6.5' Lift, Requirements?
06-26-2013, 11:57 PM
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inlie 6 4.0
6.5' Lift, Requirements?
Hello all, ( Now dont bash me for putting this in the wrong section because I know it wont get answered in the designated one) But what are the other requirements do you need to go that high?
So far in my cart I have -
- 1984-2001 Jeep XJ Cherokee Rear Extended CV Driveshaft
- Jeep Dual Steering Stabilizer
- Jeep TJ / XJ HD Tie Rod Upgrade Kit
- 1.5in Wheel Spacers, Pair (5x4.5in) - (2)
- XJ 1.5in Coil Spacers (Front)
- XJ Front Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- XJ Rear Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- NP231 Slip Yoke Eliminator
Plus, Jeep XJ 6.5in Suspension lift kit, Which includes the following------------
- Transfer Case Drop kit
- Adjustable Track Bar
- Brake Line Relocator Brackets
- Sway-Bar Disconnects
- Drop Pitman Arm
- A Set of New Lifted Coils
- Rear Lifted Leaf Springs
- Rear Lift Shackles
- And the, X-Flex Control Arms (upper and lower)
__________________________________________________ __________________
Does that seem like everything I need? And so if I were to run 35's, should I invest in a Super 35 Kit? Thanks, any help will be appreciated. ;D
So far in my cart I have -
- 1984-2001 Jeep XJ Cherokee Rear Extended CV Driveshaft
- Jeep Dual Steering Stabilizer
- Jeep TJ / XJ HD Tie Rod Upgrade Kit
- 1.5in Wheel Spacers, Pair (5x4.5in) - (2)
- XJ 1.5in Coil Spacers (Front)
- XJ Front Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- XJ Rear Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- NP231 Slip Yoke Eliminator
Plus, Jeep XJ 6.5in Suspension lift kit, Which includes the following------------
- Transfer Case Drop kit
- Adjustable Track Bar
- Brake Line Relocator Brackets
- Sway-Bar Disconnects
- Drop Pitman Arm
- A Set of New Lifted Coils
- Rear Lifted Leaf Springs
- Rear Lift Shackles
- And the, X-Flex Control Arms (upper and lower)
__________________________________________________ __________________
Does that seem like everything I need? And so if I were to run 35's, should I invest in a Super 35 Kit? Thanks, any help will be appreciated. ;D
06-27-2013, 12:25 AM
#2
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Sounds like you're going with RC? If so, I'd get control arms and rear springs from someone else. I'd personally go with long arms at that height too. I'd ditch the transfer case drop too, and probably the drop pitman arm. I wouldn't add the coil spacers either, unless you just want an 8" lift.
I would also get 1 ton steering, I have Serious Offroads 1 ton UTK kit waiting to go on mine, its built strong. And if everything is set up right, you don't need a steering stabilizer at all, especially not two of them. And I'd get new wheels with the proper backspacing instead of throwing spacers behind stock wheels. That's just my 2 cents worth though, I'm personally not a big fan of RCs Jeep lifts, there are much better parts available (although I do have a couple RC parts on my pieced together lift, but only LCAs and shackles, most of my parts are RE).
And, if you're going to run 35's, I'd get rid of the D35 rear, a Ford Explorer 8.8 or even an 8.25 out of an XJ would be better suited for that size tire. My D35 rear is hating life with my skinny 33's, and an underpowered 2.5.
I would also get 1 ton steering, I have Serious Offroads 1 ton UTK kit waiting to go on mine, its built strong. And if everything is set up right, you don't need a steering stabilizer at all, especially not two of them. And I'd get new wheels with the proper backspacing instead of throwing spacers behind stock wheels. That's just my 2 cents worth though, I'm personally not a big fan of RCs Jeep lifts, there are much better parts available (although I do have a couple RC parts on my pieced together lift, but only LCAs and shackles, most of my parts are RE).
And, if you're going to run 35's, I'd get rid of the D35 rear, a Ford Explorer 8.8 or even an 8.25 out of an XJ would be better suited for that size tire. My D35 rear is hating life with my skinny 33's, and an underpowered 2.5.
