5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
10-01-2018, 08:34 PM
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
So just bought this wild truck. It is probably the most terrifying truck I have been in. Explorer rear end.
Having said that, I will post pictures.
I have have a few things I would like to do and considering it is the red interior it’s very very hard to find interior pieces.
The thing i would most like to save is the seats. If there is a way I could I have someone redo them in the original fabric I would give a small piece of my pinky toe.
Other odds and ends ends would be the center console had to get hacked for the shifter b&m stealth shifter
i was thinking of getting new carpet as well but this one is actually in good shape after a thorough cleaning.
It is pushing at least 500hp and I would like to make it safer. Mainly some frame stiffening any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of lowering it but not sure what that would do for drive ability with the 4x4. Yes it still has 4x4.
It will run 10.5 in the quarter. I don’t push it like that usually. It is addicting however. I just want it drag race ready frame wise. If it helps to lower it I am ok with that as long the 4x4 will still work.
Lastly is the driveshaft is making noise it needs a custom one made with double u joints. Can someone in the Chicago area reccomend a shop?
Having said that, I will post pictures.
I have have a few things I would like to do and considering it is the red interior it’s very very hard to find interior pieces.
The thing i would most like to save is the seats. If there is a way I could I have someone redo them in the original fabric I would give a small piece of my pinky toe.
Other odds and ends ends would be the center console had to get hacked for the shifter b&m stealth shifter
i was thinking of getting new carpet as well but this one is actually in good shape after a thorough cleaning.
It is pushing at least 500hp and I would like to make it safer. Mainly some frame stiffening any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking of lowering it but not sure what that would do for drive ability with the 4x4. Yes it still has 4x4.
It will run 10.5 in the quarter. I don’t push it like that usually. It is addicting however. I just want it drag race ready frame wise. If it helps to lower it I am ok with that as long the 4x4 will still work.
Lastly is the driveshaft is making noise it needs a custom one made with double u joints. Can someone in the Chicago area reccomend a shop?
10-02-2018, 10:24 AM
#4
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Well that is certainly interesting. You can get weld in frame stiffeners from several companies. However there is one, I don't remember which now, that makes some that go all the way forward to the motor mount area. They do have to be welded in though. What are you doing for leaf spring wrap? Those rear springs were never made for that kind of HP
10-02-2018, 10:34 AM
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Holy **** that is cool
Post some engine bay pictures when you get a chance.
For the frame, I would do full frame stiffeners and maybe a BoostWerks Ultimate Steering Brace (the one with the bearing for the steering gear).
When re-doing the driveshaft, you should probably consider a driveshaft hoop for the track.
Make sure the rear leaf springs and shocks are in GOOD shape (spring rate wise), and install some leaf spring straps to help with axle wrap.
Engine tuning, keep an eye on it. Wideband o2 sensor and oil temp are both important to watch. Also IAC and EGT
Lowering is tricky because you will need to keep the driveshaft length, and angle in consideration. For the rear shaft, you can probably get away with a rebuilt or custom slip-yoke style shaft, will be better off with a SlipYoke Eliminator and a double-cv shaft IMO.
Post some engine bay pictures when you get a chance.
For the frame, I would do full frame stiffeners and maybe a BoostWerks Ultimate Steering Brace (the one with the bearing for the steering gear).
When re-doing the driveshaft, you should probably consider a driveshaft hoop for the track.
Make sure the rear leaf springs and shocks are in GOOD shape (spring rate wise), and install some leaf spring straps to help with axle wrap.
Engine tuning, keep an eye on it. Wideband o2 sensor and oil temp are both important to watch. Also IAC and EGT
Lowering is tricky because you will need to keep the driveshaft length, and angle in consideration. For the rear shaft, you can probably get away with a rebuilt or custom slip-yoke style shaft, will be better off with a SlipYoke Eliminator and a double-cv shaft IMO.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 10-02-2018 at 10:42 AM.
