BatmanXJ

I have a buddy that is going to lift to 6.5 LA and want to go to 35 inch TSL Swamper Bias


All of the cons to going with 35s on stock axels? This is not a DD. It is strictly and off-road rig.

Driving style: Technical, Light on the skinny pedal.

Most often terrain: Trails, ORV park in the mountains. Not much mud.


My list:

Cons:
Stopping- with stock brakes
Power-Engine without gears
Gears-without stroked (I suggested atleast 4.56s)
Unit Bearings- Weak on stock size lol
Would have to use 4-low everywhere on trails, Otherwise the tranny/motor/tcase would have to work extra hard
Steep hills without running start even in 4low could be difficult.
Steering- stock steering box= very ugly when it rips off its mount
Axles-D-30 would likely bend and brake without being sleeved and trussed
C8.25 would likely handle his type of driving IMO



As I am sure some have have done the set up with good results. What are some other possible issues that are alot higher going that big. Keep in mind without upgrading the parts how long would it last?

ckysodkorn_xj

i ran 35's for a day and a half on stock gears 8.25. i hated it. i had to brake 50% harder and farther back took alot more pounding on the skinny for wheel spin. not to menchion gas mileage, even on the trail its semi important. i would sugest 4.88's. but everything else u have menchioned is correct.

Atmos

I really wouldn't run bigger than 35's without WJ brake upgrade/ knuckles. I don't like my stock brakes currently on 35's but when going down technical hills I usually shift into neutral for much better brake control. it's manageable

the rest would be chromo shafts and aftermarket ujoints with full circle clips. I'll let you know how long mine lasts without any sort of truss or gusseting... steering sucks I've got crossover waiting to go in. 4.56/auto aren't deep enough on the street for my preference but I have plenty of power off road. no problems crawling slow up steep rocks

a few people run trussed D30's and 37" tires unlocked. I personally have wheeled with a guy stock 3.55 gears no truss D30 on 40's.. his rig is gutless even in 4LO. but the axle just wont die. I know another guy with 36" iroks D30 sleeved, gusset, trussed, locked, 4.88's, WJ knuckles and hes having good success with good stopping power. it gets pricey though

personally I'd rather have locked 35's and not have to worry so much. lockers and that tire size will take him most places

Slim357

Buddy of mine snapped his axle at the tcase and axle yoke on the rear up at our local orv park because he had stock gears

OttawaXJ

35s COMPLETELY stock not changing anything would be horrible.

That being said, 20$ to brace the steering box, 60$ for unibody stiffeners and simply truss the D30 front and you'll be fine. just bring some spare shafts.

I know lots of people running 35s on D30s without issue, I know two people running 35s on a DANA 35 that have never broken a shaft even when rock crawling. And they're lincoln locked. So take internet advice(including my own) with a grain of salt.

Xj88

I run 35s on a LP 30 and a 29 Spline 825..no issues.
I dont hammer down too often, but when I have and havent broken anythign.. yet.

The 8.25 is fine with 35s, the D30 isnt the best idea, but its not going to explode going over a pebble either.

355s and 35s is kinda sucky..but I dont mind it.

Will be regearing sooner than later and either going full widths or waggy 44s.

holycaveman

When I went to 33's with stock gearing and brakes I noticed a substantial loss of power and braking.

Right now I am am saving up for 4:88 s. For a 4speed auto I think the gearing would be perfect with 33’s.

shawn_00x

I run 35's on stock gears and locker up front. I sure miss the power when trying to clean mud out of the tires. Just crawling it works fine.

Slim357

How do you like a front locker over having a rear locker

shawn_00x

It works ok but the rear is getting locked next. That way I have it all I find I need the rear locked just as much as I need the front.

Slim357

Nice im trying to decide between front or rear lockers

shawn_00x

I did the fronts on all of my rigs first. I just seems that I always hang up mid length of the jeep so the front can dig me out of trouble. Also coming out of mud holes I can get to the dry spot and pull me on out. Maybe it's just in my head but I like locking the front first. That and it's cheaper

Atmos

Go front for sure. From various results of local wheelers, front locker pulls you over way more **** than the rear can push you over. Plus a lunch box front is cheap, easy, and you won't feel it in 2wd

Slim357

Good to know and the front is way cheaper. Im thinking I may lock the rear one day but mot sure if that would be a good idea for a DD

Four play

^^^^^

I would suggest steering box brace if you put front locker in.

C-rock frame stiffener and m.o.r.e steering box brace.