5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
The other idea I have is shimming the caliper bracket out with a couple of washers is this advisable? This should in theory give me another 1/2-“1/4” of pad seating area right?
So rotors did nothing for fitment I am thinking the pads maybe are too thick. I know The answer it’s not possible for that but I think this is the case. The old pad which has roughly 1/4” of material fits great obviously. Not sure what to do here. Are there different pad thickness I could look at that will fit on the Jeep?
i am also hoping the master cylinder will get my pedal back and at least I can maybe use the pads I have now.
i am also hoping the master cylinder will get my pedal back and at least I can maybe use the pads I have now.
Last edited by Darthjeep14; Nov 27, 2018 at 09:23 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 5,924
Likes: 203
From: Greenville, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Darthjeep14
Does anyone know if the caliper brackets are different on different year cherokees?
OK it's got an 8.8 with discs on the rear
When you start to get into this mix-master stuff unless you actually did the conversion you just have to start swapping pats til you get lucky. Are you sure it still has the original XJ calipers upfront?
I am bringing in to auto zone the old rotors the new stoptech ones I am trying to put on and then also the 2000 Cherokee rotors I just bought to check them all out height wise etc. I will get to the bottom of the different year rotors tomorrow and report back.
Is there anyone who has a picture or can snap a picture similar to what I took for comparison sake?
specifically how your calipers and pads are setup
specifically how your calipers and pads are setup
Last edited by Darthjeep14; Nov 28, 2018 at 07:17 PM.
So I replaced master cylinder and I have a pedal again.
I am going to re bleed again however.
Also going change tcase fluid fluid and output shaft seal. I’m losing fluid there. I still have a vibration that gets better when accelerating which leads me to think I need to adjust my pinion angle more. I am going to get an angle finder and figure out the angles.
I am going to re bleed again however.
Also going change tcase fluid fluid and output shaft seal. I’m losing fluid there. I still have a vibration that gets better when accelerating which leads me to think I need to adjust my pinion angle more. I am going to get an angle finder and figure out the angles.
Hello so I got some progress made on the driveline angles. I found my pinion is actually -2* from measuring from under the pinion on the flat surface of the 8.8
the transfer case is right 0*
i have a double cardan drive shaft but think I can get away with maybe a single and not have to tilt the rear as much.
From the measurements I need 2* shims to be at equal angles. This should solve any of the vibes I am getting right?
they are happening when the driveline becomes unloaded. I’m set acceleration it is vibration free. My idea was to tilt up 2* and set the track bar there so it doesn’t move on acceleration or deceleration.
If if I run the double cardan which is what I would like to do I think I may need to rotate more than the 2 degrees so they essentially make a straight line
the transfer case is right 0*
i have a double cardan drive shaft but think I can get away with maybe a single and not have to tilt the rear as much.
From the measurements I need 2* shims to be at equal angles. This should solve any of the vibes I am getting right?
they are happening when the driveline becomes unloaded. I’m set acceleration it is vibration free. My idea was to tilt up 2* and set the track bar there so it doesn’t move on acceleration or deceleration.
If if I run the double cardan which is what I would like to do I think I may need to rotate more than the 2 degrees so they essentially make a straight line
Hey since I have no welding skills to speak of and time is pretty limited otherwise I’d buy a welder and say f it I’ll get er done, how much would it be for a shop to relocate spring perches?



