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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:48 PM
  #17011  
walburn's Avatar
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From: Indiana
Year: 2001
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I have a 3in lift with 31 in tires. Do I need quick disconnects? I am having problems with my front shocks busting the bottom bushing to make the shock rattle every time I hit a bump.
Thanks for any help
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:01 PM
  #17012  
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From: battleground wa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ho
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Originally Posted by walburn
I have a 3in lift with 31 in tires. Do I need quick disconnects? I am having problems with my front shocks busting the bottom bushing to make the shock rattle every time I hit a bump.
Thanks for any help
Just a thought. You dont have to hsve quick discos. You could just get extended ones for like 20 $ I post a oic of mine if I remember when I get home.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #17013  
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From: Indiana
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by vandelden21
Just a thought. You dont have to hsve quick discos. You could just get extended ones for like 20 $ I post a oic of mine if I remember when I get home.
Thanks that would be a great help bought the jeep with the lift and in a year and half of owning it I am getting ready to buy my 3 set of front shocks.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:22 PM
  #17014  
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From: battleground wa
Year: 1996
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I know I will forget by the time im home.

http://www.jackit.com/re1175-b.html?...Fc5DMgodqBMA2g

Those are re's there are cheaper ones that will do the job just fine. But just so you know what to look for. I think I paid 20 something for mine.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 10:57 PM
  #17015  
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From: western mass
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Slim357
Nah you shouldnt need them right away but will be needed for trail use
my bad i meant to say sway bar drop brackets not stabilizer something or other, im going to want to wheel it right away does the sway bar drop make it more vulnerable? would longer links make sense instead?
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #17016  
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From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by cweed24

my bad i meant to say sway bar drop brackets not stabilizer something or other, im going to want to wheel it right away does the sway bar drop make it more vulnerable? would longer links make sense instead?
Longer links are better if you are dead set on running a swaybar. I thru mine away it handles so much better with out the front and rear swaybars IMO there are guys that argue that its unsafe but if you know your Jeep you can still drive the hell out of it and never have an issue.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:50 PM
  #17017  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Slim357
Longer links are better if you are dead set on running a swaybar. I thru mine away it handles so much better with out the front and rear swaybars IMO there are guys that argue that its unsafe but if you know your Jeep you can still drive the hell out of it and never have an issue.
the idea behind swaybars is to control body roll. If you dont have them on, you're at the whims of your springs and shocks while you drive on the street. If you have to make a sudden change in direction, your vehicle can become very unstable without a swaybar. The rear sway bar we can all agree on removing: you dont need or notice it. the front however, I feel is a necessity if you're driving on the street. Plus it only takes a few minutes before and after wheeling to remove/replace the links (respectively). you can do it or have someone else do it while you air up or down.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:54 PM
  #17018  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
If you get a 13.5" tire you will need 10" wide rims too.
I do have that
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:55 PM
  #17019  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown

33s? I think Interco makes a 33x13.5, but I don't know of any others. Your options in 33x12.5 are many.

What terrain? Street? Weather conditions? Mud, sand, water crossings, rocks?
I do a little bit of everything honestly
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 12:23 AM
  #17020  
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From: Wilmington,NC
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep

the idea behind swaybars is to control body roll. If you dont have them on, you're at the whims of your springs and shocks while you drive on the street. If you have to make a sudden change in direction, your vehicle can become very unstable without a swaybar. The rear sway bar we can all agree on removing: you dont need or notice it. the front however, I feel is a necessity if you're driving on the street. Plus it only takes a few minutes before and after wheeling to remove/replace the links (respectively). you can do it or have someone else do it while you air up or down.
Like I said some guys will argue for them I personally dont like them. I havent had any issues with out mine and have made several evasive maneuvers with out mine and never had an issue handles better from what it did with them on. I enjoy it and dont have any safety issues from it
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 01:47 AM
  #17021  
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From: Marion, Illinois
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 Engine
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what is the best quality 3in lift kit because im on a $500 limit for the kit alone I have mixed thoughts on iron rock, fat bobs rough country, zone, rubicon and oldman emu lifts I want to at least lift it 3in so I can use it as my daily driver and some occasional wheeling. my rear leafs are almost flat but getting there I was thinking of buying the add a leaf option and adding a chevy lowering shackle to level it out. can anyone help me out on this tough predicament.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 02:15 AM
  #17022  
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From: ROCKFORD IL
Year: 1998, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Black Demon
what is the best quality 3in lift kit because im on a $500 limit for the kit alone I have mixed thoughts on iron rock, fat bobs rough country, zone, rubicon and oldman emu lifts I want to at least lift it 3in so I can use it as my daily driver and some occasional wheeling. my rear leafs are almost flat but getting there I was thinking of buying the add a leaf option and adding a chevy lowering shackle to level it out. can anyone help me out on this tough predicament.
You absolutely want new leaf packs. Everyone with AAL eventually get new packs, AAL s are just a band aid

Also I've had fat Bob's. Their AAL was the worst thing I have ever spent money on for my Jeep

Last edited by 98REDXJ2; Jun 8, 2013 at 02:18 AM.
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 08:21 AM
  #17023  
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From: Indiana
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Black Demon
what is the best quality 3in lift kit because im on a $500 limit for the kit alone I have mixed thoughts on iron rock, fat bobs rough country, zone, rubicon and oldman emu lifts I want to at least lift it 3in so I can use it as my daily driver and some occasional wheeling. my rear leafs are almost flat but getting there I was thinking of buying the add a leaf option and adding a chevy lowering shackle to level it out. can anyone help me out on this tough predicament.
I agree with AAL they suck and it only last about a year then you notice that it is dropping. I bought mine with AAL and now have to replace it spend a little extra money at the start and not have to mess with it a year later. IMO
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:24 AM
  #17024  
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Hello all,
I am looking in to getting 1.5 inches of off-set. I want to get wheels that are with enough offset I do not want to buy spacers with 1.5 of off-set. I wan to buy wheels with correct off-set.
Moving from stock wheels with 30's to 31's can someone tell what the correct wheel is?
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 10:31 AM
  #17025  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by jrl5678RHD
Hello all,
I am looking in to getting 1.5 inches of off-set. I want to get wheels that are with enough offset I do not want to buy spacers with 1.5 of off-set. I wan to buy wheels with correct off-set.
Moving from stock wheels with 30's to 31's can someone tell what the correct wheel is?
15x7 or 15x8 with 5x4.5 bolt pattern, and you want backspacing between 3.5-4". A lower BS measurement will stick out farther, and stock is 5.25".
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