NewKindOfClown

Again, depends on the trans and the transfer case. Always check the owner's manual

rcguymike

Temporarily retired the '99 XJ for the ’96 ZJ. Need monies for the XJ to continue, hoping to start the build process in the next couple months.

salad

Kind of. It's related to the pump. In most transmissions it's driven by the front half, ie the input shaft. Even with the transfer case in neutral, there's still rotation from hydraulic action. This causes the transmission rear half to turn without any oil pressure. No bueno. AX15 doesn't have a pump but has the same issues. It relies on splash lubrication from the countershaft. In neutral, the output shaft spin can spin, but won't get any oil from down below.

NP231 doesn't have this issue as the pump is driven off the main output shaft. With transfer case in Neutral and transmission in Park (or a gear), there's no movement in the transmission, and all moving parts in the NP231/NP242 are oiled.

rcguymike

Wow, I missed the comfort and power of the ZJ...I think I need to adjust my TV cable though. Other than that, smooth sailing on the XJ to ZJ transition.

rcguymike

Never thought about transfer cases needing this too...interesting!

NewKindOfClown

But there are different versions of the NP231. I'm not sure of the proper towing config for an XJ.

My '93 YJ does not have true Neutral on the transfer case. The N position disconnects the TC from the transmission, but it leaves the driveshafts tied together. If you use a tow dolly with a YJ and you don't remove the rear driveshaft, you're gonna have a bad time.

TJs (not sure if all, or just late model) have a true Neutral on the NP231 that allows the driveshafts to spin independently of one another. Tow dollies are okay for those, and you don't have to disconnect anything.

Again, I'm not sure where XJs stand

salad

Interesting. According to Novak, that's a "feature" that went along with the vacuum actuated system. So in XJs, as long as it's 1992 or newer there shouldn't be an issue... of course who knows what's been swapped in.

Ralph77

Well I cut my bumper caps to accommodate the tow hooks. I had a couple different tow hooks and eyelets but am going to stick with the factory ones with the big base. They are soaking in Evapo-Rust so I can POR 15 them. Also got my rear spoiler back on. See how long it stays on this time. If the double sided tape lets loose again I guess I will just have to drill next time and bolt it in. Now trying to figure out what I should do next to not waste what is left of a nice, but hot, day.

Basslicks

Best way to get double sided tape to stick is to clean both surfaces with soapy water, rinse, let dry, and then wow both surfaces down with denatured alcohol.

TwistedWrench

Wheeled it at Hidden Falls, had a ton of fun.




Aaaaand then the water pump gave out on the drive home. Ugh.

Bryar Creaser

I changed out all my dash lights, the light/dimmer switch, all my fuses, then I read up on wiring and looked up as to why I don't have dash lights and what I am supposed to do when my new stereo doesn't have illumination or dimmer cables.

Basslicks

Looks like fun man! Well... minus the water pump part... that blows.

Soooo..... did you get it all finished man?

TwistedWrench

It was, really cool. Badger did great, got through some spots I had my doubts about!

Lol, but apparently 281 was just asking too much of her...

Basslicks

HAHA! Yeah, that's a bit much!

Ralph77

I cleaned both the hatch and the spoiler. Let it dry. Used 3M 08984 General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, then 3M 06396 Automotive Adhesion Promoter on both the hatch and the spoiler. Then 3M 03614 Super Strength Molding Tape on the spoiler. Time will tell.