Finished the nickel copper brake line conversion. The $120 kit from AGS never arrived so I just bought a $30 roll of 3/16” NiCopp tubing and a small bag of 3/8 inverted flare nuts. I reused the odd sized flare nut at the proportional valve mounted under the master cylinder. The previous owner installed NiCopp lines from each or the rear drums to the “T” but the flare nuts were all corroded on so I had to cut and re-flare the ends. I hate flaring as I can never get them perfect and I have a nice tool set too.

 

Unfortunate about the cancer but you have to play the hand you have. Looking good!

 

I removed the aftermarket window tint from my xj. I didn't even realize it was tinted until I was cleaning them awhile back and when I lowered the glass, there was a thin "tinted" part that is normally not exposed. The old tint color had vanished from the rest of the glass.

It was easy, peasy to peel it off and only left a tiny bit of glue residue where I started the pull of each piece.

I still have the rear quarter/cargo glass to do tonight. If it even has any. I can't tell unless I feel for it on the inside.

My windows look way better now. Clear and shiny!

 

Did you pull it off your hatch glass?
When I wanted to get rid of the turned purple crappy tints the PO put on I got quote from the go to place in the area.
Was $250 to remove the old tints and put on new ones.
My front door windows were not tinted and tinting them was not in that price.
I didn't want them tinted anyway cause I don't know what the laws are in my state, didn't feel like finding out the hard way, and didn't care anyway.
Was thinking if I removed them maybe save a few bucks but couldn't picture pulling the tint off the hatch glass without screwing up the rear defogger wires.
Then I started poking around about factory Privacy Glass.
Turns out for $332 I was able to install that option in my '00.
Buying all the glass, having my glass guy remove the rear hatch glass from the donor Jeep, install it in mine, and new hatch glass molding.
Of course hatch glass molding was still available at that time and I did the doors and the cargo glass myself.
And to anybody that might care about doing there front windows if they have factory Privacy Glass.
Somebody once said 20% matches real good.
If you look close in the second shot you can see the crappy turned purple tints and the Privacy Glass in the rear door.

 

QUOTE=Ralph77;3686642]Did you pull it off your hatch glass?
When I wanted to get rid of the turned purple crappy tints the PO put on I got quote from the go to place in the area.
Was $250 to remove the old tints and put on new ones.
My front door windows were not tinted and tinting them was not in that price.
I didn't want them tinted anyway cause I don't know what the laws are in my state, didn't feel like finding out the hard way, and didn't care anyway.
Was thinking if I removed them maybe save a few bucks but couldn't picture pulling the tint off the hatch glass without screwing up the rear defogger wires.
Then I started poking around about factory Privacy Glass.
Turns out for $332 I was able to install that option in my '00.
Buying all the glass, having my glass guy remove the rear hatch glass from the donor Jeep, install it in mine, and new hatch glass molding.
Of course hatch glass molding was still available at that time and I did the doors and the cargo glass myself.
And to anybody that might care about doing there front windows if they have factory Privacy Glass.
Somebody once said 20% matches real good.
If you look close in the second shot you can see the crappy turned purple tints and the Privacy Glass in the rear door.

[/QUOTE]
I have not but I will check to see if it's tinted. I didn't even think about it. I'll check tonight. I like the idea of replacing the glass with factory tinted though. Something to look at in the future once I get the mechanicals taken care of.

 

Well like I said.
I was leery of the rear defogger so....
Oh and the hatch molding in N/A these days and has been for awhile.
So doing what I did with the hatch glass will take a little effort to find something to use.
There is a generic substitute that these guys use that looked pretty good in the pictures.
Start around 13:45.

 

I removed the tint from the rear side windows and hatch glass. The hatch film came off in one piece! I am very happy how much better the glass looks now. If it weren't for the scratches on the outside (caused by wheeling I'm sure), it would look like new.

I have never seen tint fade so much that you couldn't even tell it was there.

I like making progress on getting this thing back to factory configuration!

 

For window film, I've used one of those Shark steamers, works like a charm and super fast. Just steam and use glass cleaner after.

 

I started to use my heat gun to heat it up initially but then I found it peeled off without any heat needed.

 

I’ve always liked 70% up front as it is just enough tint so most people can’t see into your vehicle that easy. Quality window tints typically keep glass from exploding all over the place in the event of an impact. Any tint that is stronger than that makes it difficult (for me) to see the rear view mirrors properly after dark.

 

Going to pull off the rear tint on hatch (faded to the ugly purple) then have it matched to side quarter glass.

 

Make sure the new stuff is ceramic tint. will block so much heat.

 

You have a great looking Jeep! Really have always loved that '2 door' look. One thing I've noticed is the few 2-doors I've seen for sale, seem to mostly have a 'manual' transmission. Do you know if that was just a common configuration for the 2 door? I seldom see a 4 door with a manual. TY

 

Very good. I'm trying to get up the nerve to do at least my 'rear' lines. Tried to replace wheel cylinders on rear drums and the lines are practically 'welded' on both sides. Cannot try again until I'm ready to install new lines.

 

I did the rear lines on my '00.
The long line was crusty as hell.
It was easy.
I did not replace that short line off the proportioning valve that the long line connects too. It was still in good shape.
Used premade 3/16" nicopp and cut it down.
2 pieces with a union to the brake hose, new brake hose, and one premade piece to each wheel cylinder.
Now the flare that goes into that short line off the proportioning valve is not a regular flare.
I get confused about the different type of flares.
I would have to check my files but pretty sure I used this so I could just use the flare that came on the premade brake line.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_1441

And for a flaring tool I used this.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER161A

Was about half the price way back when and will only flare 3/16" line.
You can probably buy a similar looking tool cheaper off Amazon.
But the tool is great.
IMO foolproof and flares the nicopp lines like a dream.