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The wheel cylinders are just bare metal not painted so the rust on outside is normal . Inside is sealed and will be okay the boots on the ends keep the crap out they would be all nasty and covered in brake dust if they were bad or leaking and look more like this. Not saying I'm a expert or anything just trying to be helpful. I'm a certified mechanic and have been around a few brake jobs and from what I see I would not replace if it was mine is all I'm saying bye all means do what you are comfortable with you are the one driving it!
Today I sanded most of the body to prep for paint. But in the last two months I scored some rims with nice meaty tires for $200, and also fixed my division bar weatherseal with a $26 from amazon.
I'd love a link to that Amazon/division bar hack material.
Omix-Ada 12303.75 Front Left Hand Run Glass Seal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOTTLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cfy7BbB5RPZ8N
Thats the link to the window seal I used. I posted a pic below of the sections I cut it in which was basically where it was making the turns. I only got two useable pieces out of it and I also had to cut off the flap that goes over the outside of the metal in the door shell and the "elbows" to make a straight piece. With a little water to lube it up and some persuasion I was able to stuff it in the division bar channel and it's a darn good fit and allows the window to roll up and down with no issues. Worth the $26 bucks even if I have to redo it.
Today I sanded most of the body to prep for paint. But in the last two months I scored some rims with nice meaty tires for $200, and also fixed my division bar weatherseal with a $26 from amazon.
All new brakes up front (Raybestos parts) also put the new fender liners in and put new window wipers/scrapers on the front door windows. The old ones were so bad it has put permanent gouges in the drivers door window
I really need to replace all of seals rubber around the roll down/up windows.
Also got the no slip installed in the front diff and sealed up with a lubelocker gasket.
Took the kids to the park and stopped at one of the local Resiviours for some pics for COTM entry.
Washed off the initial sandin dust so i can start again and get the entire jeep, also removed the bumper corners, mirrors, and door cards. pretty much the only thing left to remove are the door handles.
Just spent the last couple hours in the garage running new speaker wire to my front doors and installing new speakers . I never would of imagined they would have been broke into so many different pieces ! Sounds 100 percent better now well worth the effort .
Just spent the last couple hours in the garage running new speaker wire to my front doors and installing new speakers . I never would of imagined they would have been broke into so many different pieces ! Sounds 100 percent better now well worth the effort .
In mine, the speakers only worked if the doors were closed, and sometimes if the driver's speaker didn't work after closing the door, hitting the lock switch (lock or unlock didn't matter) would make it work. Definitely needed new wiring. You should have no more speaker problems now.
I have a 99 XJ. And now has the front end off a 94, front passenger side door off a 96 front driver side door off a 98. What happens tomorrow? Only God knows!
Installed front and rear 2 inch recievers and replaced the fuel filter. The rear had a 3500lb 1 inch reciever but I wanted the 5k 2 inch since it may have to so recovery work. Was a direct swap with one extra bolt required per side.
The PO had left the hitch in the old reciever which had rusted it into place inside the reciever . Copious PB blaster and a mini sledge couldn't budge it. I even hook it to a tree and tried to yank it out and it would move then either.
Pretty sure it was the original 23 year old filter as it still had the Chrysler p/n stamped on it and had the same uniform layer of caked dirt the rest of the undercarriage has. It was also full of the nastiest brown liquid I'd ever seen come from a filter. Hopefully this will tackle be 12MPG I've been getting.
Spent way too long wrestling with motor mounts. Should have called a friend for a second set of hands but I kept telling myself “5 more minutes and I’ll be done”.
After the motor mounts threw in a trans mount and that helped tuck my transfer case back up a good bit.
I did did however hit or unplug a vacuum line as it had the CEL on after (first time since I’ve owned it). That sounds like a tomorrow project.
