.com/jks-...-jks-1650.html
There are others that are less expensive that are not adjustable also.
How do the Rubicon Express 3.5” leaf springs and Iron Rock Offroad 3.5” leaf springs compare in terms of flex, ride quality, and load handling? I’m running ZJ coils with spacers in the front and the rear is sitting pretty low even with RE full length add a leafs…and the flex is pathetic. Seriously, the flex is almost non-existent. The shocks are definitely not maxing out in either direction, and I’m hitting the bump stops pretty often.
Are the Iron Rock springs worth the extra change? I remember Rubicon Express being the best of the best circa 2005…is that not the case anymore?
I run RE 3.5” leaf springs with a 1” RE lift shackle. That’s their 4.5” rear setup. They flex well and ride good. I do carry a full size 33” spare and I would consider my XJ on the heavy side. Other than that, I wouldn’t know about load handling. I don’t tow with it.
The RE 4.5” front springs work well to. No complaints on or off-road and I haven’t experienced any sagging in 2 years of use.
I don’t have any experience with iron rock.
Hello all. Been lurking for a few weeks but can't seem to find the exact answer to my specific question. I just got my son a mint 2000 XJ (and he's stoked!). The suspension is worn out and it could use some tires. My brother was able to score me some rubicon factory take-offs from his dealership and a lift will solve the worn suspension. I want to keep him as low to the ground as possible (safer and I think it looks better), but I need to clear the 33" tires. He won't be rock crawling or slamming trails, but I don't want him to wrinkle a fender. I'm pretty sold on Old Man Emu lifts, I know I'll need adapters, and I'm not scared to cut and fold the fenders.
- What lift height do you recommend? (I was thinking 3.5"?)
- What width adapter do I need for the correct backspace for that lift? (I was thinking 1.5")
- Will I need coil spacers to level the front?
- What about bump-stops or long arms?
- Brake line length ok?
Man, If someone has already done this, please chime in and bonus points for pics. I'm not home much, I'm active duty Navy stationed in Great Lakes and only make it home on most weekends. I have to make the most of my time, I really don't want to figure this out as I go because that adds up to months for me. Thanks for this awesome website and thanks to all those who reply.
Lovely XJ - congrats! I run an OME lift. With a 1-1/2" spacer in front to replace the stock 1/2"spacer above OME coil springs, the front levels with the full OME 6 leaf pack in rear to net a 3-1/4" lift. I run 31's (actual 30.5) 245/75/r16 tires on 7"x16" rims. 33's require a 4-1/2" lift that will necessitate a new drive shaft, SYE (transfer Case), re-gearing the diffs, longer brake lines, and long arms. 285/ 70/r17's are 11.2" wide - you'd need to trim the finders regardless of the lift. You could lift it 3", trim the finders and adjust the bump stops to negate articulation and possibly get away with it - but I wouldn't suggest driving it. If it was my son, I'd return those tires and build this: About as high as I'd go with a 16 year old
Last edited by Very Red XJ; Dec 13, 2021 at 07:04 PM.
Going to take months anyway. I’d take a couple months or longer to research and price different options. What you’re wanting to do is going to take a lot more than a handful of weekends. It’s going to get expensive. If you ask different questions in separate threads or start a build thread you’ll get good responses.
First decision I would make is am I willing to re gear or not. Good luck
Btw. I bet he is stoked. My first vehicle was a 77 Toyota Corolla wagon deluxe. 😆 What was deluxe about I’m still trying to figure out.
Going to take months anyway. I’d take a couple months or longer to research and price different options. What you’re wanting to do is going to take a lot more than a handful of weekends. It’s going to get expensive. If you ask different questions in separate threads or start a build thread you’ll get good responses.
First decision I would make is am I willing to re gear or not. Good luck
Btw. I bet he is stoked. My first vehicle was a 77 Toyota Corolla wagon deluxe. 😆 What was deluxe about I’m still trying to figure out.
