Whats up guys, I plan on putting on my procomp 3 inch lift for my cherokee next week and want to learn a little more before I throw it on. The kit came with lower control arms, new coils, add a leaf spring, 4 new shocks, and a bracket that lowers the trackbar I believe. What else do I need to do to the car? I know I may have to drop the transfer case and relocate the front brake lines. Do I need a longer rear brake line if im taking the rear swaybar off? Also do I need to extend the front sway bar links (if so what does this do)?

 

you shouldnt have to extend the brake lines. you may not have to lower the tcase, only if you get vibs. some rigs are different. so do some dont. with a 3" lift you really dont have to start changing things out until you go 4"+ make sure u spray everything down before you start loosening bolts. expect some to break, and defently plan on the rear upper shock mount to break on you. make sure u start early in the morning, if this is your first lift it will probably take u a good 10+ hours. its a good thing to have a friend to help out to and a couple beers nver hurt either the swaybar links will be fine, but u should get some quick discos or make some. once you get your lift on make sure you get an alignment within 500 miles. also when working dont be in the middle of doing something and take a break. continue what you are doing first, that way things dont get lost or you dont forget to tighten something. when i did my lift the rear went smoothly and the front was a pita. as far as the rear swaybar, ditch it. you dont need it and you wont notice any difference in handling. i have a RC 3" lift. and i didnt have to touch my brakelines, nor my trackbar. only thing i did was install leafs, coils, shocks. and lca's thats it, and i have no problems. again every rig is different. good luck man

 

defiantly want to relocate the brake lines!!! (you to jeepxj19)

for the front just unbolt them stretch the bend and bolt the bracket back up for the rear the best way is to use a new flex hose i believe you want one from a Dakota or YJ

 

I have had my fully flexed, and nvr a problem with either the front and rear brakes.

 

Better to play it safe than sorry. Grab the front lines from a 95 YJ and the rear from a 96 dakota. $50 is well worth the extra confidence that I'm not gonna stretch my lines when I'm running no rear and a disconnected front sway bar off road.

 

I just have relocated front brackets. Just drill a hole lower in the subframe and you should be OK.

Cycle the front when you do the lift, see if they need to be dropped or replaced.

I agree with the Dakota rears, though.

 

purchase a MAPP torch...


as for brake lines... this worked for me in the rear

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoBrakeExtension.htm


this for the front

http://liftyourxj.com/tweaks.html#BrakeLines


if the rear shock bolts break (and they WILL) just pull up your carpet and cut open the area above the shock, then twist the old nut off (it is lightly welded) and throw bolts thru and nuts on the outside

DO NOT use that bracket... they are nothing but trouble... instead try this...

START with the wheels straight

1.) disconnect your track bar at the axle side

2.) optional, use a welder to fill in the original axle side track bar mount hole... then use an angle grinder to smooth it out

3.) use your body weight the bounce the truck back and forth by the fenders, do this on both side of the truck

4.) jump up and down a few times on the front bumper

5.) repeat step #3

6.) push the track bar back into place... and mark the center of the mount... if you did this right the mark will be to the right of the stock hole...

7.) drill the new hole, best to do a pilot hole first

8.) remount your track bar...



next you need to do a front end alignment

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

 

Don't cut up your floor! If your rear upper shock bolts break, use a punch to get the broken stud out. Then use mechanics wire to fish new bolts. Takes about 10 minutes per side. When i did my 3" lift (my first lift) I started at 9am and finished at 9pm with occasional breaks. No worries man you'll be fine! We're here if you need us!

 

thanks guys! im kinda nervous about this upper shock mount breaking Do i have to buy a new one? sounds complicated, also do i have to remove the front driveshaft to drop the axle all the way down to get the coil springs out or can I leave the driveshaft connected?

 

from what I was told and reading you don't have to take out the drive shaft just take out the front bolts to the lower control arms...

 

When installing my 3.5" RE I had to cut the rear floor for the upper shock bolts because there was no other way. Rust-welded sucks. Maybe you can use an air hammer.

For the front axle, no need to disconnect the front shaft like stated to change the lower arms.

 

thanks, do i need to buy a new rear upper shock mount? do i need to weld anything?

 

We just did my buddy's91 and it was not rust free. The upper shock mounts were no problem they just unbolted and the nuts were still in place for re install. Liberal use of weasel **** the day or week before is a good plan. You can roll under with a flashlight right on the street without jacking it up and spray away. The front leaf spring bolts were fused to the bushings and caused big problems and the welder was employed to clean up after... another story... the nuts on the back were dislodged when the bolt was restrained by the bushing. The bolts needed to be cut out of their prison and the blind pocket the useless nuts were trapped in needed to be opened, nuts replaced (and tacked) and welded closed after. Hope to avoid that!

 

I just did a 4" on my 2000 and shock bolts came out ok but had to cut front bolts on rear springs as they were frozen in the bushings.

 

I had a 3in rough country fully flexed all the time never had any problems with break line length. At 3in you won't need a t case drop you should be fine