4.25" on stock control arms, does this look bad?
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
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From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by cdawall
You are missing the entire point. Adjustable or not the reason the arms are not 3" tall is because the larger the control arm the less room it has to travel. The stock arms only have so much down travel due to hitting the control arm/shock mount on the axle end. All aftermarket arms I have ever seen are smaller. They WILL flex better due to design why do you think your rough country arms are bent and tubular? Why do you think there is an offset on the end of everyone else's arms were the axle side mount meets the tube? In all honesty being adjustable has nothing to do with it and I only recommended them because if you change your lift height it is kind of nice to be able to readjust the control arm to the correct length.
8" coils was an example pointing out the stock arms will bottom out on there mounts and not even lift to a full 8".
What does being a DD have to do with long arms, tubular control arms or anything? Whats wrong with tubular arms? stock arms are weak as **** if strength has anything to do with reasoning tubular arms are a lot thicker DOM than the folded sheet steel of stockers...
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,381
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From: EAFB, SD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Just a very oddball comment I don't think I have ever seen someone complain about tube arms. Just FYI Rancho made a set of square arms that were tough as ****. Got a set of those in my garage, they don't offer the same range of motion as my teraflex tubular arms, but they got the job done and there was no way in hell I was breaking them.
CF ADMIN

Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 34,088
Likes: 257
From: Lantana, Fl
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.Slow
Originally Posted by cdawall
Just a very oddball comment I don't think I have ever seen someone complain about tube arms. Just FYI Rancho made a set of square arms that were tough as ****. Got a set of those in my garage, they don't offer the same range of motion as my teraflex tubular arms, but they got the job done and there was no way in hell I was breaking them.
Originally Posted by cdawall
Just a very oddball comment I don't think I have ever seen someone complain about tube arms. Just FYI Rancho made a set of square arms that were tough as ****. Got a set of those in my garage, they don't offer the same range of motion as my teraflex tubular arms, but they got the job done and there was no way in hell I was breaking them.
Are the rancho ares long or short? Do you want to sell them? If so pm me.
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,173
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Ride quality on the street... Long arms are undeniably the best way to go for both that, and articulation. Why would you spend money on a "to get you there for now" upgrade when that money could just go towards getting your long arms sooner rather than getting spent to put a part on you're going to take right back off anyway.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 227
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From: Tell City, IN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
That's the first part of your post that made any sense at all mate... and it's exactly what I was saying all along, adjustable arms have nothing to do with it. The stock caster adjustment is on the back of the bracket at the unibody end... it's already there... back those 10mm nuts out, slide your arms forward, lock em down and drive it until you can get your long arms...
Ride quality on the street... Long arms are undeniably the best way to go for both that, and articulation. Why would you spend money on a "to get you there for now" upgrade when that money could just go towards getting your long arms sooner rather than getting spent to put a part on you're going to take right back off anyway.
Ride quality on the street... Long arms are undeniably the best way to go for both that, and articulation. Why would you spend money on a "to get you there for now" upgrade when that money could just go towards getting your long arms sooner rather than getting spent to put a part on you're going to take right back off anyway.
I had to buy lca's to correct caster angle, and while i plan on getting long arms, $150 to get it to drive without death wobble is worth it even if 6 months from now i drop $800 plus on a long arm upgrade.
Last edited by tavish_g; Nov 16, 2011 at 04:12 PM.
Originally Posted by Donnie_K
Most of the adjustable arms I've seen are straight though, not bent. My RC lift came with longer lower control arms with a bend to them... they're not adjustable.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 759
Likes: 2
From: Florida
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
"dont get lost or too over-whelmed... do some more research "on your own" to understand how suspension systems work (not just xj specific either)... once u get the basics, go from there, one step at a time... that philosophy is essential if u want to be doing the work to ur rig urself & getting the performance/ride quality/capability u'r after
i hope u understand, im not trying to be condescending... we've all been there, new/young & unaware (****, at 25, i'm pretty sure i still am, but i have picked up some things along the way)
so, things u "need" for a reliable daily driver with near-factory characteristics... dont just jump on the long arm band-wagon (no offense to all u with LA's, i'm not denying the ride/flex/OFF-ROAD capability is amazing)... go with drop brackets...
Serious Offroad supplies these, made by Rubicon Express (u'd also need the Support Braces, at the bottom of that page)
Rough Counrty's CA Drop Brackets
Rocky Road's CA Drop Brackets... also READ THE INFO, its not just a marketing gimmick, they're FACTS
like stated, control arms should be as close to parallel with the body/road as possible... that's the main reason y long arms give such a better ride... the mounting to the body is pushed back, making the arm longer & the angles less obtuse
as for rear suspension ride quality, like previously stated, 45* shackle angle is optimal (thats the rear-most part of the leaf springs, where they connect to the body/leaf spring mount... if straight up & down, the rides' gonna feel "stiff" because the leaf isnt cycling smoothly... u hit a bump & it's directly transmitting into the body instead of smoothly rotating the shackle/leaf spring joint)... look into relaocation brackets
Rough Country's bolt on brackets
HD Offroad Engineering's bolt on brackets
do research first tho... getting the drop brackets can provide just as good articulation as Long Arms... for that tho, u will need longer brake lines, longer shocks, track bar relocation/conversion (relocated axle mount, drop frame mount, heim end(s), or double shear frame mount)... but then all that causes other things to be modified...
so like i said, get familiarized... let it be fun, not overwhelming & confusing"--
Thank you for the detailed response!!!! What part of CT are you from? I'm from Bristol and plan on moving back home one day.
i hope u understand, im not trying to be condescending... we've all been there, new/young & unaware (****, at 25, i'm pretty sure i still am, but i have picked up some things along the way)
so, things u "need" for a reliable daily driver with near-factory characteristics... dont just jump on the long arm band-wagon (no offense to all u with LA's, i'm not denying the ride/flex/OFF-ROAD capability is amazing)... go with drop brackets...
Serious Offroad supplies these, made by Rubicon Express (u'd also need the Support Braces, at the bottom of that page)
Rough Counrty's CA Drop Brackets
Rocky Road's CA Drop Brackets... also READ THE INFO, its not just a marketing gimmick, they're FACTS
like stated, control arms should be as close to parallel with the body/road as possible... that's the main reason y long arms give such a better ride... the mounting to the body is pushed back, making the arm longer & the angles less obtuse
as for rear suspension ride quality, like previously stated, 45* shackle angle is optimal (thats the rear-most part of the leaf springs, where they connect to the body/leaf spring mount... if straight up & down, the rides' gonna feel "stiff" because the leaf isnt cycling smoothly... u hit a bump & it's directly transmitting into the body instead of smoothly rotating the shackle/leaf spring joint)... look into relaocation brackets
Rough Country's bolt on brackets
HD Offroad Engineering's bolt on brackets
do research first tho... getting the drop brackets can provide just as good articulation as Long Arms... for that tho, u will need longer brake lines, longer shocks, track bar relocation/conversion (relocated axle mount, drop frame mount, heim end(s), or double shear frame mount)... but then all that causes other things to be modified...
so like i said, get familiarized... let it be fun, not overwhelming & confusing"--
Thank you for the detailed response!!!! What part of CT are you from? I'm from Bristol and plan on moving back home one day.
Originally Posted by Joedirt12
The ones I've just got are both bent. Upper and lower. And the lower ones are adjustable. I'll post picks this weeken for you to see
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