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After having to repair my rusted rocker, replace both front fenders for dents so bad the doors barely opened, header panel for cracks, and rear quarter panel for rust. I'd rather not have to do any more exterior repairs and I'm looking to coat my XJ in more armour than it should ever need. So while weight is of course a factor I am looking for strength overall.
I'm currently looking at the sliders provided by BlueLakeOffRoad, specifically these two sliders.
Do not buy anything off BlueLakeOffRoad/tactical armor group its the same company with two names.They are known for making crap that don't fit and taking months to ship out.Look at http://aresfabrication.com/?page_id=340 they are around the same price and i trust them more.Or if you want full rocker coverage http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/XJSL/XJSL-CR.html
I didn't realise it was a two faced company. Had issues with what seemed like a infinite faced HID company before. Want to avoid that of possible. Those JCRs look amazing though.
It comes down to the type of wheeling your doing on what rock sliders you need.Moab style kinda rocks you want the tightest fitting sliders you can.More of the woods you want the rub rail on the side that should push some stuff away from your body.
It comes down to the type of wheeling your doing on what rock sliders you need.Moab style kinda rocks you want the tightest fitting sliders you can.More of the woods you want the rub rail on the side that should push some stuff away from your body.
Well I'm also interested in having enough pushing out to help my girl into the jeep. And I would see a lot of woods with this jeep.
For reference here are JCR StageII sliders with tube step. Approx 40 pounds each. Designed to take the weight of jeep, or be used for recovery using a hi-lift.
Most importantly, sliders preserve the rocker panel and doors, by adding integrity and protection to a vulnerable area.
Which is better for the XJ appears to be your question.
So look at doing 2x6, 3/16" wall rectangular tubing. Cut out your old rockers and weld it in place.
As for strength of DOM vs Box Tubing that's a different matter, however, neither will fail you in performance when using the proper size and wall thickness.
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
DOM is not necessarily any stronger.. it's only real advantage over HREW is that is is manufactured within tighter specifications (OD,ID,wall thickness) and that it is clean (no mill scale/welded seam). It is also much easier to machine. If you were building something super precise, it is the way to go. However, there is a line of thought out there that because DOM (drawn over mandrel) has no visible welded seam, and is drawn cold (makes metal slightly more dense and HARDER) it is stronger. DOM is resistance welded prior to being drawn cold over a mandrel so at one point in its life, it does indeed have a seam. Working with the stuff every single day, I can tell you that the composition of the steel and when/where the steel itself is milled is going to be a much bigger factor. We have done several tests using a 500ton press on DOM/HREW round tube for customers to see if there is any difference in the PSI it takes to bend similar materials and the difference mill to mill/ heat# to heat# is greater than HREW vs DOM (It is not much) of a similar composition. Now if you are comparing two different alloys (as most do when comparing DOM to HREW) there is obviously going to be differences in hardness/strength. Just because something says DOM does not mean that it is worth 3.5x the price. Some schedule 80 pipe is going to be stronger, albeit a bit heavier and way cheaper than either
Sorry to go off topic... haha. In any case, I have slammed my JCR sliders into rocks, slid off and around trees, jacked out of snow using them... you are not going to break any decently constructed rock sliders out there unless you are airborn. I can't speak for the ebay ones but any that bolt to the unibody and the pinch seam will do just fine for you. The thickness of the wall is the largest factor in strength when bashing tube into rocks. Dont pay extra for anything that says DOM unless you need too.
I used 1x2 3/16 tubing for mine. I didn't cut my rockers out and I'm happy with them. The tubing was free to me so I wasn't gonna complain. I've used them all over SoCal and never had an issue hitting them on rocks. If I were to do it again, I'll cut out the rockers and weld in the tubing.
10-05-2015, 02:00 AM
Square Tube vs. DOM Tube Sliders
