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Forgot something about my radiator install today. The old radiator (not factory, replaces about 2004) was not mounted quite right. Nothing was holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, nor the bottom. Condenser was just flapping around in there.
New rad, I mounted the bottom right with the lower radiator dowels going through the lower condenser brackets and into the grommets in the lower support. The top, I didn't have the proper hardware (must have been lost by the shop that did that rad replacement) so I used some stout black zip ties to mate them. I did transfer over the top rubber idolaters and such too.
Yep, like Remo said, cowl intake. It draws air from under the windshield wipers. My intake was made my Spectre but they discontinued them. The filter is inside the bulge in the pipe above the valve cover. THOR also makes (made?) a version and many people have done homebrew versions. Give it a google. I really like the setup.
Got a 22 key code yesterday after filling up cooling system with cleaner and distilled water. Quadratec guide says it is the coolant temp sensor showing too high or too low voltage. That is the first time I've seen that description. Thought it was something with O2 before. Anyway, need to nail this one down quick because cold weather is coming in tonight.
Did the radiator flush over night (Royal Purple Royal Flush) and just a little bit of scale came out. It was likely from the block, because I blew out heater core separate. No rusty water or crud.
I do not recommend adding dye unless you are tracking down a leak. That stuff is pretty persistent.
There was no hardware on the old radiator (a replacement from 2003ish) for attaching the top of the AC condenser to the radiator, so I zip-tied them together through the holes where they are supposed to be mated.
Trimmed the new Gates hoses a little. Lower hose from the block side, upper hose from the radiator side. Now they fit skookum, no interference with anything. Sprayed down the clamps and such with silicone spray. Trying out these fancy constant tension hose clamps.
On plain distilled water with flush fluid, it as running on the cool side a lot. After washing out fluid mix and installing Prestone coolant at 50/50 mix, it runs just a hair under 210F.
BTW, checked at my local O'Reilly to see if they could test my old cap and they said they don't do that. Even though they have a test kit to rent that includes the gear to test the cap. Will check at their distro center near my office and see if they do that.
Got a 22 key code yesterday after filling up cooling system with cleaner and distilled water. Quadratec guide says it is the coolant temp sensor showing too high or too low voltage. That is the first time I've seen that description. Thought it was something with O2 before. Anyway, need to nail this one down quick because cold weather is coming in tonight.
You can test it. It has a specific resistance range it's supposed to be at for a given temperature. If you have a multimeter you can check it out cold and hot.
The reason I'm asking if it's a new sensor is because I had a code 22 thrown YEARS back. I pulled the sensor and saw it was discolored. Dark grey rather than shiny brass. Nothing you could wipe off or even feel. It's a long ways to town for another so with nothing else to do I used a 3M pad and polished it. Reinstalled it and the code was gone and has never come back on. I'm certain it's the original sensor. Mentioned it here but no one had tried it before (or since as far as I know). Wish I would have seen that chart and took a before and after reading. Although I can't prove it I still feel the tarnishing was the cause. Also there have never been additives in the cooling system. I'm the second owner and the original owner is a good friend so I'm sure of that.
The reason I'm asking if it's a new sensor is because I had a code 22 thrown YEARS back. I pulled the sensor and saw it was discolored. Dark grey rather than shiny brass. Nothing you could wipe off or even feel. It's a long ways to town for another so with nothing else to do I used a 3M pad and polished it. Reinstalled it and the code was gone and has never come back on. I'm certain it's the original sensor. Mentioned it here but no one had tried it before (or since as far as I know). Wish I would have seen that chart and took a before and after reading. Although I can't prove it I still feel the tarnishing was the cause. Also there have never been additives in the cooling system. I'm the second owner and the original owner is a good friend so I'm sure of that.
When I pulled the housing off to change the thermostat, I looked at it and it looked ok, just like old brass that has been sitting in radiator fluid. I suspect I didn't get the connector back on well, or rinsing everything off got something wet, but not sure what since I had it as waterproofed as you can get until I lost that blasted blue gasket.
Yesterday's test drive with antifreeze installed, new radiator, thermostat, and hoses, it took a while to get up to near 210F indicated, and it was about 65F ambient. Today, near freezing out and during my 12 min drive to work it might have gotten up to 195F when I arrived. After it cooled off and I took care of a work vehicle, went out and idled my Jeep until the temp stabilized (presuming that is 195F, since thermostat tested perfect), took about 12 minutes. Heat is working too, but seem to remember it hotter, like the other day when I was flushing.
Everything probably OK. Just not used to my cooling system being this efficient I suppose.
Drove the Jeep in the rain with the half doors to give it a quick/lazy wash from the RC mud and dust. Just made it home before the flurries started to come down.
Found the idler pulley squeaking when cold. Also has some.wobble to it. Ordered a new one
Was getting a gas smell and found a very small leak at the fuel pressure regulator. pulled it out and the original 25 year old orings finally gave up the ghost. Im guessing our recent spat of cold weather finally did them in. Found an oring in my parts pile to replace the outer o ring which stopped the leak but didnt have the inner oring so my fuel system wont hold pressure when the engine is off. Ordered a new Delphi branded unit
Changed oil 300 miles early cause i had the time. Rotella T4 10w30 and a mopar filter.
Fixed my taillights, found a bunch of threads but no real answers. Checked all the fuses, and no. 15 under the drivers side dash was blown, it’s a 20-rated fuse. So if anyone has taillights that aren’t working and opening the drivers door with the keys in it doesn’t make it buzz or beep or whatever it does, it’s most likely the no.15 fuse under the drivers side dash.