10-02-2018, 10:51 AM
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Well that is certainly interesting. You can get weld in frame stiffeners from several companies. However there is one, I don't remember which now, that makes some that go all the way forward to the motor mount area. They do have to be welded in though. What are you doing for leaf spring wrap? Those rear springs were never made for that kind of HP
Any idea on how much it would cost a shop to weld in the frame supports?
10-02-2018, 11:18 AM
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Holy **** that is cool
Post some engine bay pictures when you get a chance.
For the frame, I would do full frame stiffeners and maybe a BoostWerks Ultimate Steering Brace (the one with the bearing for the steering gear).
When re-doing the driveshaft, you should probably consider a driveshaft hoop for the track.
Make sure the rear leaf springs and shocks are in GOOD shape (spring rate wise), and install some leaf spring straps to help with axle wrap.
Engine tuning, keep an eye on it. Wideband o2 sensor and oil temp are both important to watch. Also IAC and EGT
Lowering is tricky because you will need to keep the driveshaft length, and angle in consideration. For the rear shaft, you can probably get away with a rebuilt or custom slip-yoke style shaft, will be better off with a SlipYoke Eliminator and a double-cv shaft IMO.
Post some engine bay pictures when you get a chance.
For the frame, I would do full frame stiffeners and maybe a BoostWerks Ultimate Steering Brace (the one with the bearing for the steering gear).
When re-doing the driveshaft, you should probably consider a driveshaft hoop for the track.
Make sure the rear leaf springs and shocks are in GOOD shape (spring rate wise), and install some leaf spring straps to help with axle wrap.
Engine tuning, keep an eye on it. Wideband o2 sensor and oil temp are both important to watch. Also IAC and EGT
Lowering is tricky because you will need to keep the driveshaft length, and angle in consideration. For the rear shaft, you can probably get away with a rebuilt or custom slip-yoke style shaft, will be better off with a SlipYoke Eliminator and a double-cv shaft IMO.
i should say p/o did v8 grand Cherokee springs and shocks. That helps a little. He also has a track bar welded in.
I have wideband and boost gauge. I have obd2 adapter and torque lite for engine monitoring.
I need a full size tach with shift light. But I like the torque app jus need to maybe upgrade to full.
I am totaly lost lost when it comes to driveshafts. I am trying to contact a local shop to get a recommendation.
I will post engine pics soon
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10-02-2018, 01:04 PM
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Actually, I think a slip yoke shaft might be better if you intend to lower the vehicle.
If you are full coil spring, just get some junkyard springs, cut the coils, and see how it looks!
You can get custom coils made or for another application
For a custom driveshaft you should first figure out what style you want, then contact a manufacture to help you take measurements. Tattons Driveshafts (Utah), Adams Driveshafts (Nevada), and Tom Woods (also Utah) all make good driveshafts.
Or you might be able to use a FRONT driveshaft from an XJ but you will also need a SlipYoke Eliminator which is only about $300 or so
If you are full coil spring, just get some junkyard springs, cut the coils, and see how it looks!
You can get custom coils made or for another application
For a custom driveshaft you should first figure out what style you want, then contact a manufacture to help you take measurements. Tattons Driveshafts (Utah), Adams Driveshafts (Nevada), and Tom Woods (also Utah) all make good driveshafts.
Or you might be able to use a FRONT driveshaft from an XJ but you will also need a SlipYoke Eliminator which is only about $300 or so
10-02-2018, 01:44 PM
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Actually, I think a slip yoke shaft might be better if you intend to lower the vehicle.
If you are full coil spring, just get some junkyard springs, cut the coils, and see how it looks!
You can get custom coils made or for another application
For a custom driveshaft you should first figure out what style you want, then contact a manufacture to help you take measurements. Tattons Driveshafts (Utah), Adams Driveshafts (Nevada), and Tom Woods (also Utah) all make good driveshafts.
Or you might be able to use a FRONT driveshaft from an XJ but you will also need a SlipYoke Eliminator which is only about $300 or so
If you are full coil spring, just get some junkyard springs, cut the coils, and see how it looks!
You can get custom coils made or for another application
For a custom driveshaft you should first figure out what style you want, then contact a manufacture to help you take measurements. Tattons Driveshafts (Utah), Adams Driveshafts (Nevada), and Tom Woods (also Utah) all make good driveshafts.
Or you might be able to use a FRONT driveshaft from an XJ but you will also need a SlipYoke Eliminator which is only about $300 or so
hey waffles- would you mind pm-ing me some links for what oubare talking about.
10-03-2018, 07:00 AM
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
So I did some research on the sye and seems like a very good idea. I looked at Tom woods web site to get an idea of price. Seems 5-600 is about it. Should I get a double cardan joint driveshaft or something different. As long as it will hold 6-700hp should be ok.
I am full leaf spring in back still but does have v8 gc shocks. V8 gc springs and shocks in front.
I am full leaf spring in back still but does have v8 gc shocks. V8 gc springs and shocks in front.
10-03-2018, 07:51 AM
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Forward facing headers?!?! Looks like a well put together build!!
For a shop to weld in frame stiffeners, figure probably $4-500 maybe more. The expensive part isn't even the welding - its the prep and removing the undercoating as well as unbolting everything so you can get the plate steel on.
OR an alternative is to prep it at home, get the frame prepared and everything unbolted and ready to weld. Then go on CraigsList and find a competent mobile welder near you and pay him to weld everything up. That would be much cheaper (plus I think you need to weld the stiffeners in with the Jeep fully on the ground so you weld it exactly as it will be driving down the road).
https://www.tattonsdrivelines.com/
https://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/
Two very good driveshaft manufactures. They can make you any varient you want, to spec.
You will want to get in touch with them, tell them your setup and what you are trying to achieve, and ask what they would recommend.
Both guys are active in the XJ community and are very familiar with "mild-to-wild" setups so I am sure they will be able to spec you a driveshaft for the application
EDIT:
A driveshaft hoop/loop is basically just a metal loop that goes around your driveshaft so if it blows up while you are on the gas hard, the shaft doesn't potentially drop to the ground and catapult your XJ into the air. With 500 hp I don't think thats an extreme likliehood (more like when you are launching off a trans brake, or with something that shifts super hard). 4l80's are pretty easy over all. My local track requires one for anything running in the 10's I think
https://www.jegs.com/c/Steering-Susp...10061/10002/-1
For a shop to weld in frame stiffeners, figure probably $4-500 maybe more. The expensive part isn't even the welding - its the prep and removing the undercoating as well as unbolting everything so you can get the plate steel on.
OR an alternative is to prep it at home, get the frame prepared and everything unbolted and ready to weld. Then go on CraigsList and find a competent mobile welder near you and pay him to weld everything up. That would be much cheaper (plus I think you need to weld the stiffeners in with the Jeep fully on the ground so you weld it exactly as it will be driving down the road).
https://www.tattonsdrivelines.com/
https://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/
Two very good driveshaft manufactures. They can make you any varient you want, to spec.
You will want to get in touch with them, tell them your setup and what you are trying to achieve, and ask what they would recommend.
Both guys are active in the XJ community and are very familiar with "mild-to-wild" setups so I am sure they will be able to spec you a driveshaft for the application
EDIT:
A driveshaft hoop/loop is basically just a metal loop that goes around your driveshaft so if it blows up while you are on the gas hard, the shaft doesn't potentially drop to the ground and catapult your XJ into the air. With 500 hp I don't think thats an extreme likliehood (more like when you are launching off a trans brake, or with something that shifts super hard). 4l80's are pretty easy over all. My local track requires one for anything running in the 10's I think
https://www.jegs.com/c/Steering-Susp...10061/10002/-1
Last edited by investinwaffles; 10-03-2018 at 08:06 AM.
