Yeah, 15x8 here. Running stock calipers in the front and disc-converted in the rear, using Black Magic pads. No problems stopping or locking the tires up, but dual-piston calipers would be nice someday if I ever feel the need to do a WJ knuckle swap and go with a 16" wheel.

Only current issue with a 15" and/or 3.75" backspacing is that putting the tie rod over the knuckle with heim joints leaves the end of the bolt almost right against the inside edge of the passenger wheel. But it's a CavFab setup which is all solid rod, so 'losing' a whopping 1" or so of clearance by leaving it mounted under is the least of my worries as it's at the same level as the axle tube anyway.

 

Hey JK - thanks for the reply. Sorry, I'm still really new at this - and I right that you're saying that if you have 15s w/3.75 BS that you have to do UTK instead of OTK due to clearance?

 

Most kits use standard 1/2" hardware, but I'm using 5/8" hardware which is slightly larger, and it was certainly cutting it close. Just the tiniest bit of trimming on that bolt head or the washer on that side would probably give it a bit more tolerance. I didn't feel like messing with it at the time and just mounted it UTK instead. Anything that could manage to bash in that solid bar tie rod would do even worse to the axle tube, so OTK is kind of pointless in that regard.

 

Ok that is HOT and sexy right there. Definitely goals for me. I've got a long list of things to do - this thing basically ONLY had a 6.5" lift and 35s when I got it, so first thing I'm putting in new front/rear with 4.88s since it has 3.07s since it's a 5-speed - and let me tell you it is NO FUN to drive with 3.07s!!! You might think I'm crazy but I'm swapping out the stock high-pinion D30 front for a low-pinion D30 from a 97 TJ simply because it was $375 and available, at least it will get me in the 4.88 game and make it driveable. EXCEPT I'm being ghosted by a guy who was going to sell me a Ford 8.8 already set up for an XJ with 4.88s and a locker - if that falls through I guess I'm waiting around until somebody decides to let go a decent rear end with 4.88s in it!! Also TC blew up, rebuilding that - then eventually steering, brakes, grenade launcher, cup holders - probably never going to end?

 

I got some 33s on the day before I regeared from 3.55 to 4.56 and it was awful. Low pinion isn't the end of the world, you just have to be a little more careful not do anything too stupid.

Yeah it never ends. I started this thing in 2009 and still have a few little things I want to do like hydro assist and relocating the lower control arm and rear shock mounts. Right now I'm just waiting for a nice stretch of weather to U-Pol the interior and redo the saggy headliner.

 

This is the first time I've had a vehicle that WASN'T my DD - it's nice to be able to let it sit on stands in the garage and work on it when I want to instead of OMG I HAVE TO FIX THIS RIGHT NOW OR I CAN'T DRIVE TO WORK TOMORROW. That straight up is stressful and sucks - this is much better! Good luck with your projects - good things to get done!

 

15x8 3.5" backspacing. Steers much better on rd than the factory steering i took off. And much more precise off road. Comments like 4.3 sid about wondering floping of drag link tierod. Alost scared me into a heim steering. However im glad i didnt listen. Im sure these kits arent as good as a drag lin separated fro tie rod. But man mine works well ive been flat tickled with it. It steers so well i see no reason to put a steering stabalizer on it. It flat just works.

 

6" lift on 35's here. I run 15x8 steelies, not sure on backspacing (likely 3.5"). With TnT long arms, I have full range of steering at ride height and only rub slightly on the inner fenders with the tires stuffed (front and rear). Works very well.

I still have stock steering. It sucks, but I've run this setup for what seems like forever now. Factory front brakes with disc swapped rear. Marginal at best, but works. I was planning a WJ swap for quite a long time but decided to go to a different route (Ford HP D44 with high steer).

IMO, do not let your wheels dictate the rest of the setup. Build the steering/suspension/brake setup that you really want and find wheels that work. 17's with more back spacing will perform better than 15's with less back spacing because it will keep your scrub radius close to factory. However, tire choices on 17's aren't great for our rigs, as previously discussed. Load range C is really where we want to be. I know plenty of people run load range D or even E tires but they just will not perform as well. The best possible setup would be a load range C tire and a wheel that gets close to factory scrub radius (~5.5" back spacing with no spacers). Looking on TireRack, there are two models of tires in 35x12.5r17 with load range C.

I'm also on the TRE>heim boat when it comes to steering. The biggest point to make is the drag link and track bar need to be parallel, as flat as possible, and as close to the same length as possible. The WJ setup is desirable because the drag link and tie rod mount on the knuckle on at separate points (true crossover style) so there is no concern of "tie rod roll" seen with inverted-T setups or toe change with suspension travel seen with inverted-Y setups (factory).

The setup I was planning on building was as follows:

-WJ knuckles
-Akebono calipers
-Ruff Stuff 1 ton crossover TRE steering kit (I think with offset TRE's at the wheels?)
-Ruff Stuff heim joint panhard kit (with outboard frame side track bar mount)

I know I've seen people make this setup work with 15's, but seems as if there is typically a significant amount of grinding involved on the calipers and sometimes the TRE's.

Again, my approach would be:

-ditch the sway bar (for now)
-forget that the Jeep needs wheels (for now)
-build the most BA suspension/steering/brakes setup possible
-find some tires and wheels you want and try like hell to get them to fit
-somehow find space to slap a swaybar back on there (anti-rock?)

A lot to think about and many compromises to make. That's why everyone does it slightly differently. Don't over-analyze stuff or you'll end up being a web-wheeler, like me.

 

Hahaha - a web wheeler!! I'm sure there are plenty of those. For the last two weeks I have definitely been a Garage Wheeler and my hands and way beat up to show it - I'm not sure they'll ever be clean again. Regardless this has been one hell of a fun ride and I can't wait to at least slap all this back together and get her rolling again so I can make some decisions about what to do next. After, of course, I rebuild the transfer case which is currently in 200,000 pieces on the floor of my garage.......