Lol see this is were it gets confusing, I am not looking to have the most travel in the world just a capable system, and iro seems to provide that, and honestly if iro sucks because of that wouldn't every other 3 link like rc, rusty, Rubicon all be just as bad?

Im trying to educate my self with unbiased information
Witch is better 4 link/ 3 link for the dollar,

 

x1000

Cheap, easy and that's what most companys sell. Not many people actually build a radius arm setup. Mine works ok but I'm not in love with it. Can't wait to fab up a real 3 link.
Those aren't proper 3 link setups. To do it corectly the upper arm mounts up at the frame similar to the lower links, not to the lower arm itself.

I am attempting to give you unbiased info. I run a radius arm type setup, but I don't care what I run, I know it's not perfect and not what I would choose to run again. A lot of things I run aren't the best but I run what I can afford at the moment and I beat the hell out of it anyway. It works fine, much better than any short arm system and it's been bulletproof. But I'll be switching to a 3 link and I'd suggest doing it right from the start. I don't know enough about the BDS 4-link setup to comment on it.

 

iron rock is the only company that offers this stupid piece to adjust caster and have A SINGLE 10mm factory bolt to keep the axle from flopping around.




i have broken more 10mm bolts in my suspension than i care to count and know of many others. even some who have broken BOTH 10mm uoper control arm bolts when running a 4 link. they gloat about how you can never break thier arms and all that jazz. but what good is a strong chain with a weak link?

and iron rock isnt a true 3 link. its simply a radius arm with essentially one upper link taken out. others might call it a wristed radius arm.

rouch country,rustys, and rubicon express are radius arms. they have 4 points that connect to the axle.

dont get me wrong. 3 link setups can be great. but they have to be done right.

another thing that bugs me is the fact that they use all rubber bushings that connect to the axle in a non binding setup. this translates into a looser feeling suspension, and axle hop that becomes more pronounced as the bushings wear.

its a system that works for some people, but it just scares me that people are putting a suspension thats arguably weaker than stock on rigs that see more abuse than stock.

 

There we go!
That's the info I was looking to learn about

So , what companies offer a true 3 link? And now that I am.wiser it seems a radius type will suit me just as well for what I will be doing but, as I said it will be nice to have the capabilities of a 3/4 link compared to a radius, can you not use bigger bolt in place of that 10mm?

So what companies offer a true 3 link?
Since all radius arms work the same I imagine when it comes to them its just a matter of quality of parts, service etc,

 

x10000x10^100000000

companies sell radius arm kits cause they are easy to make, and easy to install. most people buy off the shelf kits. most radius kits are cheap. most people are cheap, especially XJ/MJ owners (myself included).

with what i have personally seen on the trail, i would never ever run a radius arm type suspension.

 

What do you run?

 

if that was towards me....

i made my own longarm 4-link.

 

It was.

I'm pretty sure I've seen what KTM uses, was curious about yours.

 

you can, but you would need a new bushing/joint in the factory dana30 mount. theres a hardened sleeve in there that you can drill, but so much heat would be generated that the bushing would be junk by the time you are done. as far as i know only rockkrawler sells a kit that converts that to a solid joint and utilizes a 9/16" bolt. currie might offer something too to run a 7/16" bolt irrc (still small)

and it doesnt appear the iron rock setup can be modified to run a larger bolt. and even if it can be, you are still left with one of the stupidest pieces of suspension out there.

89eliminator nailed the reasoning theres so many radius arm kits out there.

and the truth is most off the shelf 3 link kits offered dont have much separation at the frame end, which isnt a big deal to most, but great antisquat numbers arent present unless you have a decent amount of link separation back there, which requires putting the link mount through the floor, or lowering the lower links to the point of being rock magnets and hurting clearance.

i didnt want to go through the floor with mine, so i built a midarm 3 link and have been loving it.


from what ive seen on the trail the benefits of a TRUE 3 LINK (not iron rocks wannabe 3 link) over a radius arm setup is the axle tends to stay planted better when wheelspin comes into play as well as when climbing a steep rock face the axle tends to stay closer to the jeep rather than the suspension "unloading"

of course there are many other factors to take into consideration when comparing rigs, but thats the basic jist of it all.

 

I was happy with my adjustable upper/lowers on the last rig. Hindsight I should have ran longarms, since that was basically a trail only vehicle. But this Jeep is just gonna get the same gig, normal adjustable upper & lowers and call it a day.

 

Well I can't fab up anything of my own, so rockkrawler seems to be a popular choice

 

But I did get some great info,

4/3 links with the right Accessories is far superior

Radius arms are common and cheap, but not as capable


And rockkrawler is the only company that sells a true 3 link, that's worth a penny?

 

clayton offers a radius arm, a 3 link, and a 4 link.

id rock clayton or rockkrawler in a heartbeat if i wasnt going to build my own

 

and clayton.


I've been running the RK 3 link for a long time and enjoy it quite a bit.

Clayton offers a full x-member where RK uses brackets bolted/welded to the unibody.

 

X2. Clayton stuff is badass.