All true, perhaps if he could visualize what he's proposing. The stock tire is on the right - the tires he wants are on the left:
Sometimes, an image is worth a thousand words and helps to explain the thousands of dollars and many hours it takes to make it happen
1996 XJ 2 door with Rubicon Express 5.5" lift, shackle relocation brackets (regular, not the no-lift type) and 285/75r16's (actual measurement of this brand is 33.07" dia.). 16x8 KMC Hoss wheels.
1996 XJ 2 door with Rubicon Express 5.5" lift, shackle relocation brackets (regular, not the no-lift type) and 285/75r16's (actual measurement of this brand is 33.07" dia.). 16x8 KMC Hoss wheels.
Great to see a correct lift /tire proportional build posted!
I plan to run IRO leaf springs, which come in 3.5” and 5.5” flavors. I already have a Ford 8.8 installed and RE 1” lift shackles, so I’m looking at 1.5-2” of lift on top of whatever the springs give me…so roughly 5-5.5” or 7-7.5” of lift. I plan to trim the fenders as much as I can while still running flares to keep it legal (probably the cheap generic ones on eBay) and will have steel bumpers, a full size spare, a winch, and basic camping gear.
Which springs should I go with to clear 35’s? This is NOT a mall crawler, but it does need to perform DD duties. It’ll be twin locked and running the hardest trails in Moab, so it needs as much flex as possible while keeping the center of gravity low. Long arms, a front Dana 44, and subframe reinforcements will be installed too.
I plan to run IRO leaf springs, which come in 3.5” and 5.5” flavors. I already have a Ford 8.8 installed and RE 1” lift shackles, so I’m looking at 1.5-2” of lift on top of whatever the springs give me…so roughly 5-5.5” or 7-7.5” of lift. I plan to trim the fenders as much as I can while still running flares to keep it legal (probably the cheap generic ones on eBay) and will have steel bumpers, a full size spare, a winch, and basic camping gear.
Which springs should I go with to clear 35’s? This is NOT a mall crawler, but it does need to perform DD duties. It’ll be twin locked and running the hardest trails in Moab, so it needs as much flex as possible while keeping the center of gravity low. Long arms, a front Dana 44, and subframe reinforcements will be installed too.
Swapping out diffs is a great start, but most people on 35's deliver their XJ's to the trail head on a trailer. I have a friend with a 2 door JL on 35's that he drives it to trail-heads. The wider track of the wrangler makes a HUGE difference. Wheeling with articulation on difficult trails is mutually exclusive to having a low center of gravity , 33's are a better compromise, but the answers to your questions can be found here: BleepinJeep - YouTube
Swapping out diffs is a great start, but most people on 35's deliver their XJ's to the trail head on a trailer. I have a friend with a 2 door JL on 35's that he drives it to trail-heads. The wider track of the wrangler makes a HUGE difference. Wheeling with articulation on difficult trails is mutually exclusive to having a low center of gravity , 33's are a better compromise, but the answers to your questions can be found here: BleepinJeep - YouTube
Seriously? I’ve always considered 35’s to be a streetable compromise. I’ve run them on my CJ7 for years and I regularly see 37’s on the pavement around here, albeit under JL’s and JK’s and not XJ’s though.
Bleepin Jeep is awesome, but I’m not seeing anything on running 35’s with fender flares. I was hoping to get some insight from people who’ve done it. Do you run 33’s then?
Seriously? I’ve always considered 35’s to be a streetable compromise. I’ve run them on my CJ7 for years and I regularly see 37’s on the pavement around here, albeit under JL’s and JK’s and not XJ’s though.
Bleepin Jeep is awesome, but I’m not seeing anything on running 35’s with fender flares. I was hoping to get some insight from people who’ve done it. Do you run 33’s then?
I think Mat at Bleeping Jeep built an XJ with 35's a few yeas ago with ford axels that he took to the rubican trail - the best source for 35's on this site is: Jeep Cherokee Forum - View Profile: EvanM send him an e-mail as he wheels an xj on 35's
Sep 21, 2015, 02:17 PM
A adjustable track bar makes it easy
