Yep. Measure from the back of the mounting surface (the spot where the back of the wheel touches the hub when installed) to the inside edge of the wheel.

Lay the wheel face down on the ground and place something straight across the 'top' which is actually the back side. Measure in inches from that spot where the wheel mounts, to the straight object that you placed across the wheel. That's your backspacing. You want it to be between 3.5" and 4" but 4.5" may work with smaller tires

 

I have purchased a Rusty's 3" lift with leaf packs. I also purchased Rusty's 0.75" shackles and 0.75" coil spring spacers, totaling 3.75" of lift.

Here is my question. I was planning on running 31X10.50r15 BFG all terrains, but recently discovered that I can get the same tire in a 32X11.50r15. Will these fit without trimming the fenders with this lift configuration?

I am also running stock gears 3:55 and a 8.25 rear end (dana 35 front). I am planning on installing a SYE soon after lifting.



Whats everyone's thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your input and help.

Jason

 

Yes you can run them without trimming. I have a friend that runs 33's on a 3" lift but he's also crazy. 31-32 is normal on a 3" lift

 

Thanks. I found some pictures on Rusty's off road website of this set up.

 

^^^Honestly, 32's may still rub. Hard to say for sure, but I'm at 3.5" on 31's and rub at full lock. Depends on how close to a 32" tire it actually is. Most run a little bit smaller than advertised, but not all.

EDIT: I've also read that the 3" rusty's lift nets closer to 4", so with the .75" spacers and shackles, you'll probably be good.

 

32 will rub haha... I have the rustys 3 inch and a 1.5 inch spacer in the front (took off stock isolator)..... I have exactly 4 inches of lift.... With only 31s I had to add bumpstop and do minor trimming

Also you need to take into factor the wheel width and backspacing

 

Please excuse me, I'm not the most mechanically knowledged person in the world, I'm kinda learning as a I go along. My end link bushings are pretty shot and they're barely holding on at this point. I've been trying to find a new set online to replace them and hopefully help get rid of the wobble, but I can't find anything. I have a 4 inch Skyjacker lift with quick disconnect sway bar end links, my Cherokee is a 1990 four door. I keep seeing other brands popping up on websites like Quadratec and Summit, but I have no idea if they would work out, here's the package on Summit I found for reference: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...model/cherokee

Any help is appreciated, thank you.

 

I would call SkyJacker and I'm sure they'd be able to get you what you need. You keep mentioning end links, but the website you posted is end link AND sway bar bushings? Give SkyJacker a ring.

 

Back the truck up a second. A .75" shackle will not NECESSARILY net you .75" of additional lift. Shackle angle is a factor here. If your shackle is at a 45* angle, the amount of "lift" provided by an extended shackle is reduced by exactly half. Therefore, your netted lift would be an additional .375". However, if your shackle angle is straight up and down (not recommended, by the way) you will get all of that advertised lift, but your down travel will suffer tremendously.

From everything I've heard, unless you plan on doing a little minor trimming, anything over 31" tires will rub on that lift. However, every application is different...

.... because of this. You also need to check with the tire manufacturer and found out what the tire "measures to". The "advertised" diameter/width of the tire could be within 1" of the actual diameter/width. Proper bumpstop extension is also required in order to keep the tires away from the body - regardless of the lift/tire combo.

Always remember: "There is no such thing as a 'COMPLETE' lift kit"

Swaybar end links are not the cause of death wobble. You need to look at your steering links, tire balance, wheel true, and caster angle. If all of those things are proper, you can run on the street without a sway bar or even steering stabilizer for that matter, and not have death wobble.

 

I have the same Rustys 3" full leaf/coil lift and with 31" tires I still had to trim some to get full travel. Then I swapped to a 33x12:50" tire and just trimmed some more. Proper wheels are a must have also to work properly.


I now have added a 1 1/2" Boomerang Shackle and ACOS spacers for a total of 4 1/2" of lift and can clear 35x12:50's now.


It boils down to several things the higher the lift and the larger the tire, the more money it will cost in the end, the lift is the cheapest part.


As Basslicks said there is not any complete lift kits made, that's why I buy an entry level and then buy quality parts to add to it.

 

Or you could bumpstop your axles instead of trimming more

 

x2

The elements of increasing tire size are as follows:

-Bumpstop
-Trim
-Lift
-Backspace (only if combined with one of the prior)

Any single one or combination will allow increase, and in no specific order.

This of course does not include the additional elements needed for lifted or LCOG setup.

 

Warning, long post. '93 2.5L AX-5 here. Currently running 235's.

My XJ's original factory suspension is shot. I'm looking to do a suspension overhaul, and since I'm going to be tearing everything apart anyway I figured I might as well give the heep a baby lift. Here's the thing: I currently do not have any plans to go up in tire size. My reasons for this are two-fold: 1) MPG. I go on a lot of road trips and I'm currently getting 21/22 mpg on the highway. I'm happy with that and don't want a drastic change. 2) The 2.5L. I know it wouldn't make a difference off-road, but I'm concerned about the stress that a big lift and tires would put on the 4 Banger for prolonged periods on the highway. I don't trailer my rig, I bought my Jeep to drive it.

Now after reading that, some of you might ask "Why do you want to lift it at all then? What's the point?" My answer: Flex. I'm thinking that a lift of 2" to 2.5" would give me a good amount of flex with my 235's without hitting my MPG much. I don't want to do a BB, because again my suspension is shot and needs to be replaced.

Here is the setup I am considering for the rear:

Crown Automotive 4886186AA Leaf Spring Assembly
This should provide 1" to 1.75"

XJ Adjustable Boomerang Lift Shackle
1" to 1.5"

Bilstein 5100s

For the front I would obviously run the Bilsteins as well. For coils, I have decided that I want a full spring and not a spring/spacer combo. I can't decide between Rusty's 2" or Rancho 2.5". The Rusty's supposedly has a spring rate of 150 lbs/inch while the Rancho's allegedly have a spring rate of 235 lbs/inch (here's my source for these numbers). With everything I am looking at, which would be better for my needs? I am currently running stock bumpers, but I do want to eventually get a winch. (I am torn there too between running a removable hitch-mounted-winch or using the Detours Backbone)

What front coils would work better for my 4 Banger? Any thoughts on the rest of my setup? Anything I've missed or got wrong? I've never lifted a vehicle before but I have attempted to do my homework. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.

 

To be completely honest, you're overthinking much of this. I'm guilty of that, too.

Most manufacturers' coil spring rates aren't what they say on paper. I question whether some even have sufficient quality control in place to make their own coils match each other. As for the I4 vs I6, I don't think it matters. I've never seen a company sell unique coils based on that factor.

At 2", there isn't much to it. New leafs, new coils, new shocks. If you want the best ride, look at Old Man Emu and pair it with good shocks. Any parts of lower quality than that, you probably won't feel a difference at that height aside from the placebo effect.

Shocks will definitely make the biggest difference with a 2" lift, and I wouldn't lose sleep over which springs you buy.

 

My wife said the same thing. Stop validating her! LOL!

I've looked into OME and I love the idea, just not the price. I guess I was afraid that the Rancho coils would be too stiff. I'm not afraid of a Jeep riding like a Jeep, but I don't want it riding like one of those old diesel pickups that seem like they give you whiplash just driving around the block. I'm sure you're right though and springs are springs, I should just pick one and be done with it.

Edit: Still overthinking it, I know, but the whole reason I've been looking at the Rancho coils is because they are the only 2.5" ones I've found. I'd prefer to avoid using a spacer if I can.