Start off I don’t want to skimp, do it once, but also want to what’s needed. I also dd it. I currently have 32x11.5r15(1.5spacer/2inch shackle). Max I want is 33x12.5r15. I currently have new 4.5 Rusty lift coils, rough country fixed lower and adjustable trac bar.

I plan to to purchase rusty 3.5 full leaf add a leaf to go with my new leaf springs, brakes lines, shocks and diy t case drop (1inch),

so what else is needed and what are the best shocks to run for Dailey driver and to keep it from shaking or riding like poop. I’m not against a cad kit for control arm angle or best to just run and upper adjustable upper or both. The rear setup what is best with stock leafs to match 4.5 front. Aal, relocation, extended shackle, etc

 

The best for the rear is a lift leaf pack. I strongly suggest staying far away from an add-a-leaf.

 

I gotcha so second best already go new stock leafs

 

When lifting a Jeep, it's like a game of dominoes... You do something, then another part needs to be replaced to go along with it. A long chain reaction.

The best riding way would be either a long arm lift or short arms with drop brackets. It will ride like poop until certain angles are fixed (short arms). Also, not a fan of transfer case drops. The correct way is going the SYE route. I would highly think about your steering as well. the V8 ZJ tie rod upgrade is a good one. Or you could look at one ton steering. As far as the rear of the Jeep goes, if you are at 3.5 inches on the leaf springs, you will need to get another inch out of a shackle to match the 4.5 up front.

When you lift your Jeep and do the necessary things to get it to ride well, the cost adds up quickly.

 

There is a lot that goes into this and from my experience, the more you piece this together against buying a complete kit, the more you open yourself of to potential headaches.

I typically shoot for full size coils/leafs on your desired lift height. Only resorting to coil spacers or a lift shackle later if the suspension has settled and tire clearance has become an issue or the jeep sags heavy front/rear.

With 4.5" of lift your really on the tipping point between getting away without a long arm setup and Needing the long arm setup. I would argue the more excuse pieces (coil spacers, lca drop brackets, AAL) you use to get yourself to/over that 4.5" threshold the more problems your welcoming to face later on when components wear out.

Tcase drop will absolutely get you by for the time being while you save for an sye kit. you can literally use anything as a spacer as well it doesnt necessarilly have to be a pricey spacer kit. Two strips of 1"x2" square stock, literally oversized nuts that your tcase hardware can pass through, I've even seen hockey pucks used. You will though more than likely have to shim your real axle at the leaf spring perch to ease the pinion angle. Something else for you to look into 😉

With 4.5" and 33's, i think the ZJ v8 setup would fair you well. I wouldn't worry over a 1 ton setup unless your wheeling pretty extensively and/or replacing your tierods regularly.

 

@vroomvroom that is correct, just looking from the correct way but not the most expensive way.
my plan in front was Control arm drip, fixed rough country lower arm, adj trac bar, disconnects.

The steering what’s involved in zj steering upgrade, thinkings Cavfab?

I’m not fan of t case drop either kinda defects the lift purpose. (Could I get away with t case drop and shims for now? Or rusty dropped cross’s member ( idk if can go sye delete later with it) ?

The rear what would flex better? A. 3.5 add a leaf and shackle b. 2 add a leaf, shackle, c. 2 inch aal and relocation bracket. (Working with new stock leafs… their free)

 

@That Jeep Guy XJMJ I just acquired new take off parts 1k miles Rusty’s 4.5 coils, rc fixed lowers, rc adj trac bar, and new stock leafs..for $200..

Rustys AAL $114 / Shocks $220ish / Brake lines $30 / Diy T case drop $free

So another $360 bucks have a decent kit not the best but drivable???

Thinking about adding a control arm drop to the mix? Ran on jk no issue decent ride.

Steering what is ZJ upgrade… price compared tk Cavfab $229 crossover kit.

 

Sell those fixed lower arms and atleast get a set of adjustable upper/lower arms. Having that adjustability will be very appreciated whem it comes to getting your castor angle right.

Zj steering upgrade is taking advantage of slightly bigger/better factory components that bolt into your XJ. This is covered all over the place so it wont take much for you to find the part #'s needed.

 

Could I keep the fixed lowers, get adj upper and run a control arm drop.

 

Yes, there's nothing wrong with control arm drop brackets at 4.5 inches of lift. Ideally, you want adjustable control arms, but fixed lowers would be okay right now as long as you have a way to reduce/fix angles (aka the control arm drop brackets). Drop brackets should get you close.

The ZJ V8 tie rod is a beefier tie rod than what the XJ came with. The XJs was hollow and if you wheeled, it wouldn't take much to bend it. The ZJ V8 tie rod is thicker and solid as well. This will be a much cheaper option than an upgraded steering kit. A crossover steering kit from Cav Fab or Iron Rock is several hundred, but they are nice, beefy, kits too!

Yes, you can get away with a transfer case drop and shims for now. The downside to transfer case drops are you lose clearance underneath and they stress the motor mounts a bit more. Nothing crazy, but the stress is there. The most important part is getting the vibes under control. This usually requires shims in the rear at 4.5 inches of lift. Easiest way to know what shims you need is an angle finder.

With the rear, the ideal way is a full leaf spring pack, not an add-a-leaf. Just like the front, the angles in the rear matter as well.




Information on ZJ V8 tie rod upgrade: Information on ZJ V8 tie rod upgrade: ZJ tie rod upgrade : CherokeeXJ (reddit.com)

 

@vroomvroom good help man. yeah I planned on getting some adj uppers to help with pinion angle.
On the ZJ parts so basically just changing the tie rod and drag links to beefier options cheap👍🏼

Have you ever used or heard of hack and tap then run a stock front shaft in the rear?

your option on shocks trail tamer iro or rx1 rustys?

The rear i kinda understand that and i assume the longer the shackle less shims because it rolls the axle down in back but if too much can cause bad angles. So be better to use a relaxation bracket on rear with combined aal and shackle extension. Or just go 3.4 aal and relocation? Just hate to have to get new aftermarket leafs at this point.

 

Also on the front Fixed lowers and Adj Upppers still need drop bracket. Or drop bracket about ride and betters angles

 

If you don't like the idea of transfer case drop brackets/spacers (who does!) another options is to find a manual transmission (AX15) cross member the trans mount sits about 3/4"-1" lower in the x-member so you don't lose ground clearance.

 

The ZJ V8 part is just the tie rod, not the drag link.

I've never used either of those shocks. I've heard good things about the Trail Tamers from IRO and of course the Bilsteins and Doetsch Tech are good shock brands too.

I have never installed a hack n tap kit. My SYE is from Advanced Adaptors and is a full replacement piece. It costs more than the hack n tap kit, but it's a well built kit nonetheless.

The pinion angle I am referring to is the pinion on the rear axle. Look at the picture below and pay attention to the C-V Joint Driveshaft image. With an SYE installed and using an aftermarket driveshaft or a front XJ driveshaft, You will most likely have an angle of a few degrees at 4.5 inches of lift. By using shims, you can make this angle either 0 degrees or pretty darn close to it which will cure vibes at most or all speeds.





The angle on the front I was referring to is the angle of the control arms. For example, if you look at the lower control arms on a stock Jeep XJ, they sit flat or very close to it (parallel with the ground). Ride quality and handling suffer with a tall short-arm lift kit because the control arms are at a harsh angle.

 

@Glasply and say I do go that route I’d have to remove to use a sye in future right