Looks like it could be a good rig man! Don't give up on her!

Progress! always good.

Cleaned and painted my junk yard D44

What paint did you use?

Started disconnecting linkage on the J10's transmission so I can replace a seal that's leaking more than a quart of Dex every night. Finally got good weather, and it's being a real pain. Gonna have to continue tomorrow since it's dark

Rustolium hammer paint. Its what i had laying around.

nice. I used black enamel on mine

Lemme get that mower....

not mine. I rebuilt the axle at a friend's garage last winter

Did you use JB weld? Ross will understand....

[QUOTE=XJwonders;3152127]nice. I used black enamel on mine



looks good! I couldn't help but notice that your garage looks almost identicle to mine, multiple bikes, riding mower, fuel cans, yard tools. lol. Cant wait til I build a shed for all that stuff next spring and get my garage back!

Rigged up a simplified heater control valve and tested it. Basically its a 3/4 normally open vacuum valve, with an H shaped bypass valve before it. Normally coolant goes straight through the H and the valve into the core and back out the 5/8 return. When I move the slider to cold the HVAC head unit activates vacuum and closes the valve which makes the bypass to the 5/8 return the path of least resistance.







Seems to work alright in limited testing, so I will go buy some better parts for the H bypass and test it over the winter.

Ditch all that crap and adjust your blend air door.........

My blend door works like its supposed to

Then you don't need a valve.

Thanks to djb383 for this:

One thing you may want to consider is removing/eliminating the heater control valve, if you haven't already. '96 down have the HCV, '97 up the Factory eliminated it.

During the warm months, with a HCV, (temp lever/**** never moved off cold) coolant sits and stagnates inside the heater core.....There's no fresh coolant/corrosion protection circulation through the heater core.

With the HCV removed/eliminated, coolant/corrosion protection flows through the heater core constantly when the motor is running, regardless of where the temp lever/**** is set.

Also, you don't have to remember to turn/slide the heat lever/**** when flushing/re-filling the cooling system because coolant is flowing to/through the heater core when the motor is running and the HCV is absent.

Be sure to plug/cap the small vacuum hose when eliminating the HCV.

From me:

HCV Removal



The heat is controlled by the blend air door. I've eliminated at least 10 of them here in Arizona and my AC always works perfectly.

Actual field experience has proven time and time again, by numerous different people, that there is NO downside to eliminating the HCV..

It flat works. Period.

The other benefits are keeping coolant flowing versus being stagnant in the heater core and the dangers/disastrous results of having a valve fail unexpectedly whether you're poking around the engine bay or driving down the highway or trail.


Also from me:

Why is it that those of you who HAVEN'T done something are telling us that HAVE done something, that it doesn't work the way we have experienced by actually HAVING done it?