06-27-2013, 12:49 AM
#3
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Year: 1988
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Engine: Inlie 6 4.0
Sounds like you're going with RC? If so, I'd get control arms and rear springs from someone else. I'd personally go with long arms at that height too. I'd ditch the transfer case drop too, and probably the drop pitman arm. I wouldn't add the coil spacers either, unless you just want an 8" lift.
I would also get 1 ton steering, I have Serious Offroads 1 ton UTK kit waiting to go on mine, its built strong. And if everything is set up right, you don't need a steering stabilizer at all, especially not two of them. And I'd get new wheels with the proper backspacing instead of throwing spacers behind stock wheels. That's just my 2 cents worth though, I'm personally not a big fan of RCs Jeep lifts, there are much better parts available (although I do have a couple RC parts on my pieced together lift, but only LCAs and shackles, most of my parts are RE).
And, if you're going to run 35's, I'd get rid of the D35 rear, a Ford Explorer 8.8 or even an 8.25 out of an XJ would be better suited for that size tire. My D35 rear is hating life with my skinny 33's, and an underpowered 2.5.
I would also get 1 ton steering, I have Serious Offroads 1 ton UTK kit waiting to go on mine, its built strong. And if everything is set up right, you don't need a steering stabilizer at all, especially not two of them. And I'd get new wheels with the proper backspacing instead of throwing spacers behind stock wheels. That's just my 2 cents worth though, I'm personally not a big fan of RCs Jeep lifts, there are much better parts available (although I do have a couple RC parts on my pieced together lift, but only LCAs and shackles, most of my parts are RE).
And, if you're going to run 35's, I'd get rid of the D35 rear, a Ford Explorer 8.8 or even an 8.25 out of an XJ would be better suited for that size tire. My D35 rear is hating life with my skinny 33's, and an underpowered 2.5.
06-27-2013, 01:05 AM
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RC isn't know for having the best quality parts. I've seen one set of their rear XJ springs, and they were too short. I've heard of other people having the same problem.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
06-27-2013, 01:32 AM
#5
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Year: 1988
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Engine: Inlie 6 4.0
RC isn't know for having the best quality parts. I've seen one set of their rear XJ springs, and they were too short. I've heard of other people having the same problem.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
So pretty much what your saying is that with the regular short arm I will probably get just as much flex as the stock suspension? Instead of having the long arm kit? because then it allows for more flex?
06-27-2013, 09:06 AM
#6
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Year: 1988
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Engine: Inlie 6 4.0
RC isn't know for having the best quality parts. I've seen one set of their rear XJ springs, and they were too short. I've heard of other people having the same problem.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
With that much lift, you'll need either long arms or drop brackets to get the control arms at a decent angle so it will ride halfway decent and perform like it should. I'm not a fan of dropping things down, so I would personally put long arms on it at that height. With short arms and no drop brackets, it will ride like a tank. I've heard of problems with the bushings wearing out extremely quick with RCs long arms though.
Really, RC is about last on my list of lifts I would buy. RE is top of my list, Zone makes pretty good kits as well. Only reason I have any RC parts on my Jeep is simply because they were free. My MJ has a 4.5" RC lift on the front of it, and I'm not a fan of the lift, its on short arms and rides horrible, and doesn't flex as well offroad as my little lift on the XJ.
So as of now, I have my mind set on the long arm kit. But does that mean I still need the drop pitman arm? and the control arm drop kit?
06-27-2013, 09:33 AM
#7
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Pick up the CV shaft of the front of a XJ at a pick and pull and save your money.
Steering stabilizers do nothing but hide true problems in your steering setup
Go with a full steering setup, the rewards are greater. This will also negate the need for a drop pitman arm.
Ditch the wheel spacers, you can pick up new steel wheels from summit or jegs for like 50 bucks each.
Ditch the coil spacers, no need to be that high. And why would you want the front higher than the back?
Buy the brake lines in a complete set to save money, not seperately.
Standard 231 SYE is a good choice
I wouldnt buy a whole kit, piece the thing together to save money and get what you truely need.
Transfercase drop kit is pointless when you have already done it right with the SYE
Make sure the adjustable track bar is double sheer and will match your drag link angle.
