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Welded nuts on the back of the coil bracket so I can install/remove the ignition coil without having to hold the nuts and screws at the same time.
Good idea.. The time it took to weld it was probably less than reinstalling without welding.. That is a frustrating job to say the lease.. I lost a nut last time. Didn't land on the ground and no amount of looking or poking around with the magnet could find it..
Attempted to fix my leaky rear brake line. Turns out it was leaking right at the rear axle brake hose fitting. I made up a patch line several inches long to install with a union, no problems there but my flaring tool is slipping on the XJ's original brake line. This is a nice flaring set with individual dies, not a $20 Harbor Freight cheapie, first time I've had this problem. (Will try to borrow another double flaring tool tomorrow, or maybe buy one if I can't borrow. I have to work outside and there won't be much more good weather. At least the line didn't give out in the dead of winter!)
I also swapped out the original idiot-light instrument cluster for full instruments, with blue LEDs installed. Worked out nice! Slightly purplish, but looks nice and brightness seems about right. Of course the odometer mileage is now off so I noted the difference in my service log for the vehicle - just have to add a measly 132,000 miles to get the true mileage!
Left side done right side still needs to be drilled out what a pita
looks easier than mine. Apparently their are 2 different yokes on the Chrysler 8.25 and only one can be drilled out for ubolts. I drilled mine out only to find that they didn't fit. So I had to remove carrier replace yoke, crush leave and all that mess.
looks easier than mine. Apparently their are 2 different yokes on the Chrysler 8.25 and only one can be drilled out for ubolts. I drilled mine out only to find that they didn't fit. So I had to remove carrier replace yoke, crush leave and all that mess.
I didn't know that, I just drilled out the too I could and put the ubolt in so I don't lose it, the other side won't bite and when it does the pit slips into the lower spots on the sides
I didn't know that, I just drilled out the too I could and put the ubolt in so I don't lose it, the other side won't bite and when it does the pit slips into the lower spots on the sides
wait,,so, you just did the same think did? Lol. The ubolt goes on but the nut won't fit on the back?
wait,,so, you just did the same think did? Lol. The ubolt goes on but the nut won't fit on the back?
Nope mine fits on the back, at least with out the ujoint. It's a 97+ rear end just not original to the jeep. If I pull that nut off and pull out the yoke will it mess up the gears? Cause that'll make life a lot easier
New shoes arrived today,,will be putting them on this weekend. I have a manual tire changer and will be running airsoft for balance. I will never go back to lead weights again after running airsoft in the 32's.. new 33-12.5-15 VVVVV
Finally got around to fixing the rust spot I found on the frame last week. It wasn't as big as I thought it would be, guess I caught it early enough.
Made a patch out of the 10 gauge steel I had laying around
Held it in place with the factory jack
And welded it in place. Yes I cut my scores on the wrong side, and this was the only piece of 10 gauge I had that was big enough so I just welded over the score marks for good measure.
Not the pretiest welds I know, but it is solidly in place and I didn't set anything on fire, including myself I do think I need to invest in a good set of welding sleeves or a welding coat before the next time I do any overhead welding.
Now to go spray some undercoating on it and call the jeep work done for the day. Next week new control arm bushings
Lucky! Me like! Get that guy into Krown before the salt flies...
Nope mine fits on the back, at least with out the ujoint. It's a 97+ rear end just not original to the jeep. If I pull that nut off and pull out the yoke will it mess up the gears? Cause that'll make life a lot easier
if it's a Chrysler 8.25, than yea. Their is a crush sleeve for the bearing preload. Don't remove the pinion nut unless you plan on completely removing the carrier and replacing crush sleeve. I not sure about the Dana 35 though.
This is a nice flaring set with individual dies, not a $20 Harbor Freight cheapie, first time I've had this problem. (Will try to borrow another double flaring tool tomorrow, or maybe buy one if I can't borrow. I have to work outside and there won't be much more good weather. At least the line didn't give out in the dead of winter!)
I do think I need to invest in a good set of welding sleeves or a welding coat before the next time I do any overhead welding.