Well I sort of scored yesterday evening after work.
A good friend of mine genuinely needed a little cash for good reasons, pretty much just a strike of bad luck at the wrong time of the year.

Anyway, he put a 6.5" RCX x series or flex series, what ever it's called, lift on an xj ab 3 years ago then took it off and still had it laying around, offered it to me for $100 and I purchased it.
I ended up with the pair of coils
Pair of leafs
f***ed up track bar
track bar bracket
Pair of lower control arms.

He said the heim end threads kept pulling out of the track bar so he attempted to weld it.
The lower arms are in good shape, flex joints are nice and tight.
He's looking for the upper control arms.
I may or may not use any of it, going for 4.5" and had planned on a mixture of rustys and RE parts with HD no lift shackle relocation brackets.

Other than that, every xj I've attempted to purchase has been a scam or no reply so patiently searching.

 

Keep being patient... the right one will come along.

RCX is Rough Country I believe, at the end you mention RE and that stand for Rubicon Express.

Try to find Adjustable upper Arms.

I would look into the IRO (Iron Rock Offroad) double sheer trackbar and bracket.... and sell the bracket you have.... or.... I have a IRO Bracket and would love to sell the Rough Country Adjustable trackbar I got with some used IRO Heavy Duty Steering I bought (honestly get the IRO trackbar)

If you have the spring for 6.5" you may just want to go that high, if not trade them for some decent 4.5" springs.

Good luck on your continued search!

 

Well I looked at this one today.
I was pressed for time so I didn't drive it.
I know the fella pretty decent he was straight up with me on it.
Engine has a knock sound up high near the firewall.
Sounds like it's coming from the rocker area.
Has a 3" lift purchased from rocky road.com.
Pretty worn 33x12.50 bfg's.
Inside looks like new, small dent on pass. Side door and rear hatch won't open.

Frame looks great around the track bar and gear box.
It's a 97 model and has 229,000 miles will let me have it for $1500.
From what I've looked at, rebuilding the engine doesn't cost too much $$$.
I'm going to give it some time to see what else comes up.
Am going to drive it and see how the rest of it is though.
I know it has the 1 year only trans but is there any other things to consider with the 97 model? It was man in 12/96.

 

I would love to see the VW I had a few when I was A teen, great off road cars

 

It looks like its been wheeled fairly hard, tires are shot, motor is shot, and I bet if you drive it you will here a bunch of squeaks and rattles. With a bad motor I would not pay over $1000 - face it all you are really getting with it beyond a stock one is a no-name lift kit

I bought the blue one a 2000 with a blown motor 131K, BRAND NEW Tuff Country 3.5" lift kit on it 2 weeks before motor was blown, body and interior was in excellent condition paid $1250

Then the black one also a 2000 with 175K, again a blown motor and wheel wells cut up and a little trail rash, it had almost new 33" Goodyear MTR's, aftermarket F&R D-Ring Bumpers, Rock Sliders, (was suppose to have a locker in the back - even jacked it up and checked (but it was welded) Paid $1500

 

I've had and have several but I have never been smart enough to take any glamour shots.
I only take pics of them when I have them in the shop.
Please excuse my messy shop, too.

These are all the same car






Different car:




Well here's a finished one:



Sandrail

 

You're right on the no name lift, it's just a 3" spacer, 1.5 lift shackle and 1.5 block and costs the same as a RE 3" system with AAL.

I do want something that needs a little less work.
Although it is super clean on the underside, not too clean though like it's been cleaned.
There was absolutely no rust either.
Putting an engine in it doesn't bother me, honestly the only thing that makes it a deal breaker is the roll on bedliner paint job.
I absolutely hate that ***** even on an atv.
It wasn't prepped right and is peeling in several areas but where it does stick is pretty much irreversible.

 

A stock one.

 

+1. I have a set of Notch flares as well, but have only installed the fronts at present.

On stock XJ coils and 31" Duratracs there is more than enough fender clearance. I am currently on Moog CC782 coils ($66/pr at Amazon) and Dorman 729-301 leafs ($94 ea at Summit) which are replacement springs for the optional "Upcountry" XJ suspension. These springs give 1.5-2" of lift over regular XJ springs and the Notch Customs flares have easily enough clearance for 33's. And with such a small lift you eliminate all the monkeying around with driveline vibrations.

Be aware that an XJ with stock 6cyl gearing (3.55) will be a gutless pig on 33's.

