97+ Doorless Mod.
This is a great write up, thought I would bring it back to life.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...stment-146651/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/97...stment-146651/
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 3
From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0

These are (I believe.. they are on 97+) t40 bolts. They're a pain in the *** to remove (hard to get a ratchet and bit in there) but it can be done. I used a box end wrench with the t40 bit.
You wouldn't want to do this process more than once. The doors are heavy, the bolts have a **** ton of thread, and it's a pain in the *** to align properly.
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Joined: Sep 2013
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From: Eaton Co
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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From: Colorado
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 3
From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0

^That's what I mean by messed up body work.
Resident Zombie Hunter
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 3,542
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From: Virginia
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The link posted in the first thread is the best and only good way to do it if you've got newer hinge style. It's super easy to do. There's no real reason to try it another way.
Actually this is one of the easiest mods I have done. Just use common sense when putting the doors back on. I mean if you just bolt it on an blatantly open the door, then yea you could do some damage. But take your time and make certain everything is aligned correctly.
I have a 2000 model.
Only parts you will need is two hinge pin sets from autozone or similar.
Its important to use the provided bushings. My door was sagging already. This mod tightened things up like new.
The weight of your door is carried on the lower hinge. So only the top hinge ear is really needed on the lower hinge. However I left both ears on the lower hinge that is mounted to the jeep to save time. I drilled these two holes out so the bushings had to be pressed in. Welded the new pin to the door side lower hinge top ear. Bottom ear has to be removed.
For the top hinge no ears are removed! The top hinge supports the door. So it has more side loads. Simply drill out the body side hinge holes so the new bushings have to be presses in. Drill the door side upper hinge exactly to the size of the pin. To do it even better you would install new bushings on the door side upper hinge also.
The upper pin installs from the bottom with a clip.
Your door is heavy. So doing it this way let's you simply set the bottom pin in the hole first. Then you slide the upper pin in by hand. Much easier than holding the door and trying to align both pins at once.
And you get a no slop door.
On the upper pin you can use a clip to hold it in place or a pin if you drill a hole for it.
Only parts you will need is two hinge pin sets from autozone or similar.
Its important to use the provided bushings. My door was sagging already. This mod tightened things up like new.
The weight of your door is carried on the lower hinge. So only the top hinge ear is really needed on the lower hinge. However I left both ears on the lower hinge that is mounted to the jeep to save time. I drilled these two holes out so the bushings had to be pressed in. Welded the new pin to the door side lower hinge top ear. Bottom ear has to be removed.
For the top hinge no ears are removed! The top hinge supports the door. So it has more side loads. Simply drill out the body side hinge holes so the new bushings have to be presses in. Drill the door side upper hinge exactly to the size of the pin. To do it even better you would install new bushings on the door side upper hinge also.
The upper pin installs from the bottom with a clip.
Your door is heavy. So doing it this way let's you simply set the bottom pin in the hole first. Then you slide the upper pin in by hand. Much easier than holding the door and trying to align both pins at once.
And you get a no slop door.
On the upper pin you can use a clip to hold it in place or a pin if you drill a hole for it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,314
Likes: 3
From: Canton, GA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 2000 model.
Only parts you will need is two hinge pin sets from autozone or similar.
Its important to use the provided bushings. My door was sagging already. This mod tightened things up like new.
The weight of your door is carried on the lower hinge. So only the top hinge ear is really needed on the lower hinge. However I left both ears on the lower hinge that is mounted to the jeep to save time. I drilled these two holes out so the bushings had to be pressed in. Welded the new pin to the door side lower hinge top ear. Bottom ear has to be removed.
For the top hinge no ears are removed! The top hinge supports the door. So it has more side loads. Simply drill out the body side hinge holes so the new bushings have to be presses in. Drill the door side upper hinge exactly to the size of the pin. To do it even better you would install new bushings on the door side upper hinge also.
The upper pin installs from the bottom with a clip.
Your door is heavy. So doing it this way let's you simply set the bottom pin in the hole first. Then you slide the upper pin in by hand. Much easier than holding the door and trying to align both pins at once.
And you get a no slop door.
On the upper pin you can use a clip to hold it in place or a pin if you drill a hole for it.
Only parts you will need is two hinge pin sets from autozone or similar.
Its important to use the provided bushings. My door was sagging already. This mod tightened things up like new.
The weight of your door is carried on the lower hinge. So only the top hinge ear is really needed on the lower hinge. However I left both ears on the lower hinge that is mounted to the jeep to save time. I drilled these two holes out so the bushings had to be pressed in. Welded the new pin to the door side lower hinge top ear. Bottom ear has to be removed.
For the top hinge no ears are removed! The top hinge supports the door. So it has more side loads. Simply drill out the body side hinge holes so the new bushings have to be presses in. Drill the door side upper hinge exactly to the size of the pin. To do it even better you would install new bushings on the door side upper hinge also.
The upper pin installs from the bottom with a clip.
Your door is heavy. So doing it this way let's you simply set the bottom pin in the hole first. Then you slide the upper pin in by hand. Much easier than holding the door and trying to align both pins at once.
And you get a no slop door.
On the upper pin you can use a clip to hold it in place or a pin if you drill a hole for it.
I'm fairly sure this is the reason my doors sag. I have a 96, so different hinges... but I lost the little graphite sleeves that fit around the pins. They're not very thick at all but it's enough to make a difference. I noticed that the bottom pin has a bit of free-room inside of the hinge.
the easiest way in my opinion would be to open the door and spraypaint the door part of the hinges and the area around them (like in the attached photo) so you can unbolt it and have a guide to put them back on with. once you have them marked with paint and the doors unbolted from the hinge, close the hinge like the door is shut and take an angle grinder to the hinge pin from the back side. once you've cut through the pin get a prybar and a hammer and a punch tool and get the two halves to the split pin out. once you have the pin out, line the hinge back up with the paint markings you made and bolt the hinge back in to the door. then get the appropriate disconnect hardware to hold your door on and serve as an easy removable hinge pin and viola! you have removable doors.


