Smonday

Hi all, I have a 1999 Cherokee that is pretty much stock except for the engine. I have that rebuilt at about 250,000 miles as I had broke a piston. Currently I have 265,000 miles on it.

I am currently considering turning this into a project vehicle. Want to repair all the rust and lift the vehicle approx. 4"

Want the opinion of folks that had been there, done that and wondered if there is any pitfalls or warnings out there. I want to locate a lift kit with spring replacement vs. adding a leaf as the springs are all original. I would really like to install a complete kit, control arms, springs, bushings, the works.

Also, any help with tips regarding the replacement of floor panels and body panels. I need to replace the tailgate, rocker panes, and all four floor panes. Probably need to replace the seat risers too.

Can anyone recommend a quality kit or a manufacturer? Links would be wonderful!!

Any advice and or help would be appreciated.

Tsaani97xj

Been there, done that advice.

Fix your rust/body problems. Before you go down the lift road make sure you have budgeted for recovery, gears/lockers, SYE and driveshaft. While doing your rust repairs it would also be a great time to do frame stiffeners. The lift part is the easiest and really cheapest part of a build. Brand of lift is preference and there is a lot to choose from. Staying away from the highly advertised and cheap kits also recommended.

Best of luck.

Turbo X_J

How much rust and where exactly?
pics would be great.

andrewmp6

The whole floor the seat risers and the rockers is a lot of rust repairs,It might be cheaper to find a clean shell or different jeep.

Fred/N0AZZ

These are major items of rust and the frame needs to be inspected closely.


It may well be cheaper to find another XJ 97-99 with bad drive train and build it, then use your old one for parts.

Smonday

Thanks guys, I know I shouldn't but I've been driving this Cherokee since 2001. Besides, I just rebuilt the motor at 255,000 miles (currently at 268,000). I am looking for a temporary Cherokee to drive while I do the rust/lift on the current one. Ya never know, I just may put the life in the replacement and swap out the motor. I'll try to put up some pics of the vehicle tomorrow.

bad_idea

I did the floor pans on my 79 Camaro, lot of work. Unless that Cherokee has a lot of sentimental value, get another one. You can find Cherokees for $400 all day long. You can't put floor pans in much cheaper than that, especially considering the value of your time. If you get another one, you can do all the work on it while you still drive this one. Then when everything is straight, swap the motor and trans over.

As far as lift, I pieced mine together with used parts from CL and the forum. Was fun hunting for the parts. Cheap too. Learned a lot too researching what parts to use. Jeep drives very good now.

Smonday

Ok, here are some pics of the underside.



Drivers side front.



Drivers side intermediate.



Drivers side rear.



Passenger rocker panel.



Passenger rear.



Passenger front.
Bottom from passenger side.

Fred/N0AZZ

I would replace rather than repair, you have the main things the complete engine/driveline. You just waited a bit to long to fix those problems before they got that bad.

Smonday

Fred, I'm probably going to find Cherokee between 98 and 2001 with fewer miles and less rust and transfer the engine to that one. I just want to be sure to get one with Chrysler 8.25 differential. Anything else to look for in the new rig?

salad

Good call, the underside of my Ontario XJ looks (looked) almost identical to that. Note the overlap in the frame rail. Mine cracked there - completely rotten out inside. The other side of the trnamission cross member is about a zillion layers of sheet metal instead of an actual plate. It hoarded rust pretty well!!!

2000 and 2001 have a few issues. They use a low-pinion front axle, but you could swap yours over. This is disadvantageous for lifting. The largest problem is that the early casting 0331 model head is prone to cracking. You can swap over your newly rebuilt engine if you get an adapter to make the exhaust ports match up.

1998 is basically identical to a '99, with a few small exceptions. (Cruise control wiring, intake manifold, cable-operated HVAC blend door, all minor really)

bad_idea

No need to find one with a 8.25 out back, easy enough to swap yours over. If you have the d35 in yours, then put the 8.8 out of an Explorer in it. I did the 8.8 in mine. Easy swap if you can weld.

andrewmp6

I wouldn't even look at mileage i would look for a rust free roller or a xj that needs a engine or trans and use yours for parts.