I'd just like to say that I've met some tough bolts in my time but NEVER have I met one as evil and immovable as the forward most facing wheel hub flange ,12pointed 13mm sucker that took me an entire day to break free yesterday. I suppose 350,000+ miles will cause these to seat pretty well - not to mention 22winters - but just....Damn!
Use anti seize on these if you ever replace . That's all. The bolt nearly beat me into submission but I won. Wax melted on it after heating flange around it permitted movement. Not before 1deep ,impact socket and 3 ( one forged) box wrenches were destroyed .

 

Yeah, I had to battle one like that. Took a long time. Glad you got it done.

 

You da man! Most would have given up!

 

thanks, guys!
Now for the other side...

 

Had the same problem on my 01. Top hub bolt was rusted in. The"clearance" hole was solid around the bolt. I had the grind the top ear of the hub off so I could get the hub out of the way. I ground the head of the bolt off. Used a drill to drill the rest of the bolt out and to get all the crap out of the clearance hole. Bought a new bolt from Lowe's and called it a day.I what a pain.

 

Yep. I actually cut the bearing apart and ground the triangle flange apart and drove the bolts out from the wheel side once.

Yep. Very few things get put back on my XJ without anti-sieze. I'm on my 3rd bottle now. I even sprung for the fancy Copper Permatex this time.

 

I did mine a few months ago (both sides). Took wheels and calipers off and had PB Blaster sprayed on each evening for most of the week and then did it on the weekend. Still took breaker bar and pipe to get them off but they did come off. If you've never used PB Blaster, just try it. There's no comparison as far as I know. Up here, rust is on everything and I've got the shock bolts, spring eye bolts, bumper bolts etc off with this stuff. But you do need to leave it on to soak in and sometimes you don't want to wait that long. Always work smarter and not harder.

As Diskman says, always put anti-seize on everything before you put it back on.
Good Luck.

 

Beat that bolt in submission.

 

 

( Moved to chat )

 

I went STRAIGHT for my torch and PB Blaster before I even touched the bolts - mine were really rusty and hadn't been removed in 18 years. 2-3 heating + PB Blastering cycles before I turned any of the bolts.

Luckily it came out without any major issues

 

Being in Virginia Beach, we don't get a lot of corrosion from road salt. I did leaf springs on my 90 last night in maybe an hour. Bolts zipped right out. Did the wheel bearings in about an hour. Bolts zipped right out. This has been the easiest vehicle for me to work on.

 

But think of all the swear words that went unsaid and the stories of victory that went untold!!!

Up here, after 3-4 years the nuts look pretty rusted on my springs and shocks that I replaced. I did anti-seize them so hopefully they will still come off when needed.

 

I've worked on cars from the north that gave me hell. My 79 Camaro spent 5 years or so parked in a farmer's field... It was a joy to tear down the first time.

 

I suppose I feel fortunate. I've never had a single issue with those bolts.

13mm box end wrench and a 3 foot cheater bar makes quick work of them.

Front leaf spring bolts, on the other hand, have tried to kill me in the past.