It is a simple adjustment to center steering wheel and will not effect other parts of steering.
On drag-link at pitman arm is an adjustment collar. Loosen both bolts and turn. Helps to have someone watch the steering wheel to know which way to turn the collar. Re-tighten.

 

What is the difference between shackles and stock leaf springs vs lifted packs? Benefits of each?

 

Okay, I just bought this XJ and was told it had a 3.5" lift but the current owner wasn't the installer and really didn't know anything about it. It's a 98 Classic with 142k on it.

It rides as if it has no suspension at all.

The rear is a full leaf pack with what I think are the original stock shocks. Still has the sway bar on.

The front looks like the lift only consisted of the coils, control arms and trackbar. Again it looks like the original shocks.

Does this look like a Rubicon Express lift? It seems their parts are this color gray. If they used the stock shocks would that explain the horrible ride? I just bought some almost new JK shocks I am going to put on this week.

Also the tires (31x10.5) rub the control arms. Not sure if I want to go to new wheels or smaller tires.

This is going to be 95% DD 5% easy wheeling. So I would like to improve the ride, have a small functional lift but have a decent commuting vehicle.

Does this look like an RE lift?

 

RE would have silver coils, and their special "rebound clips" on the leaf springs. If you look up pictures of an RE leaf pack, you'll see the bar above the top leaf near the front. If that isn't there, it ain't RE. Doesn't look like it from the coil in that pic. The sway bar links should've been replaced with longer ones. Rear sway bar shouldn't be connected after lifting cause the geometry is wrong.

JK shocks will still give you a rough ride, but it's a controlled ride. I liked mine on a 3.5" lift, and I couldn't beat the $40 I paid for them.

EDIT: Those shocks look like they may be factory. If they are, you effectively have no suspension, like you said. Better pics of shocks and leaf springs?

 

Thanks, I will get better pics tomorrow.

The JK shocks I bought were off a 2010 and taken off 6 months after purchase. I paid $50 for the set locally. They will do for now until I get other things sorted out

So RE coils are silver, not gray?

 

They are silver, but I can't really identify yours due to the glare/flash. I thought the coils were white when I looked at it on my phone. Even if it is RE, your ride will be terrible with those shocks and with the sway bars attached the way they are. Having those components attached without the appropriate adjustments will keep your suspension compressed all the time, wearing out the springs faster and killing your ride quality.

I'd start by removing the rear sway bar. It doesn't make a noticeable difference, and the majority of Cherokees were sold without them. Furthermore, the geometry is wrong on a lifted Jeep, and it becomes a problem.

Next, look for extended sway bar links for the front. The sway bar should be parallel to the ground where it attaches to those links, and yours is being pulled downward due to the factory length links.

The biggest problem I can see is your shocks. Assuming they're original, they aren't allowing your Jeep to sit at it's natural (lifted) height. You have that one under control, though. The only issue with using JK shocks is that you'll need to press out the bar pins and reuse them. It isn't a big deal, and a bench vice will easily handle it.

In case you're unfamiliar, here ya go:

 

Clown, I really really appreciate your help.

I plan to add the JK shocks and ditch the rear sway bar.

Any advice on where to buy or what length sway bar link to buy?

I really don't know how big this lift is, does it matter if I want the correct sway bar links? Should I get quick disconnects?


was kind of hoping to ID the components so that I could buy the correct missing parts.

 

No problem, bud. I'm happy to help people who are willing to put in some effort.

Check your actual lift height by reading the first three posts here:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=912893

Then you can buy extended sway bar links or quick disconnects based on your amount of lift over those factory numbers. I think you said it'll be 95% street and mild trails? I wouldn't worry about disconnects with that ratio unless you plan to do rock crawling, but they're nice to have if you see a set for a decent price.

 

Thanks mongr will check that out in the morning

 

hows it going guys, been searching around for answers for some questions i have, no luck, found this thread and thought this might be it..

first off my rig is a 98' cherokee 4dr 4x4 power everything all the works and its 'right hand drive'.

currently running 32 mud terrains on 16" jeep wheels at stock height.

1. my first question would be how much lift can i do without having to mess with any of the steering components? (track bar, drag link, pitman arm, tie rod)

reason i ask is because of it being rhd im not sure if its different or not from a lhd xj, and aftermarket steering components for rhd is more expensive the lhd.

beginning to second question, my tires are 32" by 11" wide on 16" 99' rubicon wheels, (not sure of width) ive already cut 1.5" off my fenders, but on decent bumps my rear seems to rub the inside of the wheel well, (lift should stop that im guessing) and when i turn all the way in any direction tires rub on control arms im guessing.

2. second question, should i buy wheel spacers to help eliminate some of these problems along with what ever lift i plan on doing? (planning on only 3"s)

3. third question, with a 3" lift would i still have to get longer brake lines for the rear? (i have drums dont know if that makes a difference)

4. how much would i have to drop the transfer case if any with a 3" lift? how much for 4.5"? (i plan on going to 4.5/5"s later)

5. do i need to change control arms for 3"-5" lift? (i tend to beat on the jeep pretty hard when i go wheeling, just putting that out if thats a factor or not)

6. do i need to do anything to the rear sway bar for the lift if i want to keep it attached? (still drive the jeep almost every day, and long halls with the pop up trailer and family will be frequent this winter)

so far i have 3" lift coil springs for the front that i was gifted from a buddy (not yet installed) and i bought 3" lift blocks from the local auto parts store for the rear (not yet installed) and im about to pull the trigger on some fox 2.0 shocks in the next week or two, all 4 new, pretty pricey, but you get what you pay for right? hahah

i know its allot, but i put my son in my jeep and its extremely important that i get everything done correctly so that theres no problems after its done.

thanks for any input in advance really appreciate it

 

6" of lift is the absolute max of stock steering capabilities, IMO. It limits my droop at 4.5"

More lift won't fix rubbing on control arms, a new set with a bend in them will, or wheels with more backspacing. A good brand (spidertrax) will be fine as long as you follow the instructions.

You'll probably want a longer brake line in the rear.

Go with a full SYE and driveshaft.

Yes, you will need new control arms at over 3".

Throw the rear sway bar away.

Don't run blocks, get new leaf packs.

 

I'm trying to install rear AAL's today... Can I do this with the leafs on the jeep or do I need to remove the whole pack?

 

can anybody tell me the length of stock or longer front sway bar connectors? The ones on my xj are 6" from center of one eye to the center of the other.

Trying to find out if they are the right size for a 3.5 inch lift.

 

best to take them off to do it. Soak the bolts in penetrating oil first. AAL are super stiff, and don't usually last a long time. Put anti seize on everything so that later it comes apart easy.

 

99 f350 fronts worked great on my 4.5. Not sure of the length.