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6.5 inch lift suggestions

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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 10:05 AM
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I have a 2000 cherokee sport, 4.0, auto, np231, and Chrysler 8.25 rear... I am going to be putting a 6.5 Rough Country short arm lift on it... my questions is could I get away with temporarily running it without a sye, I am eventually going to be putting one in around the time I swap out to 4.10's... let me know when you expirenced jeep guys think

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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 10:08 AM
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Besides the sye, does 6.5" on short arms sound like a great idea?
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 10:14 AM
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6.5" on short arms is going to ride like crap.

Don't do it.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by NJ200XJ
I have a 2000 cherokee sport, 4.0, auto, np231, and Chrysler 8.25 rear... I am going to be putting a 6.5 Rough Country short arm lift on it... my questions is could I get away with temporarily running it without a sye, I am eventually going to be putting one in around the time I swap out to 4.10's... let me know when you expirenced jeep guys think
RC lift...STRIKE 1
6.5 on short arms...foul tip, STRIKE 2
6.5 with no SYE...STRIKE 3
LOL
Avoid the RC lift, you'll thank yourself later. Can you run 6.5 on SA's? Yes. Ride will suck. Can you run without an SYE? Maybe. But at that height, don't. Some people need SYE's at as low as 3", some not at all, each vehicle is different. Good rule of thumb is above 4" get an SYE. Save your money, get a decent non-RC LA kit with a SYE and good shocks. You have our opinions. Now go do the exact opposite of the advice you've been given like everyone else does. LOL

Last edited by Outlaw Star; Feb 15, 2014 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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Yup.....Like many I'm to poor to buy CHEAP!
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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I'm currently running an RC 6.5 short arm lift and it's my DD. An SYE is an absolute must do. I personally don't think the short arm lift rides terrible. Could be better, but certainly tolerable. The RC shocks can be kinda brutal until they get a few miles under them and warm up a bit every morning. I plan to upgrade to long arms and bilstein shocks in the future, but it just wasn't in the initial build budget. Unlike some others on here, I've had good luck with my RC lift.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 02:57 PM
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thanks guys, I gonna hold off the install till I have the sye... as far as cv driveshaft is that also a must, or can I run the stocker
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by NJ200XJ
thanks guys, I gonna hold off the install till I have the sye... as far as cv driveshaft is that also a must, or can I run the stocker
Sye uses different style shaft . Look at your front shaft that's what will be needed for rear. Which lift you looking at.

Last edited by freegdr; Feb 15, 2014 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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I ran 6.5" short arm for a bit, ride was terrible but not impossible to drive. I got away with not using an sye for a while but i didnt wheel it hardly at all and when i did i babied it. Waiting on sye parts now to install.

Did your kit come with a drop pitman arm and a new track bar? If not order them cuz you need them. Also going to need six degree shims, new centering bolts, a t-case drop, extended brake lines and extended e brake cable if they arent in the kit. You may be able to get away wiithout dropping the t case depending on if you end up with total lift of 6.5" or lower, any higher and youll need to drop the t case imo even with a sye. All rigs are different tho.

You may be able to use a stock front shaft with the sye, thats what i plan on doing anyways. If i remember ill post up here if its long enough.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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At 6.5" lift your drive shaft really runs the risk of falling off. If it stays on, the spline engagement is so minimal that you lose a lot of strength and the thing will vibe intensely. I wouldn't even attempt it.

Originally Posted by roninofako
RC lift...STRIKE 1
6.5 on short arms...foul tip, STRIKE 2
6.5 with no SYE...STRIKE 3
LOL
Avoid the RC lift, you'll thank yourself later. Can you run 6.5 on SA's? Yes. Ride will suck. Can you run without an SYE? Maybe. But at that height, don't. Some people need SYE's at as low as 3", some not at all, each vehicle is different. Good rule of thumb is above 4" get an SYE. Save your money, get a decent non-RC LA kit with a SYE and good shocks. You have our opinions. Now go do the exact opposite of the advice you've been given like everyone else does. LOL
QFT

At 6.5" things get serious. Spend the money on real components. It's not a cheap 2" lift that you can just replace if it goes bad, this is a real investment. (Unless you destroy the Jeep and sell it in a month or something). Especially at this height you really get what you pay for. Do your research and save up. Premium kits will include the parts you actually require for the whole vehicle to run at that height, not a small mix of random bits.

While we're here, since it's an expensive range, is there a particular reason you want 6.5"? A lot of people don't realize they can run their chosen tire on a lower Jeep, which is cheaper and better for stability.

Originally Posted by XRated
I ran 6.5" short arm for a bit, ride was terrible but not impossible to drive. I got away with not using an sye for a while but i didnt wheel it hardly at all and when i did i babied it. Waiting on sye parts now to install.

Did your kit come with a drop pitman arm and a new track bar? If not order them cuz you need them. Also going to need six degree shims, new centering bolts, a t-case drop, extended brake lines and extended e brake cable if they arent in the kit. You may be able to get away wiithout dropping the t case depending on if you end up with total lift of 6.5" or lower, any higher and youll need to drop the t case imo even with a sye. All rigs are different tho.

You may be able to use a stock front shaft with the sye, thats what i plan on doing anyways. If i remember ill post up here if its long enough.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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its a expensive game to play,not for the cheap.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:37 PM
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For sure. Major mods require deep pockets. You gotta pay to play when you go big.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by salad
At 6.5" lift your drive shaft really runs the risk of falling off. If it stays on, the spline engagement is so minimal that you lose a lot of strength and the thing will vibe intensely. I wouldn't even attempt it.

Well i did attempt and it drives just fine on the street and can flex fully with the shaft still engaged. I wouldnt attempt to put any more than minimal power to it with any more than minimal flex though. So there ya go bud.

And as for the sarcastic pic or if it was trying to slam on me idk which (funny pic 5 years ago). Was i .4mm off on one of the needed parts in that there list? Just trying to let the guy in on some of whats involved with going over 4".
No need to be a ****

Last edited by Outlaw Star; Feb 15, 2014 at 05:42 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 05:45 PM
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Our buddy uses the RC 6.5 kit but he also uses the CAD brackets to lower the control arms angle which really helps with the ride. The brackets will run you about 200 bucks. As for the SYE, its a good idea to budget for one or pay for a custom shaft like I did at 4". As stated, every Jeep reacts differently to certain mods.
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Old Feb 15, 2014 | 06:16 PM
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well to answer a few questions, I got the whole lift brand new for $600... has everything, adjustable upper and lowers, adjustable trackbar, t-case drop, springs, coils, etc.... I'm probably gonna order the sye with tw driveshaft soon
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