Catching up from more than one day:
Replaced clutch master/slave hydraulic system. Lifetime O'Reilly part failed at the seal for the master. Also, the gasket on the firewall flange doesn't stop any water from passing, so added Permatex Gray #2 non-hardening to that.
Replaced radiator twice. Old radiator was the copper/brass offering from Rock Auto that lasted six years. Replaced with a Murray from O'Reilly, lifetime warranty. It lasted 8 days. Appeared to leak from passenger side tank/core connection.
Replacement from O'Reilly looks more robust. The bands holding top plate to bottom plate seem to be a better solution than the first one.
One little item, the hose barb from the fill tube is larger than the 5/16" ID line that I have going to overflow tank. Heated that rubber line (I use high pressure rated fuel injection line) and shoved it on then added a Harbor Freight metal fuel injection line clamp over that. Note that if you do this, when the rubber cools it will form a strong connection and you have to cut it off, even if the barb is lubed with silicone spray.

I was intending to add a ground to the radiator ever since the last replacement. That might have saved me from doing this. Used a piece of 14 GA marine grade tinned wire. Attached with an eyelet to a battery ground on the inner fender by the battery, ran the several inches of stripped wire in from the front side of radiator core and twisted it secure to the core from the fan side, well away from the fan track.

Also, during install I remembered that a place in Northern Virginia some years ago failed to install whatever connects the top of the A/C condenser to the radiator through a pair of mounting holes on each assembly. I added grommets to the holes and then zip tied them together. It eliminated a whole bunch of rattles.

 

Rear was sagging really bad. There was also a lot of noise coming from the rear when I went over bumps. I think I found the problem.

 

quick disconnect feature? hahaha

 

I thought he cut em to get them off.. Perfect excuse for a lift!

 

Changed a thermostat on a 1990 xj half way through, i was like i should of paid a guy to do it lol it's been so long since i did one i forgot how annoying the tensioner situation is and how the belt blocks the screw on the bottom then dealing with the closed system hahaha, lots of fun. then l smoked it to find out the air duct hose is shot and pouring out smoke. what an exciting morning to say the least, and trying to find the part was a nightmare a 100 bucks later all that's left is ordering a gasket now and no idea where to get one so i started a thread. im having xj problems

 

Installed new gas struts on my '99 Cherokee's hatch. Although the old ones that came with the Jeep when I bought it in 2015 still had plenty of spring the upper mount on one of them broke apart. Scored a pair of closeout "Strongarm" brand struts on rockauto.com for under $6 each. Shipping was $7.99 but I was able to add a number of small items from the same warehouse for no additional shipping charge, including an air filter for another vehicle for 52 cents which turned out to be actually made by Purolator. (AutoZone wanted $24 each for their "Duralast" brand struts.)

 

These are the kind of deals I love

 

Went back over vacuum lines. Some time ago replaced the old cracking rubber with fuel injection rated fuel line, but always had trouble making the OEM smaller side seal. Was using zip ties. Today tried fuel injection line clamps from Harbor Freight, those worked.
got a bottle of Blaster Surface Shield for about $5 at Ollie's and used that on them. Didn't realize that's half price of most other places

 

Other things I always try to add when ordering from Rockauto are windshield wipers and light bulbs. Much less expensive than the parts stores and if coming from the same warehouse as my main order they add little or nothing to the shipping charge.

 

Had a friend come over and we ripped out the Bendix 9 abs on my 1990 xj.

Now it’s just tube cutting, flaring, bending, mounting, adjusting, bleeding. And then hopefully-breaking!

 

On the 1995:

• Wire brushing and primer on the rear end
• Primered the inside of the uniframe under passenger side floor.
• Key Parts full length passenger side floor pan fitted and ready to weld in
• Home made sheet metal repairs for under rear seat fitted and tacked
• More needle scaler work in rear
• Ordered a new gas tank - outside wasn't bad but inside was full of "stuff" and didn't look healthy

On the 1999:

• Dropped the gas tank and got up close and personal with some rust ugliness on the rear frame
• Got new tires mounted and ready to go
• Ordered some metal for the above mentioned frame ugliness.........Along with some 2x6 rectangular tube steel for rockers.
• Tested plasma cutter and it should do a fine job helping with cutting out the rust.
• Set up an old compressor tank for compressed air so I can needle scale without having to wait for my little compressor to recover. (but I really need (want) a bigger one)

 

A couple of odd recent items.
My steering wheel was cocked a good 20 degrees for years. Just noticed it is straight again. I suspect it was from fixing death wobble bushing and track bar (new track bar had rubber bushing, I replaced it with poly).

Also, ever since I changed the oil and used some ZDDP additive from AutoZone I had a CEL (P0420) that would not go away.
I tried CRC Guaranteed To Pass Emissions System Cleaner (12 oz), exactly as the instructions state, and the CEL has stayed out, not even any pending codes.
Also fixed a vacuum leak with a fuel injection fuel line clamp, rather than just jamming the ill fitting hose on the fitting.
Guessing that fix was from both operations.

 

Replaced the Cam Position Sensor.

Had the MIL come on with a P1391 Code. Ran just fine, but was hard starting all of a sudden.




Definitely bad! No idea how that magnet broke off and very surprised that it ran just fine after start-up.

Went with NAPA Echlin replacement, as MOPAR sensors are pretty much gone now from what I saw online. Crossing my fingers.

I took the stethoscope to it after starting it up and didn’t hear anything hitting or scraping it, so we’ll see what happens.

—Update—

Actually runs better now…. Had just a slight vibration in gear at stoplights, very smooth now. Makes me wonder how long it was like that since I just accepted the slight vibes for some time now.

 

Mine left me stranded last Sunday. I thought it was heat soak at first bit I don't hear the fuel pump. I also checked the fuel pump relay and that is not it either. When it's heat soak, I can smell gas. I really hope is not the pump as I am not looking forward to dropping the tank. I guess I'll start at the CPS and work from there.

 

This is my drill, because I'm bad at guessing - get your shop manual. Assuming your air filter is clean, spark plugs, cap & rotor and wires are good, check for dangling wires grounding. The wires coming up from the O2 to the fuel rail wiring harness are a good place to start. Then open your shop manual and test your sensors: the temp sensor, idle solenoid, MAP and TPS. In my experience, the crank position sensor is good - or you stranded by the side of the road - but test it anyway. If they are good and your throttle body is clean, move to the injectors: clean them and test the resistance for each one. You can pull them and use a 9v battery to produce a click unless it's defective.

It's MUCH cheaper to test then replace parts till it works right