8.25 vs D44
#1
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Year: 1999.
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8.25 vs D44
my question is how much stronger is the D44 over the chrysler 8.25? also do different D44s have different strengths? considering they can come from an array of different vehicles. iv found a few D44s that came stock with the cherokee for about 300-400 some with lockers some without. ones with lockers have both been with sparten lockers. so my question remains are the cherokee D44s worth the upgrade over the 8.25? iv heard there honestly not that much stronger. if not what D44s are worth the upgrade at that kind of cash? thanks for the input everyone.
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 HO
if you want to upgrade from your 8.25 get a ford explorer axle which is an 8.8 with factory limited slip its a nice cheap upgrade, i was very pleased with it
#3
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iv heard the 8.8 is basically the same exact strength as the 8.25.. although like you said if i get one with the limited slip it may be worth the cash n work too swap em out. im totally content with keeping my 8.25 long as its strong enough for the wheeling i do (mild-moderate rock crawling and trail riding primarly) otherwise i would like too upgrade. also keep in mind if regearing will make my axle strong enough i can just do that over swapping axles out and then regearing again down the road.
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Year: 1996
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iv heard the 8.8 is basically the same exact strength as the 8.25.. although like you said if i get one with the limited slip it may be worth the cash n work too swap em out. im totally content with keeping my 8.25 long as its strong enough for the wheeling i do (mild-moderate rock crawling and trail riding primarly) otherwise i would like too upgrade. also keep in mind if regearing will make my axle strong enough i can just do that over swapping axles out and then regearing again down the road.
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Just keep the 8.25. Throw some shafts in there and call it good. I wheeled mine stock with 35s for a while. I'm just now beefing them up. Piece of mind I guess
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Decent bit of fab for the 8.8 swap, cutting off the old mounts and welding on new ones and a yoke mod. The later model 8.25 is fine for 35s. The 8.8 hangs a bit low and still a c-clip axle.
To answer the original question the 44 comes in many variations, 10, 19 and 30 spline, one piece and two piece shafts and the weak 44a has c-clip axles. The XJ version is a little stronger than the 8.25 and has flanged shafts so the wheel doesn't fall off if you break a shaft. And it has a ton more aftermarket support.
To answer the original question the 44 comes in many variations, 10, 19 and 30 spline, one piece and two piece shafts and the weak 44a has c-clip axles. The XJ version is a little stronger than the 8.25 and has flanged shafts so the wheel doesn't fall off if you break a shaft. And it has a ton more aftermarket support.
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#8
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What size tires are you gonna run? IDK if I missed it, but I don't think that you mentioned it.. Also I'd say just keep the 8.25 and as stated, throw some upgraded shafts in.. If your going with 33's or 35's be aware that you will be putting a lot of rotational weigh on each corner and even with upgraded shafts, gears, u joints, etc., you can still snap things apart. Even if the rear DS u joint fails, the shaft can whip around and tear into gas lines, exhaust... Not to discourage! Just to inform! Have fun, man!
#10
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What size tires are you gonna run? IDK if I missed it, but I don't think that you mentioned it.. Also I'd say just keep the 8.25 and as stated, throw some upgraded shafts in.. If your going with 33's or 35's be aware that you will be putting a lot of rotational weigh on each corner and even with upgraded shafts, gears, u joints, etc., you can still snap things apart. Even if the rear DS u joint fails, the shaft can whip around and tear into gas lines, exhaust... Not to discourage! Just to inform! Have fun, man!
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Year: 99
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If its the DD, then consider 33's and 4.56 gears. 33x12.50's (or 10.50's) are pretty big, cheaper than 35's and cause less stress on steering, breaking and driveline systems.. Just thinkin out loud.. My buddies wrangler, though on 6" lift, is on 33x12.50's and they are beast!
Edit- 33's and 4.56's should put you at stock rotation, so mpgs should be minimally effected. If you regear, then you do yourself a big favor in the mpg department..
Edit- 33's and 4.56's should put you at stock rotation, so mpgs should be minimally effected. If you regear, then you do yourself a big favor in the mpg department..
#13
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If its the DD, then consider 33's and 4.56 gears. 33x12.50's (or 10.50's) are pretty big, cheaper than 35's and cause less stress on steering, breaking and driveline systems.. Just thinkin out loud.. My buddies wrangler, though on 6" lift, is on 33x12.50's and they are beast!
Edit- 33's and 4.56's should put you at stock rotation, so mpgs should be minimally effected. If you regear, then you do yourself a big favor in the mpg department..
Edit- 33's and 4.56's should put you at stock rotation, so mpgs should be minimally effected. If you regear, then you do yourself a big favor in the mpg department..
Last edited by clayton3854; 01-10-2012 at 03:06 PM.
#14
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trust me i know, i started off with stock mudders, then lifted the jeep 4.5" got 33s then tried 31s instantly regretted it now at 32s and am quite happy but def wanna go back to bigger just with my mpg any bigger will kill me why im looking to learn more about gearing and axles
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