how do you steam clean a transmission?

 

Really hot water

 

Finally got around to installing a new fan shroud... again. Running temp is consistently 5 or so degrees cooler than where it has been; but it also hasn't been 100+ degrees out the past week either.

It's also been a while since I did a cooling system flush, and while my current coolant is amazingly still green, I added a half-bottle of flush to the system to start a pre-emptive, pre-winter cleaning.

 

 

He's talking about the outside. Get your head out of your writeup.




Bought some air tools to finally get some work done without it taking all day. Some cheap stuff, some good stuff.






More details in the thread.

 

I'm dealing with it again because for a long time there was a leak in the hatch that I puzzled over, but didn't have time to peel back the carpet & assess damage. Plus I'm pretty sure I didn't do it right the first time. I didn't know to search out all the tiny pinholes (which have now grown into rust spots). I used inferior spray paint with minimal coverage - this time I'm using the good stuff to treat/prime & top coat will be roll-on. And I have discovered that ALL the factory spot-welds are rusting, so be sure to sand all of them down & treat the area.

Oh - and I'm changing the rubber gasket around the hatch because it seem that this is the source of the leak. I can only hope ...

 

When I pulled the overhead console from the JY (like 2 years ago), I cut the harness about six inches from the body-side plug because I wasn't smart enough at the time to figure out how to get the plug through the space between the dashboard support and the body. I mean, I could do it now but at the time I just cut it. So this morning I soldered it back together and used heatshrink on the individual wires.

I think I pulled the OHC from a 99, and mine's a 98 so naturally the connector on the body side is different. 99 uses one big connector for the computer and the RKE, but 98 uses two smaller ones. I have a remote start, so I have no need of the RKE (plus I don't have any factory remotes). Next step is to remove the terminals from the connectors on both harnesses and then insert the 99 terminals into the 98 connector (C301, if you're interested).

After that, I'm going to take the "computer" portion of the console out and plug everything up just to make sure it works. Once I verify all that, I'll actually switch out the harnesses and install the console. I really, really don't want to cut into my headliner and THEN find out the computer is bad.

I do have a small concern that this whole effort may not work. See, ALL of my OBDII scanners (ScanGauge, Scantool OBDLink LX, and the cheapo $13 Bluetooth OBDII adapter) all have issues communicating with the jeep. The Scangauge will randomly turn off. The cheapo BT adapter will work for about 1-3 minutes and then freeze up. The OBDLink does the same if im using Torque, but if I use the ScanTool software its fine.

So my worry is that there's a short somewhere. Hopefully it's on the power line, but it might be one of the CCD Bus lines. If that's the case, the OHC computer probably won't work. Though, last night I was doing some research and it seems that if there was a problem on the CCD Bus, I would be seeing issues with the TCM and the gauges.

 

Did the same thing last week to my Jeep. Now don't they look a WHOLE lot better? Did you go with regular amber lights or LEDs?

 

Got to play AAA to my wife's car today. She went out and after one stop on her list of errands her Honda wouldn't start! So... I take off work, go by where the car was left, and it starts right up.... Then I go home get my wife, who decided to walk home 5-6 blocks, go to retrieve her car, and no start, dead! We jump it off and she makes it home to where I gut the alternator, and $130 later it's back to normal... I guess... So the XJ and I saved the day? I think....

 

You mean the ones under the leaf springs? Yeah, I don't know what the hell the previous owner was thinking. I'll have to do something about it. Been learning leaps and bounds since joining this forum but that right there gave me pause.

 

Yesterday and today I have been fighting the good fight against rust. Grinding, sanding, cutting... Rinse & repeat!

The worst offender, part of the rear passenger corner, has been sent to the next life.



Since (unfortunately) welding was not an option for me, I went with the next best thing: a one-two punch of JB Weld and fiberglass! It's not the prettiest fiberglass job, but if it holds and keeps the rust in retreat I'll be happy.



Lastly, I primed the rear cargo area. The next layer will be Al's Heat & Noise Reducer, which should arrive tomorrow. Thank God for Amazon Prime!

 

Pic of the rear cargo pan:

 

It looks shiny but you should know that that whole area is subject to stress. The XJ is unitized construction, don't be surprised when it cracks

 

[QUOTE=nando67;3298342]
You mean the ones under the leaf springs? Yeah, I don't know what the hell the previous owner was thinking. I'll have to do something about it. Been learning leaps and bounds since joining this forum but that right there gave me pause.

I had 1" tapered blocks on my old XJ at one point just to level her out. Didn't have any bad experiences with them. But we all start somewhere and build on and up from there.
Now a 2" plus block, I can see the stress and leverage that exerts on the spring.

 

Hmmm I didn't think of that. Thanks for the heads up, even if you did rain on my fiberglass parade.

You = Arnold: