4-link vs. Y-link.
02-02-2011, 01:44 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
4-link vs. Y-link.
I have a rough country 3" stage two lift and after reading though a thread on pirate 4x4 http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=702415 (DONT GET LOST ON THAT THREAD!!) I have decided i want to tackle a long arm lift this summer after i learn to weld. I will most likely make it out of johnny joints and 1/4in thick DOM tubing. I am however torn between the popular y-link and the conventional 4-link. obviously it would be much easier to go with the y-link set up.
But I am asking you guys what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two setups. Thanks!!! i am going to try and go with 4.5in of lift and 33in tires. until i have the money to buy some new coils and shocks and go up to 6.5in of lift.
But I am asking you guys what are the advantages and disadvantages of the two setups. Thanks!!! i am going to try and go with 4.5in of lift and 33in tires. until i have the money to buy some new coils and shocks and go up to 6.5in of lift.
02-02-2011, 10:39 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The quick version...
What people generally like about the 4 link is there are 5 connections to the body, where the radius arms/y-link has only 3 (both including track bar). Despite this, people don't have a problem with axles breaking off the body with radius arms. Both kits require rubber bushings in at least one end of each link, as there is inherent bind in both setups when flexing.
Also with the 4-link, you would (in a perfect world) want to move both upper arms back to make them longer. You can run them from the stock location, but the pinion angle and binding consequences are worse than radius arms IMO.
Fabbing a 3-link would be the most bind-free way to do it.
PS - do a lot of welding before welding your suspension together...it is not just your life on the line.
What people generally like about the 4 link is there are 5 connections to the body, where the radius arms/y-link has only 3 (both including track bar). Despite this, people don't have a problem with axles breaking off the body with radius arms. Both kits require rubber bushings in at least one end of each link, as there is inherent bind in both setups when flexing.
Also with the 4-link, you would (in a perfect world) want to move both upper arms back to make them longer. You can run them from the stock location, but the pinion angle and binding consequences are worse than radius arms IMO.
Fabbing a 3-link would be the most bind-free way to do it.
PS - do a lot of welding before welding your suspension together...it is not just your life on the line.
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