 

^^^^^gutless pig might b a bit exgerrated.....have yet to install gears on mine and climbs n drives fine...I will b gearing it very soon 4.56's
Ps happy birthday jesus

 

...depends on your frame of reference. This is by far the slowest vehicle I own; I'm wishing I would've found a front axle from a 4-banger and re-geared an 8.25 to 4:10's. That would be perfect w/these 31's.


Hehehe. I ain't THAT kinda Jesus.

 

Get an XJ. I have both an XJ and a ZJ, my XJ has had very little mechanical work done to it. Very stout vehicle. My ZJ on the other hand.. I would love to get rid of it. Chrysler trans are junk and it's just a nightmare to work on IMO.

 

Well I hate to be this guy as a lover of XJs but... I've owned all 3 vehicles you're considering and I have to say for your needs I think a WJ would be smart and perfect.

Here's why..
-WJ's ride amazing for solid axle vehicles, ZJ's not so much and XJs lol.
-If it's going to be a moderate trail rig and more of an Offroad family truckster, WJ fits that bill better on shear roominess compared to an XJ.
-WJs are much safer then XJs overall
-WJs are easier and cheaper to lift then ZJs as the suspension is less pieces, i.e. no rear trac-bar bar, no 4x control arms etc.
-WJ Special Editions are Laredos that are optioned out like Limiteds but are predominantly 4.0L powered (LTDs are 4.7L V8s mostly). Special Edition also gets you a Laredos single climate control over a LTDs dual, as those are beyond known to **** the bed due to horrible blend doors design. On the flipside you can also find Laredo base models with 4.7L V8s and Select-Trac transfer cases if you'd like a V8.
-The rear disc brakes, power steering pump, and beefy steering you'll want to put in your XJ you'll already have factory
-WJs tow really well
-Newer, less of a chance of rust or stupid high miles
-Cheap to buy, not much harder to fix or acquire parts for

If you go this route do yourself a favor and look for 2002-2004 WJs. They are less prone to stupidity and have a few extra incentives i.e. Trannies in the V8s got the extra kick down gear (simply put it's a 4 speed auto with 5 "gears" for downshifting), a wider selection of models, and the 2004s only have a slightly different and better look to the front of them, round fog lights instead of rectangular and the grill is different.

This is my 03 WJ Limited with a 4.7L V8 that has 256k on it, a 242HD T-Case from a V8 Laredo, 4" IRO kit with 285s for tires. It's great for camping, and is optioned the hell out, leather, sunroof, factory NAV/10 disc, heated seats, even pedal adjust...






Don't get me wrong, I love my XJs and will forever, but the price of WJs is right, and they are kick ***. Don't believe the crap you hear about WJs being so much more Chrysler then XJs. Chrysler bought Jeep in the late 80's and has been fiddling ever since. The 97+ XJs and especially the 00-01 XJs are ChryCo all the way

 

Picked these up for $150.
15x10, 3.75" backspacing.
Unfortunately, they are simulated beadlocks.
But I saved a few $$$ by buying them.
Being tax season, quite a few cherokee have been coming up for sale.
Lots of really Clean, low mile 2wd's but they have mostly been 4 cyl/ 5 speed models :/.
If not that, then they've been a little too far off.

 

I'm not sure what I'll end up with.
Xj's are Definately getting some age on them.
Alot are old and tired and need lots of attention.
The few I've looked at with lower miles have had really clean bodies and interiors but have alot of leaks from just sitting up, seals stay cold and rubber just forms to shape, once worked alot of dry rot leaks start coming out.
Like I looked at 96 with 116,xxx miles, really super clean but needed seals and gaskets all over.
It was 2wd with the 4.0 for $3500.
Another was clean with 122,xxx miles but was parked outside and had a strong mildew smell to it, I figured some of the weather stripping was leaking and allowing water in the cab area somewhere, without opening the doors and driving it much, the rust was probably plentiful.

I'm considering either buying an xj and working my way through it rebuilding everything while it sits is my shop.
I don't have a ton of disposable $$$$ but I could work my way through the engine, trans, t-case and both axles plus all related parts in ab 3-4 years time.
It wouldn't be much fun but it's the way I have to do things.

Or maybe a wj is the way to go.
Something from 2002- 2004 may be better to start with.
The looks are alot better than the zj.
I just prefer a simpler engine/ trans management system, the more sensors they have the more plugs which = corrosion and bad connections when dipping it in the water quite often, which is hard to avoid when hitting the trails around here.
I will figure it out.