3in RC Lift install myself?

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Sep 14, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #16  
You NEED a 3/4 in. socket set & a 2-3 foot length of pipe (cheater bar).I used this on my frame mount leaf spring bolts.I was using my legs to break the bolt loose & I almost didn't get it out.That was with about a month of PB Blaster sprayed on all the bolts.
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Sep 14, 2012 | 10:12 PM
  #17  
i would also suggest using a hand wrench when breaking the upper rear shock bolts...i got lazy and tried an impact wrench...it worked great except i only got half the bolt out (the head)...a day later i finally managed to drill the bolt out and re-tap the hole....
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Sep 14, 2012 | 10:32 PM
  #18  
have you kids ever heard of map gas?
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Sep 15, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #19  
Cross member studs
I found the easiest way to remove the cross member studs is with a simple 10"-12" pipe wrench. You can get one from Harborfreight for less than $10.00 if you don't already have one. It pulls them out in literally 15 seconds. Just remember before you loosen the bolts on the cross member that you need to support the tranny's weight with a jack or something. I installed the RC 3" kit on my 98, 2 weeks ago. It was not hard but just give yourself plenty of time. I did it without help with air tools in about 8-9 hours. Use LOTS of PB BLASTER. It was my first lift kit installation. It was an educating experience. A helper besides my 9 year old would have been great. Good luck.
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Sep 15, 2012 | 07:09 PM
  #20  
Ive started the PB Blaster Soaking Process... will keep that up till I decide to give it a go.
Thanks for all the tips.
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Sep 15, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #21  
My 99 had no problems until I got the the rear. Upper shock bolts broke (two, one on each side). Do you know how to drill and tap? I recommend a cheap harbor freight tap and die set. I bought one and still use it today whether its for suspension or an easy bumper install. Spray the hell out of your rear shock bolts and the two leaf bolts. Those can also be not so fun.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #22  
I say you should so it its not hard I'm 17 and did it I a day with a buddy and the only problem I had was the upper shock mounts breaking which I just welded in bar pin eliminators up there. Also I used ratchet straps to compress my coils it made it really easy
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Sep 17, 2012 | 07:16 PM
  #23  
I need to get a Welder
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Sep 17, 2012 | 08:06 PM
  #24  
Quote: I need to get a Welder
You start?
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Sep 17, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #25  
8-10 hours is right,with no air tools.It is a great feeling of accomplishment when you are finished.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #26  
I am still hitting everything with PB Blaster.
Planning to start Sunday - Monday.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 08:35 PM
  #27  
The truth
So I gotta tell you, I looked under there, and saw years of rust, and gave it about an hour before I realized this was more than I wanted to get into. Not because of difficulty, it's actually so stupidly simple. Just an R&R really. But before anyone knocks me, I'm not made of money, but I am a sensible guy. I saw the writing on the wall, and found a local XJ expert that was more than happy to do it for me. Done in an afternoon, including a new track bar, and cost me very little. I LOVE to work on my sh**, but I also know what isn't worth the task.
Best of luck. It's very good feeling when you conquer this, but I wanted instant gratification this time and this project.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 09:17 PM
  #28  
It took me about 8 hours to do mine and about 2 weeks to get the shiz eating grin off my face.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #29  
Quote: 8-10 hours is right,with no air tools.It is a great feeling of accomplishment when you are finished.
That's how long it took me....over the course of about a month since it isn't my daily driver and I was in no hurry between rusted and seized bolts.

The Mrs. said she'd hate to see how long it would take me to rebuild an engine.
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Sep 17, 2012 | 10:21 PM
  #30  
8 hours is what it took me and thats with all the trips to the hardware store to get broken bolts and food and using only hand tools
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