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The only things I added to the kit were a 1" t-case drop and I had to replace the bushings on the top of my front axle that were shot, and needed to be replaced anyways. I installed the kit myself, so my cost was just the cost of the kit.
Super nice ride and super flexy:
The ride comfort on road is awesome, especially if you daily it.
I would recommend avoiding a tcase drop unless its a temporary fix. Sye is a far better option as it doesn't mess with the front shaft angles.
it is, I didn't do it at first and blew out my ujoints and the seals on my t-case due to driveline vibrations. So the 1" tcase was to preserve that repair work while I saved up for the SYE, and engine rebuild. I don't daily it, in fact I hasn't gotten more than 1 mile on it in the last 3 months...
I did the Rubicon Express 3.5" with full leaf packs, the Rubicon Express shocks, and a PORC SYE with junkyard driveshaft for about $1100. In my opinion, that kit is made of some high quality parts.
Turbo XJ is correct you do need to make sure the steering is all in good shape "Before" you start on any lift. If you don't any problems will be magnified 5-10 fold after a lift.
If you need new Tie Rods don't use the stock ones got a full set 3 pcs. for a mid. 90's V-8 Grand Cherokee they are many times stronger than stock and a direct bolt-in to boot for your XJ.
I'm really interested in that metal cloak kit but having a basic lift already, my truck has other priorities that need taken care of first. But if I was starting from scratch, I'd heavily consider that kit. I'd probably opt for a double shear track bar though, and go with the jks sway bar disco's instead of metal cloaks. They seem to have the best setup as far as ease of disconnect/reconnect and they don't pop like a lot of others do.
But here's the thing: installing a basic lift kit isn't reserved for master mechanics. It can be totally DIY. If you have a strict budget of 2k or so, I'd get a simple lift kit, and spend the rest of the money on tools to do it. That way in the future, you have tools to tackle more advanced procedures and most importantly, you know how your suspension works. If you get a wobble or creak or bind somewhere, you'll be much more prepared to diagnos and fix the problem.