Just installed 3" Zone kit with disconnects and transfer case drop kit. I have also replaced sway bar bushings, wheel hub/bearings (timken). I am running 31x10.5/15 Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ's and I have a lot of vibration and snatchy grabbing with front end....it feels sloppy so I know I need to get a front end alignment but my question is should I install an adjustable track bar (picked up a JKS one at Quadratec tent sale) before alignment???? And should I replace lower control arms as well? If so what brand??

The adjustability of the track bar is a big part if your alignment, so yes.

Aftermarket LCA's will help your axle stay more centered than it is with stock arms. I bet you need to adjust your toe and install that track bar.

I think I might have a ball joint issue as well. I have tried checking them and they seem ok but when I steer left it feels like the top of the tires fall over. Might not be used to the lifted ride and tire size but just seems really sloppy in the front now. I hope track bar and alignment are my issues.????!!!

Are adjustable ones necessary or would fixed length be ok since I am only running a 3" lift???
Suggestions for brand?

Bump

I personally would get adjustable ones . Not sure how much difference in price depending on what brand you go with. I like the option of being able to fine tune my front end.

Anybody have a brand suggestion and best price???

ok, but i'm doing 3" rubicon, with 3/4" spacers....do i really NEED adjustable LCA's & WHY? 90% of my driving will be on-road, the other 10% will be sand & small puddles.....

IRO. Good quality too..

I was at a three inch lift until this past weekend when I went up to 4.5 I would do it right the first time. Install the track bar and get it set correctly so the axle is centered at ride height. Get adjustable lower control arms for if you end up going higher and to get caster in spec. If you were to run stock lowers you would find very quickly that the LCA will come into contact when drooping and thus limit your droop. If possible get ones with a bend in them, that will cure that problem. With the adj. track bar and lower control arms I think you will find your xj will flex quite nicely. Also, don't forget bumpstops, the hockey puck mehod works just fine if its on the cheap.

Oh, and IRO is a great choice, I'm running their track bar, hack n tap SYE and tie rod and have had great success with them.

That is a whole different question....if I swap out my factory front bump stops (one is missing anyway) do I just get any extended bump stop or a certain length? And in the rear do I run them in the factory location or do I need these top leaf plate I have seen that extends towards the center of the rear and again just any set of extended bumps or a measured length?? I know that is a lot to answer but when I started this project I thought ahhhh just slap on 3" lift and tires and call it a day....man! was I wrong!!!!
Info on here has been a huge help...thanks to all!

I'm not too familiar with the aftermarket front bumpstops to be honest. Maybe someone can chime in on that. I have the stock ones up top. While I had the coils out, I drilled and tapped the center of each coil pad for a 5/16" bolt. Then I took 2 hockey pucks per side and drilled out the center. Now I can adjust the bumpstop without removing the coil every time. But you could also rtv them in. I played around with it and found that two pucks (about 2" of bumpstop extension) is good for me running 31s on a 3" lift. As far as the back, they make 4.1" rubber oem stops that seem to be working just fine. Hope this helps.

I did 2 pucs drilled thru them drilled and tapped the coil bucket 3/8s used stainless bolts. 2 pucs and the stock bump stops work well.

Alignment......http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm