That looks like a GREAT start.

PS: I always use Black Satin Spray Paint to paint my flares and bumper ends, I use flat on the bumper metal parts.

 

Looks like a good start if it checks out.

 

Well that must've been a good deal, it's gone already.
Will keep looking I suppose.
Maybe one in a better color will come along.
Found a really clean 99 2 door xj but I think it would be more Hassel and mud mess with the children climbing in and out.

 

The good ones don't last long.

 

Checking to see if this one is even real, bit of a drive but I think it would serve me well.
96 with 89,000 miles makes me think it sat up for awhile.

http://http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/cto/5332834695.html

http:// http://texarkana.craigslist.org/cto/5330761685.html
Listed in two different locations about 5 hours apart, seems fishy.

 

Links not working, too many http's

try this http://batonrouge.craigslist.org/cto/5332834695.html

And yes that ad just smells very fishy, guessing a fake ad, and you will get something like this, "I am in the military and must sell the jeep before shipping off, we can do this through a third party company, you deposit the money and I will ship the vehicle, and once you get the vehicle you call the third party company to release the funds)

 

Well, short sob story and then needing alot of my info so we can do the deal though ebay.
I'm not willing to gamble 1500 so guess that isn't my new Jeep.
They attached an imgur album to the email, lots of pics that jeep is really really clean such a teaser!

 

Don't be sad, IT WAS A SCAM !!!!! 99.9% Sure.

 

I found an xj but it has a 2.8 (IIRC) v6 and a manual transmission.
The engine, trans & transfer case are removed from it but included, engine supposedly freshly rebuilt.
Asking price is 800

Is the v6 a decent engine, or if I bought it for parts would anything interchange to a xj with the 4.0 ?

 

Sounds like a lot of work, plus you can't test drive it. The 4.0 is a much better engine.

 

Wait for a 4.0 it took me almost 4 mo. to find my 99 XJ as I knew the exact year I wanted and looked a several dozen in 3 states before I bought mine. I drove out of state not to far and bought mine, it ran ok but I trailered it home anyway because it had no tags or insurance.


Take your time you will end up with a better XJ and deal.

 

A good tool set.

 

My Order of Favorite/Suggested XJ's, MY OPINION ONLY - not meaning to offend anyone. (My personal preference all comes down to the more modern interior layouts of the 97-01 XJ's)

• 98-99 Does not have the prone to crack 0331 head like later models , Dana 30HP "High Pinion" up front (vs. Dana 30 LP - Low Pinion) - HP is about 30% stronger and better driveline angles, but I prefer coil ignition like on 00-01 - although for the typical buyer the 98-99 is what I suggest, I actually prefer the 00-01 with swapped older motor and HP front axle
• 00-01 I prefer Coils over distributors, buy with blown motors cheap -0331 head cracking - and install 96-99 motor with header (to fit over bigger exhaust ports) - throw in a Dana 30HP front axle for $100 and have spare shafts out of your old LP
• 97 The AW4 transmission is a 1 year only, although you can rewire an older transmission to work, a few quirks being first year of the new style.
• 96-91.5 If you like the older interiors they are great, I really like the more modern interior of the 97 and newer myself, mid 96 and older will have the weaker 27 spline 8.25 rear end vs. new 29 spline (or all years may have a weak Dana 35), some older models will have the vacuum disconnect Dana 30 front axles which can be a problem (and an asset if replaced with a cable engagement) - 96 and older tend to run a bit cheaper to buy !!!!

Some things to be aware and maybe avoid on later models, none are real deal killers as you can resolve the issue with most of them, just be away of them.

• Antilock brakes, because it almost always means you have a Dana 35 in back and they are weaker. and Antilocks are one more thing to go bad.
  
• Avoid Dana 35 rear axle that is available I think in just about any year.
  
• Security Key (grey key with a chip), one more thing to go wrong and it can be expensive to get new keys cut, cheapest way is to take title to dealership (or proof of ownership) and get the code (Free vs. $75 for locksmith) for a locksmith to program and cut key ($40 vs. $150-200 at dealership), some places can clone the code, but if its battery goes dead on a clone key the key becomes useless to start the jeep - it will still unlock doors.
  
• 231 vs. 242 transfercase (a 242 can be identified by having "Full Time" and "Part Time" 4x4 options), 242 is actually a bit stronger but does not have any SYE bolt on choices, they do offer a "hack-n-tap" SYE and a company and two can do a SYE Conversion -So what is SYE "Slip Yoke Eliminator" you know when you slip your driveshaft on to the tailshaft of a transmission or transfercase, that is a slip yoke - the problem is they tend to shorten the driveshaft from ujoint to ujoint putting it at a steeper angle when lifted.... increasing your chances for driveline vibrations (then there is the whole double cardan shaft thing when using an SYE talk for another day) - another SYE advantage is now the same spare driveshaft can be used front and back normally - in short a 242 is not a deal killer, just be aware of it having less aftermarket support as the 231
  
• All Cherokee's tend to run hot in stop and go or hot tempatures, so first thing should be checking the cooling system, heck I might even thrown in a $100 new radiator (or more expensive upgraded one), and thermostat and fresh antifreeze for good measure, many vent their hoods, hi-flow waterpumps, or upgrade fans, etc. to keep their XJ's cool

The Jeep Cherokee XJ WIKI is an excellent read if you are shopping for an XJ and curious what differed by the years. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Cherokee_(XJ)
.
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I don't mind waiting on a good xj, I was just thinking if most of the parts are interchangeable, then for 800 I could use it for parts.
The wiki article cleared alot of that up, being it's an 84 model I'll pass on it.
It is a really good read btw I will use it for future reference.
As far as a good tool set, I have a very well equipped shop, 30 years worh of tool collection, two post lift, mounter & balancer, etc...
Used to do auto work on the side.

Thanks for the tip on the cooling system, I always to a rather extensive 100,000 mile service on my vehicles and I plan to do all that stuff to the xj when I find it.
I've been reading this forum every evening, been learning lots of good stuff and necessary upgrades.
This is my next one to inquire about:
http://jackson.craigslist.org/cto/5350374407.html

 

Constantine,

Just remember the 00-01 are prone to crack the head (read up on 0331 cylinder head), sometimes you can see it through the Oil fill plug on the valve cover. $1400 is a fair price, and I typically can find 96-99 motors for $250-350, you will need an aftermarket header to make it work ($130 on eBay)... and some brackets made for the coil, then your usual oil, antifreeze, etc.

Otherwise that one looks pretty decent and relatively low miles. Reminds me of my daughters 2000 we just sold to build a trail rig for her (another 2000 - just beat up more).