One of those jobs I am dreading... My blend door flap is broke. If I put the fan on like 4, it will just blow into the dash area.

 

i was very careful to be sure the blend door was in the correct position when I closed up the heater box. It works great now. Blows really hot and goes where its supposed to go when you turn the dial.

get a new blend door before you tackle the job.

I may have to try to burp the system though. I noticed it creeping up to almost 210 if I sit idling too long.

its a job, that’s for sure. But I didn’t want to sell it without it being right.

 

Did you happen to use a guide/youtube video or something for the process?

210 is normal operating temp for these. When mine warms up, it is at 210 or just to the right of the center line, guessing that is like 212 or so.


For the blend door, I know Dodges used to have a fix where you didn't have to take the dash out but nothing ever came about for the XJ. I'll probably replace my heater core while I'm there as well. Though if mine is fine I kind of dont want to put a cheaper part in there than OEM. But it has been in there for over 25+ years. Mine is a 97.

 

I pushed the stupid half of foot of snow off it this morning =/

 

Interesting on the temp. Before I did the heater core, I ran just under the 210 hash mark, probably around 190. Today it stayed at the 190 since it was cooler out, I suppose.

I'll keep driving it and see how it does.

I did not watch any videos on taking it apart and I wrecked the air bag connector trying to remove it and had to buy a new clockspring to make the airbag light go off.

It is mostly just disconnecting any wiring that leads to the dash so you can pull the dash out and set it outside of the Jeep. I took several pics when I was taking it apart so I would remember how to route the wiring when it was time to re-assemble. Other than the wiring paths, the rest of it can only go back together one way for the most part.

I do feel like I got a decent heater core but I understand. OEM stuff is just better. If mine wasn't leaking or clogged up, I would not have replaced it. I bought a brass core and it really looks identical to the factory one I took out.

 

Do you happen to have a link to the heater core you used?

For the clock spring, my turn signals dont automatically turn off once I'm done turning. I thought that was due to a bad clock spring?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search/...e/heater-cores



Not sure on the clockspring. I know they work with the airbag, horn and cruise control.

 

Awesome thanks! I'll note that for when I do mine...if I ever do it lol

Here's a link for anybody else wanting it:
heater core sum-382200

 

The self-cancelling isn't down to the clockspring. Ordinarily, I'd say it was the lever, but as you've just done the clockspring, I think something's not gone quite right on re-assembly.

 

I've not done anything to the clockspring. I guess I got some bad info that the self-cancelling was due to a bad clockspring. So the lever has to do with the self-cancelling?

 

There are fingers on the clock spring that trip the self cancel feature so it could be either things.

 

aww interesting, ok, thanks!

 

I stand corrected.

My excuse, 'cos self cancelling turn signals pre-date clocksprings by about 100 years I couldn't see the need for one to interact (interfere?) with he other - but, then, I'm not an auto manufacturer, nor do I delight in making everything needlessly more complicated.

 

Smogged the jeep today, passed but ECU still showing "catalyst not ready". Maybe I should have sacrificed a chicken to gavin newsom.

 

Ditched the stock tcase linkage sine my long arm cross member twisted it. Install was easy even with the front driveline in place. Shifted through 2wd-4hi-N-4low no problem.