What did you do to your Cherokee today?
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Sparks, Nv
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Combustible bomb?!?
They're strong, but there are issues with backspacing, hub diameter, and, most notable, width. Could you use one on your Jeep? Maybe. That depends on a lot of factors unique to your rig.
But even if everything else was fine, they're "For trailer use only." Even if all the physical variables worked for you, you'd better hope your insurance company doesn't find out about them.
But even if everything else was fine, they're "For trailer use only." Even if all the physical variables worked for you, you'd better hope your insurance company doesn't find out about them.
I'm not sure the older trailer wheels were any different than the stock jeep/ford wheels of the same vintage.
We live way out in the hills so sometimes when you have a flat, you want a spare spare for driving to town to get the flat fixed.
I guess I just need to jack it up sometime and see if one of my old spare wheels will fit. I would like to replace the honeycomb alloy wheels with some generic (modern!) steel wheels anyway.
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
What did you do to your cherokee today?
In the 50s, that may have been true. But back then they were using bias ply tires that we're tall and narrow because of manual steering. 6" and sometimes even 5" wide wheels were common at that time. That hasn't been the case for a couple decades.
Yeah, but an old 8.25-15 would be a lot better than walking
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Location: Southern Maryland
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
CF Veteran
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Found out one of the local junkyards is allowing u-pull access now, so grabbed a ZJ center console armrest for $10
Life of Luxury
Life of Luxury
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Location: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
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Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
...and if you look at those pics they are all slightly different from each other. Some are extremely different. I want the same type of wheel I currently have with the proper back spacing.
Also I said I have been looking for several years. Let me add that it has been a very casual search. I look in the salvage yards when I go and peruse CL for them on occasion. I'll find it.
Also I said I have been looking for several years. Let me add that it has been a very casual search. I look in the salvage yards when I go and peruse CL for them on occasion. I'll find it.
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
I changed my tie rod to a beefier ZJ version. Steering is much tighter now and it looks way beefier in person. Direct bolt in and a real easy job.
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In the headset man! Perhaps one day, but for now I want to swap it and get rid of the D35.
Nice, the drag link is the same on XJs but the tie rod is a significant improvement, i did the swap months ago and have had no issues.
Nice, the drag link is the same on XJs but the tie rod is a significant improvement, i did the swap months ago and have had no issues.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Did a bit of work this weekend on the pile of parts in my garage. Mostly building my suspension brackets, sorting out my rear brake line mount and breather, lots of measuring, and got my HD Offroad frame stiffeners and three link brackets the other day.
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 XJ
Fixed my liftgate strut issues.
I decided to finish what I started. My liftgate was starting to have issues on the passenger side because the ball stud was pushing the sheet metal out of whack and starting to face the front of my XJ.
I drilled several holes next to the stud, next to the gap that was created by the ball stud bending the metal. I was able to get a screw driver in there and I was able to pry out the stud and nut. I hammered the metal flat and in to allow clearance for the nut when I reinstalled it. I also painted the exposed metal for protection.
I bought some medium thick flat strap from Home Depot and cut a 3.5 inch piece off of it. The old ball stud is fairly soft metal. Use a Torx bit or put Vise Grips on the stud shoulder that butts up against the mounting metal face. I then drilled a hole for the stud and bolted it into the new piece and painted it.
I stuck it up where I wanted it and marked where I wanted the Rivet holes. You really only need holes on the edge that faces the lifgate because there is always forward preasure on the plate. Drilled the holes in the plate off of the XJ on top of a piece of wood, then held the plate back up where I wanted to mount it and drilled a hole into my XJ's sheet metal, popped in a rivet and it held it in place while did the other 2 holes. I did the drivers side plate 4 years ago and it is still solid as a rock and is also when I replaced the struts I bought at Autozone. They are very good quality, they have held up in temps of -30 to temps of +118. It raises all by itself and actually has a lot of tension on it when you close it, they are very strong struts.
I drilled several holes next to the stud, next to the gap that was created by the ball stud bending the metal. I was able to get a screw driver in there and I was able to pry out the stud and nut. I hammered the metal flat and in to allow clearance for the nut when I reinstalled it. I also painted the exposed metal for protection.
I bought some medium thick flat strap from Home Depot and cut a 3.5 inch piece off of it. The old ball stud is fairly soft metal. Use a Torx bit or put Vise Grips on the stud shoulder that butts up against the mounting metal face. I then drilled a hole for the stud and bolted it into the new piece and painted it.
I stuck it up where I wanted it and marked where I wanted the Rivet holes. You really only need holes on the edge that faces the lifgate because there is always forward preasure on the plate. Drilled the holes in the plate off of the XJ on top of a piece of wood, then held the plate back up where I wanted to mount it and drilled a hole into my XJ's sheet metal, popped in a rivet and it held it in place while did the other 2 holes. I did the drivers side plate 4 years ago and it is still solid as a rock and is also when I replaced the struts I bought at Autozone. They are very good quality, they have held up in temps of -30 to temps of +118. It raises all by itself and actually has a lot of tension on it when you close it, they are very strong struts.
Last edited by Modrod; 04-21-2015 at 04:13 AM. Reason: My text didn't show up