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What did you do to your Cherokee today?

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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 09:23 PM
  #8671  
DortDizzle's Avatar
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From: West Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l IL6
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Bought U-Joints to put on it, super duty greaseable type from NAPA.

Figured out my binding issue, I have negative caster angle that is forcing my sway bar brackets into my steering. This would also prove difficult to drive, but it hasn't been out yet since the lift was installed.

Guy from Currie said not to run the dropped pitman arm with the CURRECTLYNC HD steering, seems strange to me, but we shall see what the track bar drag link angles have to say once I can get it fully aligned, and adjusted.
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 11:18 PM
  #8672  
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Albuquerque NM
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Replaced my heater core, it was a royal pain.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 12:40 AM
  #8673  
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From: steilacoom washington
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: striaght 6 4.0l
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found out that a bolt snap on the last spot of the bottom of the intake manifold
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 01:34 AM
  #8674  
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by kingkamodo
Not to sound arrogant, but you should read-up on motor oil ratings and what they mean. 10w-40 is fine as long as you let the engine warm up before beating the snot out of it. It ratings are good down to 10 degrees. If we all followed exactly what it says in our manuals, we would not have lifts, bigger tires, etc, etc......
x2 mine has ran in 30ish degree weather for a while on 10-40 and it hasnt blown up, siezed, made funny noises, knocked, ect yet. heck the lifters dont even tick yet

knock on wood
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 01:51 AM
  #8675  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0L HO
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I always let mine warm up before driving anywhere, even just a mile. Let the RPM drop to 650, then drive. The 4.0 runs hot, it only takes three minutes on a 25 degree morning to get up to that temp.
And even then, I wait for it to get to at least 150 before even thinking about hitting the gas any harder than it takes to go 0-50 in 30 seconds, all while laughing at the people who are behind me
Even then, from when I get on the road it only takes 10 minutes tops to get to 210, usually more like 6 or 7.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 09:02 AM
  #8676  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Year: 1987
Engine: Check
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Originally Posted by mrfajita
The 4.0 runs hot, it only takes three minutes on a 25 degree morning to get up to that temp.
What about in -25* temps?

Wisconsin winters are brutal. -25* isn't even the coldest it gets.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:42 PM
  #8677  
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From: Fort Collins, CO
Year: 1996
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
What about in -25* temps?

Wisconsin winters are brutal. -25* isn't even the coldest it gets.
I guess I will see this January when it gets into the -20 range.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #8678  
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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and i get upset when its positive 35 degrees

Originally Posted by mrfajita
I guess I will see this January when it gets into the -20 range.
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 04:46 PM
  #8679  
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Columbus, NC
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
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I started priming my 87 XJ Black today. Hopefully finish before bad weather gets here
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 05:27 PM
  #8680  
Morat's Avatar
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From: North Riding of Yorkshire, UK
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Picked her up after £1700 worth of fab and welding underneath to fix rust issues, replace rusty brake lines and new pads on the front brakes.

Ouch!
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Old Nov 18, 2010 | 11:41 PM
  #8681  
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From: Florida
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Put some lights on the front... took like an hour lol.


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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #8682  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Year: 1987
Engine: Check
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Last night I picked up an entire steering assy from pump to lines to box. (Thanks Pat aka JeepCoMJ) Got them for dirt cheap compared to what I would have paid from Advance auto.

I also got a shift ****, but when I got home I found out it is somehow too small to fit on my shifter. I think the PO destroyed the original **** and left on the metal gromet that the **** is built around. I hope this is the case, but if it is it looks like its gonna be a major pain to get the gromet to seperate. I also just realized I never hit it with blaster, which would have been the smart thing to do.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 01:48 PM
  #8683  
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From: North, Ga
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Scored a new axle with a Rustys offroad high steer kit and a arb locker. Ended up being the wrong gear set. Switched out the ring and pinion from my axle to the new one to find the arb locker has a broken $35 part and is also binding up. So ended up swapping everything back to stock axle. Started at 7pm and finished at 7am. All this work for a free axle all I had to do was cut out the welded spider gears on a xj and install unwelded spider gears.

Then when I got home to unload the axles my friend slid on the frosty grass into my shed and knocked over my 09 Suzuki DR-Z400

Last edited by MadMike; Nov 19, 2010 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 02:00 PM
  #8684  
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From: Jacksonville,fl
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I changed the t-stat. While doing that I found out that I had to change the t-stat housing also. Bought housing at Advanced Auto Parts, and installed it. Went to put the upper radiator hose back on, it would barely fit. The hose was hitting the head. Also the hose clamp would not go all the way down due to the same reason. Went to Napa, and got another housing. What do you know, it has the correct spacing to allow the hose and clamp to go on.
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Old Nov 19, 2010 | 02:54 PM
  #8685  
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 954
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From: New Waverly, Tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Used engine just put in less than 79kmiles onit jeepersCreepers 60mm TB, '99-'01 intake, BorlaHeader
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I have been beating on the pitman arm with a BFH all afternoon. And its not coming off.
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