The FSM says one order, and everything else says to go the other way.

Also, does changing the prop valve mean I have to bleed the cyclinder?

I'm okay with bleeding the wheels if someone helps with the order. I have no idea how to bleed the master cylinder and I have no idea how to bleed the combination valve. How do I proceed?

I've tried searching, but the terms are all so common I can't get anywhere.

 

I start from the furthest one away from the master cylinder first. Passenger seat rear, then driver side rear, then passenger side front then driver side front.

 

what about the master cylinder and/or combination valve?

 

If you don't let the master cylinder empty itself, you don't need to bleed it. Same with the proportioning valve. When you change out a caliper or wheel cylinder on your brakes, you rarely get air all the way up into the master cylinder unless you leave it sit wide open for a long time. After swapping out a proportioning valve it just takes longer to get all the air out through the calipers and wheel cylinders. Just make sure you keep the level of brake fluid up as you work the air out.

There are plenty of videos that explain how to bleed a master cylinder if you really want to do it but unless you know it has air in it, you shouldn't have to bother. If you're having trouble with your brakes and suspect the master cylinder, you may need to rebuild it or buy a replacement.

 

Okay, thanks. I'm not sure if there's a problem or not, lol. I haven't driven the truck in months. I've been doing a lot of work on it, and have only had it towed to a shop for some welding in the entire process.

 

The one man bottle bleeders for $10 are my go-to for brake bleeding. Takes all the guesswork out and saves fluid too, while speeding up the whole process.
No more "Pump it up! Hold it! Hang on! Wait a minute! etc

 

I do enough work on enough Jeeps that I bought a power bleed setup. Fill the jug with brake fluid, hook up the adapter to the cap on the reservoirs, pump it up, crack the bleeder screw, let it flow until you get clean fluid with no bubbles. I check the pressure and fluid level in the jug between corners. Takes about 10 minutes to bleed all 4 corners. But it's an expensive tool to keep around if you don't use it often enough.

 

Here's a great alternative. I love it!!

https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-...der-92924.html

 

Mine did. I wish I had thought ahead more, but I didn't. By the time I looked in the cylinder, the whole thing was empty.

The videos, and the FSM usually explain how to bench bleed. Like when installing new. I'm trying not to remove mine. is it possible to follow the one video that seems to make sense to me? I've attached here, if I do it right...


I would like to take some buy some hose from the store, connect it to the front left caliper bleeder nipple, and run the other end back into the cylinder. Will it really be that simple? The video says 3/16" ID hose...

 

Geez guys. Bleeding brakes is very easy.

 

So I'm reading too much into it with the master cylinder? Then why does everyone make it sound so hard?

Would I see similarly overcomplicated descriptions if I ever actually looked at how to bleed the brakes themselves?

 

Fill the master
Have a helper pump the pedal 5 times and hold.
You open the RR bleeder while the helper keeps pressure on the pedal. Close the bleeder. Helper releases the pedal and you repeat the procedure until clean fluid with no air bubbles come out.
Be sure to refill master after bleeding each caliper.
Now, do the LR, RF, and LF all the same way. Done.

 

Oh. Okay. I know how to do that part. I just kept seeing places tell me that in addition, I have to separately bleed the master cylinder, AND then bleed the combination valve.

 

Just do it the normal way. Should be fine.
Dont panic just yet. Theres plenty of time for that later if necessary!!!
LOL.
Bunch of Nervous Nellies sent you down rabbit trails.

 

Yeah, understood. The one thing that has me really nervous is that I wanted to avoid removing the master cylinder at all costs, so any bench bleeding was a non-starter. I've had WAY too many things on cars/trucks this old go south because I messed with them when if left alone, they'd still be going.