No point in brake line relocation if you have already done it right with extended brake lines
I dont run sway bars, personal preference. If you are new to a lifted rig, good idea.
Drop pitman arm is pointless if you have already done it right and upgraded your steering.
Coils, yes.
Leafs, yes
Shackles, yes
Control arms, go long arm and you will thank yourself now instead of kicking yourself later. No, you do not need drop brackets with long arms.
You also might need shackle relocation brackets as CJ leafs are notorious for being too short to achieve a good angle.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions. If you would like, I could piece together a complete kit for you with everyhing you would need. You would save money on bundling and instead of shipping from multiple locations and I already know what is compatible together. We would do it right so you would never have to upgrade a component again.
Kris Froehlich
Steering stabilizers do nothing but hide true problems in your steering setup
Go with a full steering setup, the rewards are greater. This will also negate the need for a drop pitman arm.
Ditch the wheel spacers, you can pick up new steel wheels from summit or jegs for like 50 bucks each.
Ditch the coil spacers, no need to be that high. And why would you want the front higher than the back?
Buy the brake lines in a complete set to save money, not seperately.
Standard 231 SYE is a good choice
I wouldnt buy a whole kit, piece the thing together to save money and get what you truely need.
Transfercase drop kit is pointless when you have already done it right with the SYE
Make sure the adjustable track bar is double sheer and will match your drag link angle.
No point in brake line relocation if you have already done it right with extended brake lines
I dont run sway bars, personal preference. If you are new to a lifted rig, good idea.
Drop pitman arm is pointless if you have already done it right and upgraded your steering.
Coils, yes.
Leafs, yes
Shackles, yes
Control arms, go long arm and you will thank yourself now instead of kicking yourself later. No, you do not need drop brackets with long arms.
You also might need shackle relocation brackets as CJ leafs are notorious for being too short to achieve a good angle.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more questions. If you would like, I could piece together a complete kit for you with everyhing you would need. You would save money on bundling and instead of shipping from multiple locations and I already know what is compatible together. We would do it right so you would never have to upgrade a component again.
Kris Froehlich
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06-27-2013, 11:23 AM
#8
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Year: 1988
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Omg, THANK YOU! It seems as if I'm still looking around and researching. I'm going to try to learn as much as possible first. What do you men get the CV Shaft out of the front of an xj? Is the front drive shaft pretty much just the cv? And I kind of want an 8" lift so that's why I wanted the coil spacers. The coil spacers would lift the front and then couldn't I get like a 2 inch shackle lift for the rear to level it out? Now I'm not really good at peicing stuff together so that's why I want to buy a kit and all of the stuff at one place. No I hear rough country is decent, but it's more of the best bang for you buck. But you get what you pay for. I was figuring I could get the 6.5" long arm kit with all of the stuff that it comes with. Then get all of the other stuff such as the SYE, driveshaft, tie rod upgrade, wheel spacers so I can turn to full lock when I'm in the mud, and then the steel brake lines. Do you know any companies that sell a complete kit, with EVERYTHING you need to make it perfect?
Thanks
Thanks
06-27-2013, 11:39 AM
#9
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Year: 1988
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Engine: Inlie 6 4.0
What do you guys think on this lift? It seems as if it comes wit everything you need an gives you the option to add a SYE and CV driveshaft.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=PFX
06-27-2013, 04:35 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Your gonna be needing different steering set up fot that height also .Syecan be gotten for around 160 shipped off ebay .Also longer rear drive shaft . Front shaft from Cherokees are cheapest route.
06-27-2013, 09:34 PM
#12
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i would take leadfoots advice and just buy everything you need from him
at 8" for your first lift you're going to have headache after headache if you cheap out and don't do it right.
at 8" for your first lift you're going to have headache after headache if you cheap out and don't do it right.
06-28-2013, 08:08 AM
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to high
i will get a 5.5" Lift from Rubicon Express and fit 33"s , But if u go 35 then get ready for front and rear Gear Ratio Upgrades or you won't be able to climb a speed bump .
06-28-2013, 09:28 AM
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Have U looked into 3 link kits, all of our jeep club has them. A couple places sell them but if u can do your own customizing you will have the most flex around.. I built mine from 2.25 1/4 wall dom
