4.5" on 32's???
Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Texas
Year: 1998 Classic
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
3.5" lift and 32's will require A LOT of fender trimming. I have a 3.5" Rubicon Express lift on my XJ. Even with generous trimming, I still added 3/4" spacers up front and extended shackles in back. Still have some very minor rubbing when the tires are at full stuff in the rear of the rear fenderwells. My XJ did not require a SYE or lowered transfer case. I have zero vibrations. But as stated above, all Jeeps are different. Try it and see. Maybe it works and maybe it doesn't.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Middlesex, New Jersey
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
i have a 96 xj and my friend has an 01. hes running the RC 4.5'" x-series lift on 33 with no sye and he says it runs fine... no vibes no nothin... im going RC 4.5 x-series 2.2 lift on 32's 11.5 wide. im hoping i dont have any problems. im gonna drop the t case and leave the sye off because i dont have the drive shaft
Last edited by Gizmo52; Sep 23, 2011 at 01:21 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 high output
I've got a 96 running a 4.5" lift and 32x11.5s without a sye or a driveshaft.
I dont get any vibrations (been up to 80 on the highway)
If your running stock fender flares, you may have to cut out a little bit on the inside of the front fenders in order to fully turn without rubbing.
I dont get any vibrations (been up to 80 on the highway)
If your running stock fender flares, you may have to cut out a little bit on the inside of the front fenders in order to fully turn without rubbing.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 2
Model: Cherokee
I'm running a 4.5" on 32's and I have a 1" drop on the transfer case without any vibrations at all. People should remember to state if they have an automatic or manual though, there is a difference in rear shaft lengths; mine is a manual. I think shims are okay, but you shouldn't get carried away with them. They say to keep them parallel so the rear axle pinion bearings receive enough lubrication and you fill the diff to the correct capacity. Ya know, extended shackles also give you some effective pinion degree change. Mine is a second gen body 97 so I only had to cut some off the front bumper. Cutting and proper bump stops are not the same; bump it correctly and you can keep your flares.
this is with my front coil completely removed and the bump stop holding the truck up. I've since cut the front bumper end to clear. Before anyone says anything about not getting enough uptravel, keep in mind, the tire tilts dramatically when you allow the other side to droop a lot, so this is appropriate when its actually loaded up off camber.
this is with my front coil completely removed and the bump stop holding the truck up. I've since cut the front bumper end to clear. Before anyone says anything about not getting enough uptravel, keep in mind, the tire tilts dramatically when you allow the other side to droop a lot, so this is appropriate when its actually loaded up off camber.
Last edited by s14unimog; Sep 23, 2011 at 01:53 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Lift
I know where the shims mount but I saw somewhere online that with the SYE and CV drive shaft you want to tilt the pinion with shims where on just the stock rear drive shaft you want to keep the pinion and the transfer case parallel so using a t-case drop would accomplish that.
If I find the article again I will post it on here.
If I find the article again I will post it on here.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 229
Likes: 1
From: Middlesex, New Jersey
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0L Inline 6
Originally Posted by wtptrust09
I have a 1998 2 door cherokee with a 4.5 rough country lift with 32's thers no rubs i have the stock flairs on and you dont. Need a longer drive shaft
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 4,930
Likes: 3
From: 802
Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by s14unimog
I'm running a 4.5" on 32's and I have a 1" drop on the transfer case without any vibrations at all. People should remember to state if they have an automatic or manual though, there is a difference in rear shaft lengths; mine is a manual. I think shims are okay, but you shouldn't get carried away with them. They say to keep them parallel so the rear axle pinion bearings receive enough lubrication and you fill the diff to the correct capacity. Ya know, extended shackles also give you some effective pinion degree change. Mine is a second gen body 97 so I only had to cut some off the front bumper. Cutting and proper bump stops are not the same; bump it correctly and you can keep your flares.
this is with my front coil completely removed and the bump stop holding the truck up. I've since cut the front bumper end to clear. Before anyone says anything about not getting enough uptravel, keep in mind, the tire tilts dramatically when you allow the other side to droop a lot, so this is appropriate when its actually loaded up off camber.
this is with my front coil completely removed and the bump stop holding the truck up. I've since cut the front bumper end to clear. Before anyone says anything about not getting enough uptravel, keep in mind, the tire tilts dramatically when you allow the other side to droop a lot, so this is appropriate when its actually loaded up off camber.
All I can do is say look up N2O's thread: "LOW COG suspension tips/tricks".... 36" swampers in 3.5" lift AND it can still flex out... ¿What?