wood question
#3
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x2 on the MDF. It's about $30 for a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" I used glue and wood pegs (srcews can rip out of the stuff easily) on the last box I made. Make sure you resin it though, cuz any moisture will expand it quickly.
Last edited by no rdplz; 04-24-2012 at 01:36 PM.
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#8
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I used 3/4". Make sure you know before hand whether you want to port it or keep it sealed. Sealed boxes can be smaller (which is nice for XJ's) and give a crisper sound while a ported box needs to be larger and gives a louder, heavier sound. if you plan to do a ported box, make sure you research sub frequency/port size specs before building it.
#10
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Depending on the application, I use 3/4" or 1" ULMDF (the "UL" part stands for ultra-light). It's less prone to splitting and weighs in at about 1/3 standard MDF. Make sure to pre-drill all screw holes and keep them in the exact center of the end grain of the piece being attached to prevent bulging or splitout when you drive the screw. ULMDF has other advantages... it's easier to cut and is less taxing on saw blades, it's slightly less likely to feather when painted or primed, it's easier to cut complex shapes with a jig saw because the wood doesn't offer as much resistance as conventional MDF. The drawbacks are that it's more expensive and slightly less rigid compared to MDF. As far as the rigidity goes, I've noticed no difference in sound quality or durability between the two. I recommend using 2 inch screws every four inches on 3/4" material.
I also recommend using a strong, wood glue like Gorilla (urethane based) or Titebond III (water based). Both of those will create a bonding joint stronger than the wood, itself (meaning that if you were to apply pressure to the joint, the wood would break before the glue joint).
Made entirely of 3/4 ULMDF
I also recommend using a strong, wood glue like Gorilla (urethane based) or Titebond III (water based). Both of those will create a bonding joint stronger than the wood, itself (meaning that if you were to apply pressure to the joint, the wood would break before the glue joint).
Made entirely of 3/4 ULMDF
#11
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok so here's my plans. I wanna put a guitar amp/speaker combo in the chubby hole. Im gonna remove speaker and amp from original box. Speaker box has to hold 8" speaker and amp will fit right above. Tomorrow im gonna dig in and start a build thread for it. For now here's a pic of donor amp im gonna be working with.
#12
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Speakers from instrument amps aren't the best solution but they'll obviously work. Just don't expect the same low-frequency response you'd get from a dedicated sub. Will the amp run on 12v? Something else to think about. You might be better putting that box on craigslist and using the money to buy an automotive sub and amp.
#13
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sorry for the confusion. the guitar amp combo wont be ran through my stock audio system. Im gonna run a power inverter to power it and it will be used to play guitar only for when I go camping and stuff.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0