Originally Posted by northline76

No need for a tool to do that. All it takes is a screw and a vice. Find a screw that fits snuggly into the injector basket. Put the screw in the vice, and then slowly screw the injector onto it. The screw will grab the basket, then pull off the injector, it will leave the old screen stuck on the screw.

Originally Posted by 99 XJ

Just got some 784s when I go to the store what should I buy the o rings. For a jeep or a neon

Originally Posted by Zacks98

Theyre all the same, just "O-rings"

Originally Posted by 99 XJ

I got the o rings got all the top ones on with ease trying to put the bottom ones on and can't get them over the cone on the 784s that center the injector

Originally Posted by no rdplz

This is for all 703 and 784 injectors swaps. If you're using the Ford injectors, you'll need to get a set of the retaining clips and solder them in place.
Make sure the to drain the your fuel pressure first before starting the swap. Not doing this can result in a constant fuel spill from the rail.

1. Remove the air filter tube from the TB and the filter box, as well as the breather tube from the air filter box.

2. Disconnect the sensors from the TB.

3. Disconnect the vacuum line from the back of the TB.

4. Remove the 4 bolts that attach the TB to the intake manifold (for extra room to work)

5. remove the 2 bolts that attach the throttle cable bracket to the intake manifold

6. "Unclamp" the hoses from the top of the valve cover. Now move all the stuff you've unbolted
out of the way of the fuel rail.

7. Remove the bolts that attach the fuel rail to the engine.

8. Disconnect the electrical plugs from the injectors.

9. Gently pull the fuel rail away from the engine. Be careful to not break the connector to the fuel line that at the front of the rail. You should have a little play room to move the rail around, but it's not much.

10. Once the fuel rail is off, remove the small metal clips from the injectors. They are right where the injectors meet with the rail. You need to reuse these so don't lose/bend/break them. A small flat head screw driver works very well to pop them off.

11. Hold the rail over something to catch some fuel (a medium tupperware container works very well, especially the kind Hillshire Farms lunch meat comes in) and remove the "rear" injector. Some fuel should come out of the opening.

12. With the "back" of the rail (where you just pulled the injector from) still over the container, pull the "front" injector. This will allow any remaining fuel to pour out of the rail freely.

13. Once the fuel is done draining from the rail, remove the other 4 injectors.

14. Make sure that all the o-rings from the stock injectors are out of the rail and the engine. If there's any gunk buildup in the engine holes, use a toothpick and a damp rag to clean the holes. Be careful to not let any crud get into the engine.

15. Make sure the new injectors have the o-rings and caps on them. Lube all the o-rings with a small amount of vaseline. This will keep them from tearing.

16. Plug each injector into the rail, and refasten the metal clips to "lock" them in place.

17. Firmly press the rail and injectors into place on the engine and install the bolts.

18. Put a small amount of di-electric grease in each electrical plug and reconnect them to the injectors.

19. Put the TB cable bracket, the TB, all hoses, and sensors back in place.

20. Start the Jeep, and check for any fuel leaks coming from either end of all the injectors. If there's a leak, pull everything off again and make sure the injectors and rail are fitted properly, as well as making sure there isn't any evidence of a ripped/torn o-ring. Put it all back together and recheck for leaks. If there are no leaks, turn off the Jeep.

21. Disconnect your battery terminals and hold them together for 30 seconds. After those 30 seconds, reattach the terminals to the battery.

22. Turn your ignition to the "ON" position - DO NOT START YOUR JEEP.

23. Turn your headlights on, wait 10 seconds, then turn them off.

24. Turn the ignition to the "OFF" position.

25. Start your Jeep. Your ECU is now reset and will "relearn" the proper fuel trim levels for the new injectors over the next 50 warm up cycles.

Originally Posted by no rdplz

Let me get them out to askingzforzit first and then I'll see how many I have left. I'll let you know.

Originally Posted by kjc

Just a quick tip.. I got a set of 703's from (drawing a blank on his handle, but thanks to him!) While i was inspecting and drooling over them, i noticed one of the pintles was cracked, and with a little fingernail scratchin' at it, i chipped a piece off. Well, that's to be expected with old parts i guess, so i ran up to google some new ones. No joy. Buy 'em by the 50 pak or by the kit, but i donwanna spend the $$. Then, as I sat, dejected, staring at a very 'not helpful' google screen, an idea popped into my little noggin'.. Why not use the old ones? They looked fine the last time i had 'em out, and they're being replaced anyway. How DO i do it!? I don't know Sorry, i said a quick tip, and it turned into a novelette.

Originally Posted by Programbo

Most likely you were upgrading your old injectors which means your old ones are EV-1 type pintles and the 703's use the newer EV-6 pintle (Even though the 703 uses an EV-1 electric plug. So you can't use your old tips. Is it cracked completely in half? All the plastic tip really does is hold the o-ring on and give the o-ring and injector a tad of protection for the heat and debrie of the combustion. In any event I usually pry my pintle caps off with an old flat fork which I spread the tins out to form a V. I've started looking all the ones I sell over with a magnifying glass as it's easy to miss those hairline cracks.