What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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I dunno, man, I wouldn't be trusting myself let alone my kid with that...
Brackets look good, but those welds...from what I can see, I wouldn't run. That metal under there is VERY thin, and brittle. I just welded some cracks in my trans tunnel, and even with my machine on it's lowest setting, burned through super easy. Had to basically micro-second spot weld to get it to take, and it took a while, and looked like hell until I ground it down semi smooth. The cracks were from a DS that cut loose a few years back, and not structural...shock mounts, on the other hand...I highly suggest you rethink your approach.
Brackets look good, but those welds...from what I can see, I wouldn't run. That metal under there is VERY thin, and brittle. I just welded some cracks in my trans tunnel, and even with my machine on it's lowest setting, burned through super easy. Had to basically micro-second spot weld to get it to take, and it took a while, and looked like hell until I ground it down semi smooth. The cracks were from a DS that cut loose a few years back, and not structural...shock mounts, on the other hand...I highly suggest you rethink your approach.
The welding never burned through, I had the speed at 4.5 and the setting was at the second to hottest one. But, I'm going to take your advice to heart though, as soon as I can get to it I plan on cutting a piece and slipping it inside cross ways and welding it both to the bracket and the inner layer of metal that the shock actually bolts to just to be safe.. I am going to make a set for my rig some day when I change out my shocks.
Last edited by JandDGreens; 07-19-2016 at 10:21 PM.
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The welding never burned through, I had the speed at 4.5 and the setting was at the second to hottest one. But, I'm going to take your advice to heart though, as soon as I can get to it I plan on cutting a piece and slipping it inside cross ways and welding it both to the bracket and the inner layer of metal that the shock actually bolts to just to be safe.. I am going to make a set for my rig some day when I change out my shocks.
FWIW, like I said, the bracket looks stout...add a piece under it and utilize the original mount points, you have a solid base. Yes it is more work. But, work worth doing.
My old man taught me something a long time ago..."Do it right, or don't do it at all."
Wasn't trying to belittle you, and glad you see the light, LOL
No, I don't lick fish.
I changed the bulbs in my hid headlights hoping this would allow me to see at night
I put hid's in my 98 Cherokee a while back and they worked great. Had to install open beamed projectors of course. I had terrible service from the company and after a few months one of the ballasts went bad. So i bought a kit off Amazon by opt7 that are bi-xenon, 10k bulbs. Couldn't see the road at all. So i ordered some 6k bulbs thinking that the colour was the problem. It wasnt. Im at a loss now. Im using the same headlight housing and this kit came with a relay harness.
No, I don't lick fish.
I put hid's in my 98 Cherokee a while back and they worked great. Had to install open beamed projectors of course. I had terrible service from the company and after a few months one of the ballasts went bad. So i bought a kit off Amazon by opt7 that are bi-xenon, 10k bulbs. Couldn't see the road at all. So i ordered some 6k bulbs thinking that the colour was the problem. It wasnt. Im at a loss now. Im using the same headlight housing and this kit came with a relay harness.
https://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004H.../dp/B001P29X4G
40 bucks on amazon gets you HD wiring and relays which allow power to go straight from the battery, to the relay, to your headlights... instead of through tiny wiring - through a low-amperage switch - through more tiny wiring - and to your headlights.
Ditch the HIDs, go back to the OEM setup (or if you really want, H4 housings and a good set of Halogen bulbs), and upgrade the harness.... you'll be glad you did.
HIDs
OEM Sealed-Beams
Last edited by Basslicks; 07-20-2016 at 01:22 AM.
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Year: 1992
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Had HIDs in my 328is, and I will NEVER make that mistake again. They worked great, when they worked.
OEM is good, if you REALLY want to see at night like a modern car... Drop the heavy coin & get Trucklites. They're amazing.
OEM is good, if you REALLY want to see at night like a modern car... Drop the heavy coin & get Trucklites. They're amazing.
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Year: 1992
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Finished installing the new rear bumper and end caps on the '96 Sport, looks great.
Auto Zone, Quadratech, Jeep and the local Ace Hardware all "contributed" parts.
Thanks to all here for the recommendations on super penetrating oils.
Now to thoroughly clean, oil and filter change, fuel system cleaner...and go to get every-other-year emissions test.
Auto Zone, Quadratech, Jeep and the local Ace Hardware all "contributed" parts.
Thanks to all here for the recommendations on super penetrating oils.
Now to thoroughly clean, oil and filter change, fuel system cleaner...and go to get every-other-year emissions test.
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Year: 2000
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