5.3 80mm turbo 4l80e 1986 xj
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I am honestly unfamiliar with the springrates on the XJ - I would have to look them all up, then compare to aftermarket to know for sure
I think some re "pack" their springs with Chevy S10 leafs but honestly, for $2-300 I would just get new ones and not worry for a while.
General Springs looks like a spring manufacture in Kansas (I have never dealt with them, they just came back through a few google searches).
They will make custom springs for just about anything. I would call them up and tell them what you are trying to do. They should be able to help guide you through the measuring process;
https://www.generalspringkc.com/Meas...ngs_s/3140.htm
If not, I know Deaver will - but you will pay a huge premium.
Then just cut the coils up front and call er good!!! Or start looking for a coil that will match the dimensions after you cut it to size.
Like maybe these (they list a .5" lift for the shortest spring)
https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-j...l-springs.html
EDIT:
Just FYI - the T-Case appears to already be clocked (rotated upwards) so you are already good to go there!
I would just get an SYE + new rear driveshaft and test. Also remove the front driveshaft because it helps really track down the vibration.
Those u-joints all look new so I would assume it is out of alignment. A double-cardan shaft gives you 1 additional u-joint to help align things even better.
Also, to confuse things further - you can convert to 1350 series u-joints (from 1310) which would give you an even beefier driveline.
But u-joints are easy to replace when you break them - axle shafts not as easy
I think some re "pack" their springs with Chevy S10 leafs but honestly, for $2-300 I would just get new ones and not worry for a while.
General Springs looks like a spring manufacture in Kansas (I have never dealt with them, they just came back through a few google searches).
They will make custom springs for just about anything. I would call them up and tell them what you are trying to do. They should be able to help guide you through the measuring process;
https://www.generalspringkc.com/Meas...ngs_s/3140.htm
If not, I know Deaver will - but you will pay a huge premium.
Then just cut the coils up front and call er good!!! Or start looking for a coil that will match the dimensions after you cut it to size.
Like maybe these (they list a .5" lift for the shortest spring)
https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-j...l-springs.html
EDIT:
Just FYI - the T-Case appears to already be clocked (rotated upwards) so you are already good to go there!
I would just get an SYE + new rear driveshaft and test. Also remove the front driveshaft because it helps really track down the vibration.
Those u-joints all look new so I would assume it is out of alignment. A double-cardan shaft gives you 1 additional u-joint to help align things even better.
Also, to confuse things further - you can convert to 1350 series u-joints (from 1310) which would give you an even beefier driveline.
But u-joints are easy to replace when you break them - axle shafts not as easy
I talked to someone one at Tom woods today. I am going to get the 231hd 32spline double cardan driveshaft and sye kit for 805 to my door. Does any of what I just said make any sense?
Now do i I do the leaf springs and shocks first then measure the driveshaft or measure drive and just do it all same time?
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Joined: Oct 2018
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
upon further research, most Jeep shocks are extended 19.8-21” collapsed 11.9-12.8 from what I saw on summit. The strange adjustable shocks are 20 and 12.5. Seems like they should be alright according to the site.
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
ah crap you are right. I do have an avalanche t-case. This makes it more interesting now. I uh probably should have remembered that. Any ideas can t-woods still make something for me?
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
It actually seems like both front and rear have pretty same extended and collapsed lengths. I could probably use the strange adjustable in front and back. Set the rears a little softer than the fronts for the track and launch.
Member
Joined: Dec 2016
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From: delaware
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I don't know too much about the Chevy T-case stuff. It doesn't look like the output housing comes off on those so I don't know what the Chevy guys do for the slip yoke. Tom Woods can make the driveshaft no problem I think but the slip yoke might be tricky.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Is there a tag on the case? If so give us the numbers. Then I can answer some questions for you
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
:Update:
i ordered the following tonight
2 dorman hd leaf springs with bushing already pressed in 231$ shipped to me
2 strange engineering rear shocks 150$
2 Cherokee slotted and drilled front rotors
set of raybestos ceramic Pads
2001 Cherokee brake booster for firmer pedal feel
camaro power steering pump
power steering pump cooler
50mm tial q bov
figuring out driveshaft tomorrow. Going to measure for double cardan and order it
i ordered the following tonight
2 dorman hd leaf springs with bushing already pressed in 231$ shipped to me
2 strange engineering rear shocks 150$
2 Cherokee slotted and drilled front rotors
set of raybestos ceramic Pads
2001 Cherokee brake booster for firmer pedal feel
camaro power steering pump
power steering pump cooler
50mm tial q bov
figuring out driveshaft tomorrow. Going to measure for double cardan and order it
