So I've decided to keep my Xj full body. I stretched the rear 10" when I 4linked. I moved my gas tank into the cab and ran cross bars for my shock mounts (air shocks)above gas tank area. So the very back cargo area is basically non existent. I removed the back seats( mainly due to tuning the air shocks to one set weight) and have plenty of storage there. I made my own wheel wells and brought them all the way into the plated "frame rails". My question is do you guys think it would help to strengthen the unibody significantly. I figure if I'm not gonna load stuff in thru the hatch why have it seperate
I don't have a cage and probably won't cage it. When and if I roll it I'll take the insurance money (stated value) and it's buggy time
Oooooh and don't pay attention to the duct tape---I've got a couple areas to finish weld but before I finished I said f-it I'm going wheeling and there was some deep water where I was going .


And a flex shot for just for fun

 

Sure, why not.

Why not just go ahead and make it buggy time?

 

I'm sick of working on it for a while (big jobs). Over the last year and a half. Full widths boat sided and then stretch airshock and linked. I have been and am going to just drive it like I stole it (redneck style).
By buggy time I mean an actual buggy. I've got it insured for 12k ( and they will cover it if I roll it down a mountain from a "off road trail". I make the insurance company wright me a email stating so each year. So I'd take that $$ and part out rest and buy a buggy some one has 80% finished. So I can go crazy (44-47's rockwells-rear steer blah blah and drive it up a trail on its side)

 

sweet rig!
I think this should be move to chat since there is no actual fab going on...yet

 

Sure I don't care if it gets moved. But I don't know how too

 

It'll move shortly, it was reported an hour ago.

 

What are the rest of the specs? Links? Very well done sir.

 

You got more pics of the set up i the rear and specs?

And yea sure weld it shut or just rip it off.

 

X2, you should do a build

 

Awsome rig! Do you open the hatch to add fuel? If not, remove the hatch and build a tire rack for the spare tire somewhat inside going 45°

 

Heres some specs :
Full width 44hp 5:13 arb w chromo and histeer
Full width 9" big bearing 5:13 spool
Stretched the rear 10"
Single triangulated 4 link.
Sway away 2.0 16" airshocks ( my air shocks give me 31" droop)
1.5" 250 wall upper tube
2" 250 wall Dom lower tube

Just cut and pasted from balistic fabrication order sheet
I'll never ever order from them again.!!! Took 4 months to get my shiznit!
Uppers
RE-913 XM-14 7/8" CrMo rod end w/ kevlar liner *
Thread Hand: Right Hand Thread

Lowers
BJ-675-26SOLID Forged Chromoly 2.63" Ballistic Joint
Bearing thru hole: 5/8"
Stud diameter / Thread Pitch: 1.25"- 12 tpi
Thread direction: Left hand thread
Nylatron Race: Billet (solid)

This is before I made the wheel wells bigger but during original suspension cycling

 

I do open rear to fuel cause I've been to lazy to build filled mount. But I'd do that first. I'll probably use one from a yj.
I think it will stiffen up the rear unibody and will probably weld hatch.
Since I hav no rear seat I'm in process of turning rear floor boards into tool boxes and the spare 36 irok easily goes in thru rear doors. So I'll build a 45' mount off rear shock tower crossbar in side leaning back from floor board area.

 

holy ****

 

Ooh yeah thanks for props on my heep. I'm about as nice to it as O.J. was to Nicole

 

Haha fna good one


Where in colorado do you take her "for a joy ride?" Haha