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I got advice on this forum saying I shouldnt upgrade the shafts Originally Posted by nismo5
i would go the d44 rear also its 30 spline and tons of aftermarket support and there bolt in if you find an xj 44 and a disc break swap is pretty easy and if you're gonna keep the 30 in the front get chromo shafts or atleas the shafts out of a 97-99 or some other models with abs they have bigger 760 u joints
because if you have to have a weak point in the axle, it should be the shaft
because its the easiest and cheapest to replace
if you upgrade, it means that something else is going to be the breaking point and its probably going to be more expensive.
but I'm really not sure if thats true.
Junior Member
This isnt speaking from experience, but what you say sounds very true. One way you might be able to get around that is by getting something like the warn locking hubs, and the idea behind that is the hubs will break before anything major in the axle. Hubs are also a lot easier and cheaper to replace than shafts, or something inside the pumpkin.
CF Veteran
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a guy down the street built an xj last summer. custom 6" long arm, snorkel, custom welded bumpers, onboard air... blah blah blah.... he had the 36" iroks originally on d44 rear and hp30 front. he replaced everything in the d30, not just the shaft, so that breaking points wouldnt be the issue... and he has warn locking hubs...and disc brake conversion. so by the experience ive seen, running a locker that replaces the whole carrier, upgrading the shafts and u-joints, and running locking hubs is more than good enough for 33'sOriginally Posted by CatFishSoup
This isnt speaking from experience, but what you say sounds very true. One way you might be able to get around that is by getting something like the warn locking hubs, and the idea behind that is the hubs will break before anything major in the axle. Hubs are also a lot easier and cheaper to replace than shafts, or something inside the pumpkin.
Senior Member
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because if you have to have a weak point in the axle, it should be the shaft
because its the easiest and cheapest to replace
if you upgrade, it means that something else is going to be the breaking point and its probably going to be more expensive.
but I'm really not sure if thats true.
if you're worried about getting better shafts then just get the shafts with the bigger 760 u joints and grind them down or have them machined to accept full circle clips or tack weld the caps on so the shaft is the same strength but atleast you dont get stuck in the middle of nowhere because a u joint cap came off or the smaller u joint gave out its just a small upgrade and if you blow up you're ring and pinion in the d30 the only reason it should be expensive to replace is cause you obviously need a bigger axle Originally Posted by jskwibble1
I got advice on this forum saying I shouldnt upgrade the shafts because if you have to have a weak point in the axle, it should be the shaft
because its the easiest and cheapest to replace
if you upgrade, it means that something else is going to be the breaking point and its probably going to be more expensive.
but I'm really not sure if thats true.
CF Veteran
d30 locking hubs from warn are crap.
the hub is WAY to small and very easy to break, especially when locked
the hub is WAY to small and very easy to break, especially when locked
CF Veteran
Quote:
iro makes an almost alloy kit that could help as wellOriginally Posted by nismo5
if you're worried about getting better shafts then just get the shafts with the bigger 760 u joints and grind them down or have them machined to accept full circle clips or tack weld the caps on so the shaft is the same strength but atleast you dont get stuck in the middle of nowhere because a u joint cap came off or the smaller u joint gave out its just a small upgrade and if you blow up you're ring and pinion in the d30 the only reason it should be expensive to replace is cause you obviously need a bigger axle